Scale 20cc Edge 540 Profile “The Glitter”

Snoopy1 said:

@AKNick do not follow your last statement. Cover the fuselage and then add the tube, what tube. What gaps are being filled with the micro ballon epoxy, is it around the tube? Are you adding a small tube for the wires?

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Hmmm. The fuselage carbon tube. put a hole in the side of it, run the wires inside of the fuselage tube. To minimize the size of the hole, delete the servo extension connectors and solder the wires. un-pin the servo wires from the connector that goes into the RX and it will come out another hole in the front. The tube will still be plenty strong in my opinion. everything else on the plane will break before that does.

Gaps are the round fuselage tube meeting up with the square balsa fuselage frame.

The area between the tube and balsa is already filled. Made from 1/4 triangle and then made 5/8 diameter sanding block and sanded a radius into the 1/4 triangle and glued it in for extra support from the tube to the fuselage. So I will have to contemplate the hole .

@BalsaDust did some math and the number I came up with is 1.64 degrees so I will use 2 degrees close enough for balsa wood. Do you agree with the number.

AKNick said:

I just drilled a hole in my mojo 40's tube. If it's strength you're worried about, take the connectors off the servo pins, and solder your extensions, pull it all through a small hole that just fits the servo wires.
I'd cover the fuse, then add the tube personally. Add micro balloons to the epoxy when filling up the gaps.

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The 20cc has larger birds build different. Tube is glued in while building.

Snoopy1 said:

@AKNick do not follow your last statement. Cover the fuselage and then add the tube, what tube. What gaps are being filled with the micro ballon epoxy, is it around the tube? Are you adding a small tube for the wires?

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On the smaller profiles we normally don’t glue the tube in until final assembly as they have a one piece wing and the tube needs to go through it. Thus we cover the fuse then glue the tube in.

Snoopy1 said:

Ok @BalsaDust you are going to be scratching your head but I am different. What I need from you is the precise angle between the top and bottom spar. What I like to do is make the shear webs exactly to the correct size and angle then I use them to set the ribs square and at the correct distance apart.

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Snoopy1 said:

@BalsaDust did some math and the number I came up with is 1.64 degrees so I will use 2 degrees close enough for balsa wood. Do you agree with the number.

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Not sure I follow what your trying to do. For me with sheer webs I just use a piece of 3” wide 1/16” balsa. After wing is rough framed just hold it on the main spars against the rib and trace the spare at top and bottom. Then a quick cut and glue it in. No need for it to span completely between each rib either. Make them all butt to the inner most rib except for the last bay in the wing. Make it butt to the tip rib.

Snoopy1 said:

That’s a good idea. Thanks. Do you cover the tube with Ultracote or do cover up to tube. And leave the tube as is

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On mine the tube is exposed. The carbon tube was installed after the covering was applied.

Thanks for the help and support.

And instead of nine wires going through just use two for power and three for signal, a lot less weight and a smaller hole.

Ahh yes I forgot my input about the servo wires. One option for sure is going in the tube but yes it weakens in a bit. Another option like mike said is just to tape them which is what I normally end up doing. Last option but it makes things very difficult if you ever need to replace a wire it to cut some holes in the vertical braces in the fuse. Then you can install your servo extensions before covering. Might not be the best option though as I gather you are planning to use transparent covering. Honestly though routing them in the tube is a decent option. It does weaken it some but even so if you hit something hard enough to break it where the holes are drilled your gonna have lots of other repairs to deal with as well.

acerc said:

And instead of nine wires going through just use two for power and three for signal, a lot less weight and a smaller hole.

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@Snoopy1 You could try to use XBus with that new radio you got too.

acerc said:

And instead of nine wires going through just use two for power and three for signal, a lot less weight and a smaller hole.[/QUOTE

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AKNick said:

@Snoopy1 You could try to use XBus with that new radio you got too.

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Fantastic did not even think of that and yes you are correct only one wire to the back. Have to start thinking like the new radio still have the old system in my head.