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Help With Motor Timing and Poor Throttle Response (Gecko 120HV)

AKfreak

150cc
Hye guys I am almost ready to fly my new plane but I have a few little items to address be I do. I have a ZTW Gecko Opto 120HV and the MotrolFly 4330 215kv swinging a 20x8W XOAR prop

Can you tell me what timing the 4330 likes the best, because I do have a tiny bit of cogging off throttle. Speaking of throttle, I can actually go full throttle and pull it back to 1/4 without gaining too much speed on the prop. To say the throttle response is a little soft is an understatement. Timing is set to Auto, Braking Off, Start Strength is 30%, Cutoff is 3.00V 60%. I want to set my endpoints manually.

I am used to Castle where I manually set the throttle endpoints. Also my 85 Gecko on the 4315 is extremely responsive, and I think I set up the 120 the same way.


So close, but I need a little help. Thanks, AKf
 

3dNater

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
I can't comment as I have not had that esc before... I'm sure someone will help you out soon though :D
 

gyro

GSN Contributor
Hye guys I am almost ready to fly my new plane but I have a few little items to address be I do. I have a ZTW Gecko Opto 120HV and the MotrolFly 4330 215kv swinging a 20x8W XOAR prop

Can you tell me what timing the 4330 likes the best, because I do have a tiny bit of cogging off throttle. Speaking of throttle, I can actually go full throttle and pull it back to 1/4 without gaining too much speed on the prop. To say the throttle response is a little soft is an understatement. Timing is set to Auto, Braking Off, Start Strength is 30%, Cutoff is 3.00V 60%. I want to set my endpoints manually.

I am used to Castle where I manually set the throttle endpoints. Also my 85 Gecko on the 4315 is extremely responsive, and I think I set up the 120 the same way.


So close, but I need a little help. Thanks, AKf

DEFINITELY Leave the ESC on auto timing.

I personally like 20% startup strength a little better.

Go into the transmitter and max your endpoints on your throttle (150%)

Take out any subtrim on the throttle channel.

Move your throttle to high position.

Plug in the ESC.

After two beeps move the throttle to low.

Two more beeps and then the ESC arms.

Program a throttle cut, and when you "engage" the switch, have enough throttle input setup to make the motor spin. This will
keep your prop from stopping in flight, so your ESC will never lose timing sync, and the spool up will be faster.

Go fly, you're ESC will now have the full resolution capable from your radio, and you should notice you have much more control of your throttle response.
 

AKfreak

150cc
Wow, thanks for such detailed instructions. A question on the, "Throttle Cut". I do not have that on any of my electric planes. Is that necessary, I assume that is a safety feature that I might need to reconsider. Besides safety, is there any other benefit to a throttle cut on an airplane?

As to the bit of cogging at very slow RPM's, I will see if there is any change after the ESC has been properly set up.

Thanks very much Gyro. I greatly apprictae your help on this.
 

AKfreak

150cc
I did exactly as you said, and while it is much better, it's not as crisp as I like or I am used to. Is there a way to tighten up the throttle response above setting the endpoints at start up? I haven't use the programmer via the PC, does this open up other options?
 

3dNater

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
[MENTION=3014]AKfreak[/MENTION] it could be that your spool up speed is related to your prop load. Without seeing what it is doing in person it is impossible for me to know, but keep in mind the difference in the prop size between your smaller birds and this one.

The throttle cut is just to keep the motor spinning. I always do the same thing but sometimes will just use throttle trim to get the prop moving at the lowest rpm the esc will do so I don't lose sync. Losing sync is a very ugly thing and has caused crashes for me. I do this on all of my electric planes regardless of size. putting it on a switch i.e. throttle cut is a much more elegant solution.
 

gyro

GSN Contributor
Wow, thanks for such detailed instructions. A question on the, "Throttle Cut". I do not have that on any of my electric planes. Is that necessary, I assume that is a safety feature that I might need to reconsider. Besides safety, is there any other benefit to a throttle cut on an airplane?

As to the bit of cogging at very slow RPM's, I will see if there is any change after the ESC has been properly set up.

Thanks very much Gyro. I greatly apprictae your help on this.

The biggest benefit is that since the motor is always spinning, your much less likely to loose sync as 3dnater said. I do this on all my electrics as well. On an Airboss ESC it's almost necessary.
The fringe benefit is not accidentally bumping to throttle when you put your radio down to turn off or disconnect the battery.
 

AKfreak

150cc
So you want the prop to remain spinning even if the throttle is at the lowest position. It's for that reason, you need to use a throttle cut to shut things down when on the ground?

I guess I need to learn how to set up a throttle kill on my plane. With my gasser it was easy, I used the gear channel for the ignition (opti kill) so there was no curves or endpoint adjustment.
 

3dNater

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
On the gasser subject... have you set a high and low idle? Highly recommended! What tx are you using?
 

3dNater

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
My hitec radio has functions built in for idle down and throttle cut. Look through your menus. It might already be there... you may just have to assign it to a switch.
 
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