91" SkyWing ARS 300 Assembly Thread

AKNick said:

Time to talk about the powerplant! GP76 !!
Same bolt pattern as the DA60 which is marked on the firewall for drilling which is a bonus. Very excited to try out this twin!
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Marked the DA-60 holes. I’ll need to check my standoffs for prop clearance. Appears to be 7” firewall to spinner backplate.

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Here is the GP76 3-View Drawings: HERE

Click to expand...

Looks like nice engine is it your first from this manufacturer. Twins are always much nicer to work with smooth and they just sound better.

AKNick said:

Time to talk about the powerplant! GP76 !!
Same bolt pattern as the DA60 which is marked on the firewall for drilling which is a bonus. Very excited to try out this twin!
View attachment 111489
View attachment 111491

Marked the DA-60 holes. I’ll need to check my standoffs for prop clearance. Appears to be 7” firewall to spinner backplate.

View attachment 111490


Here is the GP76 3-View Drawings: HERE

Click to expand...

Are you going to split the cowl because you have twin. On all my planes if I have a twin and the cowl is not split I will go through the work of making it a split cowl, it is worth the effort. It makes life so much easier to install and work on.

Honestly I don’t think I will split it. I’d like that option, but for me it may be just too much work and I’d like it in the air by October....

I’ve come across a couple bumps. They sent me two of the same landing gear cuffs, and one set of ball links do not go in strait. Tim has ball links in stock, and said he was out of stock on the cuffs. No big deal there. I can fly without them for a while.

Sounds like the DA60 Blazing star mount will be the correct length for the GP standoff. I’ll have to be sure before I spend the cash on it. I think it’s only 1” and I need more than that I’m pretty sure.

Finished up my tail wheel. I lied about the last of the epoxy ha ha. Just a dab O.K.!!!
Scuffed up and made a few notches for the epoxy to bite into. The hole shape matches the flats on the ball link... clever. It is bottomless so excess epoxy will fall into the void FYI.



I’ve been trying a little trick out I’ve developed. Cut a piece of fuel tubing and slide it over the ball link to keep it from vibrating around like this:




There isn’t any room for an Allen key to tighten the screw, so either do this before or use pliers like I did.

Snoopy1 said:

Looks like nice engine is it your first from this manufacturer. Twins are always much nicer to work with smooth and they just sound better.

Click to expand...

It’s my first GP, and other than the baby RCGF21T it’s my first real twin. It’s also my first 70cc. Until the Timber I have never owned anything over 35cc.

Put the axels and wheels on. Note how the axel is stepped and super neat. I added the washer behind the nut.

AKNick said:

There isn’t any room for an Allen key to tighten the screw, so either do this before or use pliers like I did.

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Click to expand...

Well I lied again. Ha ha, full deflection rudder you can access the top of the little screw... my bad

Put some snakeskin looming on the elevator servos and screwed them in place. The looming is from TDRC... if you haven’t heard they are closing



I’m running out of 1/4” heat shrink tubing with adhesive... need to go to the store and try and find some more... meanwhile an order online is coming.

Something about long runs of wire to the tail and 22AWG just bugged me. So 20AWG from Hanson hobbies to the rescue. I’m crazy... I know. Brushless servos are very efficient. But it made my mind rest easy for some silly reason...


so BEHOLD!! Hours of measuring, crimping, heat shrinking and routing presents....The geeky blue trifecta wire color coded luminous extraordinaire!



Check out these grommets in the tail. Saweet!!!!

Looking good!