IMAC Double Build, Carden Pro 124" Extra 300 40%

[orthobird]

I have never flown one of these before, and never have built one of these before. I have seen these fly at contests, and have always wondered how they fly. This is my impetus for doing this. I have heard, that they fly very well and have had the opportunity to read a significant amount of information on these build threads about them, to take the plunge. I contacted the gentleman whom provides these kits, and found that, with the few communications with him and his wife, he is a wonderful person and extremely willing to help and answer questions. I find him, extremely dedicated to the hobby and not only that, but to the advancement in the designs and building of our airplanes, that we all love so much. For this, I believe he is an outstanding person.
Being that this will be the 1st time I build one of these, I will take my time. Building two, side by side, will take time, and hopefully, much more trialing, than error, as I will measure once, twice, three times, and then a 4th, 5th, and 6th time before I glue anything on. One of the airplanes will have the shorter motor-box and the other one, the longer motor box. The airplane with the shorter motor box, will have a quad motor installed, possibly a ZDZ 224, if the supplier in the USA is able to sell me one. The other airplane, with the longer motor box, will have a twin, of sorts installed. Currently, I have two twins that could be used, a 150 cc and a 170 cc version. Alternatively, I may put in a 2 cylinder that has a 180 cc output, or even 210 cc twin.

looking at the options for the long motor box, a motor that is 150 cc sized may weigh 7.25 pounds. the 170 cc sized motor will weigh 7.85 pounds, the 180 cc twin will weigh 7.71 pounds, and the 210 cc twin will weigh 10.8 pounds.

looking at the options for the shorter motor box airplane, the 200 cc quad weighs 10.25 pounds and the 224 quad weighs 10 pounds.

SO far, not much has been done, at this time, I am looking into the different power-plants, and the different build threads to get ideas. I am also looking into different covering schemes.

If anyone has any suggestions, please do not hesitate to provide, as I am doing this mostly to have a great time with you all.

Additionally, the gentleman whom sold me the kits has given me sound advice, and I will follow it. I will build both as stock as possible. There will be no coring of the wings/stabs/or rudder.
The only modification, possibly, will be that instead of using balsa for the cross braces between the right and left fuselage sides, I may use carbon fiber sticks.

I will also be writing down the steps before I initiate the build thread, so that I can return to it for reference. Usually, in the morning and evening, I will read the manual multiple times, before I move on to the next step, and then I do research on the multitude of build threads out there. Once I research it, then I will travel out the back of the house, and into the shop, to execute the procedure. Very long and methodical process, but this will be the only way I can do this, with no assistance. Wish me luck...

 

[Alky6]

Wooohoooo! I am in! Holding us in suspense on the kit builder. he, he, he.

 

[tl3]

Hey Cam,
Having built several of these for myself, and others, if you have any questions on the particulars of the construction please feel free to email me.
t

 

[ericrs]

I will definitely be following this thread!

 

[orthobird]

Thank you TY, I am definitely going to take you up on the offer. I will probably PM you, if you do not mind, before I do a step I cannot understand!!

 

[orthobird]

Everyone loves pictures! Here are some....

The majority of the motor-box was adhered using this glue. For these two motor-boxes, I have used 1 and 1/4 tubes of these.

Here are both motor boxes. One is long and the other is short.
these were built according to the manual:

1. Build the Motor Box with Epoxy.

A. Predrill F-1 for preferred Engine mounting method.

B. Install Center Shelf and Picture Frame Former at F-2, to one Motor Box Side.

C. Install Forward, Center and Aft Tunnel Support Formers.

D. Install F-1. (the firewall)

E. Cut and install 1/2" x ½” Hardwood at F1.

F. Cut and install a 3/8” sq. Balsa Stringer o the inside surface of the Box Side. Cut for 45 degree miter to Back Plate Cross Brace. (See Top view Plan)

G. Install second Box Side.

H. Cut and install 1/2" x ½” Hardwood at F-1 and 3/8” sq. Balsa Stringer to second Box Side.

I. Install Box Back Plate and 3/8” sq. Balsa Cross Brace.

J. Install Box Top Plate.

K. Install Box Bottom Plate and 3/8” sq. Balsa at Box Sides.

L. Cut and install ½” x ½” Hardwood from rear of L.G. Mount to Picture Frame Former at F-2.

M. Install LG. Mount

side by side comparison of the length,. These kits are extremely well manufactured. All of the wood in the kits is top shelf stuff. very impressive. The cut plywood is also extremely accurate and everything keys in perfect.

Holes to lighten the firewall made using different sized Forstner bits.

the motorbox on the left of this picture is the short one. DO not know which motor I will get, but I drilled two sets of small holes (1/8") for either the DA 200 or the ZDZ 224. As I stated earlier, do not know If I can get a ZDZ quad, but I will try! Weighs the same or slightly less than a DA 200, and has a considerable difference in the power. SO should be fun!!!

Trying to read the manual, several times, I was able to understand the requirement of the use of the 3/8" balsa stringers for the motorbox in several areas. The top of the motorbox, towards the rear, requires a Mitre cut 45 degree angle. All of this joined nicely. I used Titebond on the balsa to the plywood, but otw, everything else was Hysol.

The bottom plate is adhered, but again, requires the use of 3/8 balsa supports in the inside of the box. These right and left balsa supports are cut at 45 degrees and key in well.

 

[orthobird]

Wooohoooo! I am in! Holding us in suspense on the kit builder. he, he, he.

LOL!! It is Mr. Dennis..

 

[Notorious B.E.N.]

Nice CAM, I'm looking forward to hearing how they compare to the Dalton!

Also interested in your take on the ZDZ 224!

