• If you are new to GiantScaleNews.com, please register, introduce yourself, and make yourself at home.

    We're 1st in Giant Scale RC because we've got the best membership on the internet! Take a look around and don't forget to register to get all of the benefits of GSN membership!

    Welcome!

Timber 110" Twin Build

RC80AK

50cc
Can you break the sharp corners a little Wonder how it will change the look.
I'm limited on the corner radius with how the nose is being constructed. I'll unroll the surfaces off the 3D shape and cut them on the CNC out of light ply. They panels will bend to meet and form the nose with some bulkheads. I can nip the corner off the plywood edge, but can't get into the glue joint.
 

AKNick

640cc Uber Pimp
I’d be surprised if you hit 22. Your gear legs are much lighter along with the tires. Your short nose and the motors are further aft than my gas motor which will help your CG. I have 6oz in the tail!

To get a more aerodynamic nose you would have to get a block of balsa and start carving. Or make a mold and glass it. I like how your setup looks. I can’t think of a configuration that looks better! If anything it would be along the lines of the IconA5 nose just deeper with a couple NACA scoops on the bottom.
 

RC80AK

50cc
I’d be surprised if you hit 22. Your gear legs are much lighter along with the tires. Your short nose and the motors are further aft than my gas motor which will help your CG. I have 6oz in the tail!

To get a more aerodynamic nose you would have to get a block of balsa and start carving. Or make a mold and glass it. I like how your setup looks. I can’t think of a configuration that looks better! If anything it would be along the lines of the IconA5 nose just deeper with a couple NACA scoops on the bottom.
I've hand made molds and a fiberglass cowl for a composites class. It was a blast, but very time consuming. With the CNC the capability of milling molds opens up a lot of possibilities. For now this is a method that I used on the Ultra Stick. It assembles fast, covers easy, and wouldn't be hard to quickly replicate if it gets damaged. I use a 1/4" light plywood and then pocket it out leaving a skeleton structure. The pocketed areas leaves 1/16" thick skin. It's surprisingly light and everything slips together and self aligns. (if you do it right:)) That's one big advantage with the CNC router over a laser cutter; the ability to pocket out parts.
IMG_9582.jpeg
IMG_9594.jpeg
IMG_1207.jpeg
 

RC80AK

50cc
I’d be surprised if you hit 22. Your gear legs are much lighter along with the tires. Your short nose and the motors are further aft than my gas motor which will help your CG. I have 6oz in the tail!

To get a more aerodynamic nose you would have to get a block of balsa and start carving. Or make a mold and glass it. I like how your setup looks. I can’t think of a configuration that looks better! If anything it would be along the lines of the IconA5 nose just deeper with a couple NACA scoops on the bottom.
That's good to hear on the weight. Even with my welded mount the entire power setup will be a little lighter than the 55.
 

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
@RC80AK can you do me a favour. Flying my Timber at the moment and would like not pull the balsa block off until the new gear is made. On your drawing the four M4 bolts are shower quit a bit off center to the gear is that correct. Can you also check the 0.070 and the 5.23 inch dimensions. Thanks for the help in advance.
 

RC80AK

50cc
@RC80AK can you do me a favour. Flying my Timber at the moment and would like not pull the balsa block off until the new gear is made. On your drawing the four M4 bolts are shower quit a bit off center to the gear is that correct. Can you also check the 0.070 and the 5.23 inch dimensions. Thanks for the help in advance.
.7 and 5.23 are correct for my plane, not sure about variation from the factory. Also 1.6” was a close fit inside my slot, I just wanted all the width I could get. It might rub a little.
 

Attachments

  • F68259D9-46AB-479E-9F87-D6B1A456B7D7.jpeg
    F68259D9-46AB-479E-9F87-D6B1A456B7D7.jpeg
    3.1 MB · Views: 315

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
.7 and 5.23 are correct for my plane, not sure about variation from the factory. Also 1.6” was a close fit inside my slot, I just wanted all the width I could get. It might rub a little.
Thanks for that the 1.6 inches is dead on and everything else just the off set to the four mounting bolts to the front seems strange. Thanks again. Just waiting for the aluminum to show up due to the virus you cannot pick up anything it all needs to be sent to your home.
 
Last edited:

RC80AK

50cc
Thanks for that the 1.6 inches is dead on and everything else just the off set to the four mounting bolts to the front seems strange. Thanks again. Just waiting for the aluminum to show up due to the virus you cannot pick up anything it all needs to sent to your home.
On my plane the stock gear is quite a bit narrower than the fuselage mounting slot and it's mounted at the rear. The mount holes in the fuselage slot are also offset to the rear. I wanted all the width possible, so I used the full slot and expanded forward. That's why the mount holes look strange on the wider gear.
 

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
Sorry hope I not being a nuisance, looking at your gear you have a nice small chamfer on the legs how did you do it.
 

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
On my plane the stock gear is quite a bit narrower than the fuselage mounting slot and it's mounted at the rear. The mount holes in the fuselage slot are also offset to the rear. I wanted all the width possible, so I used the full slot and expanded forward. That's why the mount holes look strange on the wider gear.
I agree with what you did and I am going to do the same need all the width possible to maximize the strength.
 
Top