 

[WMcNabb]

Awesome!! Watching this one closely.

I've always wanted to build one since I met the man long ago when he first started his business in Boca.

 

[orthobird]

Here is the instructions for building the fuselage:
1. Build the motor box with epoxy.
A. Pre-drill F1 for preferred engine mounting. this requires you to place F1 on the plans, and identify the lines that take into account the thrust. this will change if you use a long or short motor-box.
B. Install center shelf and Picture frame Former at F2, to one motor box side. You must know which part of the motor-box is up vs. down.
C. Install Foreward, Center, and Aft Tunnel Support Formers.
D. Install F1, take into account the top and bottom and left to right. Before doing so, you should pre-drill the firewall (F1).
E. Cut and Install the 1/2" by 1/2" hardwood behind F1. This will be used to pin the Firewall.
F. Cut and install a 3/8" balsa stringer (not the red tipped ones) to the inside surface of the box side. Cut for 45 degree miter to the back plate cross brace.
G. Install the 2nd Box side.
H. Cut and Install 1/2" by 1/2" hardwood at F1 and 3/8" square balsa stringer to the other box side.
I. Install box back plate with the 3/8" square balsa cross brace stringer. (these have the 45 degree miter cut at both ends.)
J. Install Box top plate.
K. Install box bottom plate and 3/8" square balsa at box sides.
L. Cut and Install 1/2" by 1/2" hardwood from rear of LG mount to picture frame former at F2, make sure it is flush with the edge.
M. Install the Landing gear mount.
N. Drill and install the 3 per side of 1/8" dowels on each side of the motor box.
O. Install F2 at both sides of the motor box.

2. Drill four holes in the landing gear per the pilot holes in the LG mount.

3. Cut the 1 & 1/2" diameter socket to 12 & 1/8" for installation in the fuselage. trial fit the socket. check and adjust if necessary for a square fit./ Socket installation will take place in step # 9

4. build Truss sides over the plans. Install the FUSE SOCKET SUPPORTS. We line up the socket hole over the plans and mark the truss sides for an accurate installation. Using the socket support as a guide, mark the socket hole on the 1/8" Balsa Fuse Side. Cut the socket hole in the 1/8" balsa using a circular saw or dremel. Properly position and glue the 1/8" BALSA FUSE SIDE to the Truss. Trial fit the motor box and fuse sides upside down over the Top View Plan. Line up the motor box, so that F-2 matches the top view plan. Make sure to position the motor box so that the top plate hangs over the front of the building board so the Box can sit level with the fuse sides. Sand the taper on the front and back edge of the Fuse Side to match the plans. The next 3 steps need to be done in this position, over the plans.

5. Taper and Install F-6 first. Install F2, F5, F4, and F3 in order, using 5 minute epoxy.

6. Cut and install cross braces to the fuselage. (fuse top side first)

7. Cut and Install cross braces to the fuse bottom side.

8. Install the tail gear mount and tail gear at this time.

9. trial fit the Fuse socket and each wing panel. Adjust for proper alignment and a flush fit to the fuse side. Install the Fuse socket for the wing.

10. Cut a 1/4" diameter holes in the 1/8" balsa fuse sides at the Anti-rotation screw locations. Slide each wing panel into position at 0 degrees incidence and mark the 1/4" hole on the Foam wing root from the inside of the fuselage. Center drill the 8-32 blind nut hole in the 1/4" by 1&1/2" by 1 & 1/2" Ply Wing Mount Pad. Center over the mark on the foam wing root and relieve the wing root for each flush fitting Wing Mount Pad. Install the Wing Mount Pads to the balsa Root Cap. We screw the 8-32 into the blind nut until it is flush with the flange, add a dab of Vaseline and epoxy the pad and root cap in place. Set each wing panel at 0 degrees incidence. Center drill for an 8-32 screw and temporarily install one 3/8" by 1" by 1" wing mount pad from inside the fuselage with no glue. Install the second wing mount pad pad with epoxy. When cured, remove the first pad and install with epoxy. Drill and install 1/8" by 1" by 2 & 5/8" ply cover plate to transfer the load to the 3/8" square vertical braces.


11. Trial fit the 7/8” Dia. Fuse Socket. Slide the Horizontal Stab halts onto the Tube and check for proper alignment with the Fuse as well as the Wing Panels. Adjust the Fuse Socket position as needed and glue in place. install the ¼” x 1” x 1 & 1/2" Ply Stab inserts. Cut the Retainer Screw Hard Points from ½” Dia. x 2 & ½” Dowel Stock, and locate 7” from the Root Cap, centered on the Tube. Mark and carefully cut Skin and Foam away with a #11 X-Acto blade to allow the ½” Dia. Dowel to seat against the Tube Socket. Pre-dril and install a 6-32 Blind Nut in this Dowel. Install a 6-32 Screw until it is flush with the bottom. Add a dab of Vaseline and install with Epoxy. Remove screw and sand dowel flush to the surface. Center the Tube in the Fuse and mark with a ballpoint pen so it can be easily and accurately replaced. With the Panels in place, Drill and Tap the Tube Socket and Tube for a 6-32 x 3/4” screw. Set the Stab at 0° incidence.


NOTE: Carefully sand the 3/16” thick base on the L-Brackets to the proper angle to fit flush with the Anti-Rotation Bracket pad in each Stab half.


12. Install the Bottom Deck Front and Bottom Deck Rear, and ¼” Crossgrain Balsa at the Motor Box bottom. Sand the ¼” Motor Box bottom to match the contour of the Bottom Deck.


13. Trial fit the Top Rear Deck. Add Balsa End Caps and size to the proper length. Install the Fin and Top Rear Deck.