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Scale Wendell Hostetler 30% Piper Cherokee Glass Fuselage Build.

TonyHallo

TonyHallo

640cc Uber Pimp
Just thinking out loud the acrylic enamel paint I used was cheap but possibly heavier than aircraft paint. I may use Aerothane or Ranthane on the next one. For the white I used a white sealer and the plane was covered in one coat, I left a bunch of orange peel that could been flowed out on a second coat, the orange peel was color sanded and compound polished. I have a note on the wings stating painted 16.5 ounces but I'm sure just what I said!
The starter adds weight, probably 8 ounces considering the battery and controller.
The redundancy bus adds weight guessing 4 ounces but It allowed the receivers to be moved outside the carbon fuselage.
The full interior and dash adds weight.
At the end of the day just build as lite as you can and hope for the best!
 
Snoopy1

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
Thanks for doing all that weight and WQL stuff it really helps when I am doing stuff and building . Nice to compare notes to see what everyone is doing.
I agree just build as light as you can and you end up with what ever it ends up being. My big Taylor Craft also was a big struggle to keep the weight down. Some time in the future a may try to take some weight out but for now it flys good and it is what it is.
 
Snoopy1

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
A WQL of 10.5 in your opinion is that high for a scale built plane. My older planes from the eighties and early nineties were in that range they flew great but you had to keep the speed up and they were all 60 to 90 size planes like Ultrasport planes of the era.
 
TonyHallo

TonyHallo

640cc Uber Pimp
I'll find out soon! Right now I had to take the engine out of the Super Cub to replace the front bearings, had a dead stick and hit the nose after landing, the engine seemed stiffer and rather than rub it again, decided to take it apart and inspect. I'll post some photos over in the engine forum of the internals.
 
TonyHallo

TonyHallo

640cc Uber Pimp
It has been a while, still pecking away. There is quite a bit mounted to the firewall, throttle, choke, and nosewheel servos, ignition module, and the AT-V1 sensor hub. The starter speed controller is mounted to the epoxy glass cooling baffle. The back side is just as bad. Getting ready for the final weight and balance check. Hopefully the batteries will land inside the cabin area at former F2.
Left to do;
Final throw setting.
Set stabilizer directions, it is turned off but who knows, that bit me on the last build.
Make two battery leads.
Take it to the field and test run and ground check the radio, three receivers so three separate ground checks, engine off, engine on.
Maiden!!!

IMG_4612.jpeg
 
TonyHallo

TonyHallo

640cc Uber Pimp
One thing I forgot to mention was the crap trap for the crankcase vent. The Roto 85's run on 2% oil premix and they make a mess without a crap trap. The oil goes in red and comes out coal black. This Saito requires a 5% premix so I'm expecting a bigger mess.
Using an 8 ounce Nalgene rectangular bottle, the cap is fitted with a 5/32" perforated tube surrounded with steel wool, this is vented to the outside of the plane, the inlet effluent enters the side need the top and is directed downward. The crap traps on the Roto engines are opposite, the effluent enters the top with a long tube near the bottom of bottle filled with steel wool and vented on the side near the top. Hoping this works as good as others.


IMG_4613.jpeg
 
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Snoopy1

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
TonyHallo said:
One thing I forgot to mention was the crap trap for the crankcase vent. The Roto 85's run on 2% oil premix and they make a mess without a crap trap. The oil goes in red and comes out coal black. This Saito requires a 5% premix so I'm expecting a bigger mess.
Using an 8 ounce Nalgene rectangular bottle, the cap is fitted with a 5/32" perforated tube surrounded with steel wool, this is vented to the outside of the plane, the inlet effluent enters the side need the top and is directed downward. The crap traps on the Roto engines are opposite, the effluent enters the top with a long tube near the bottom of bottle filled with steel wool and vented on the side near the top. Hoping this works as good as others.


View attachment 124972
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This is very interesting to me I need all the help I can get for the Kolm engine I need an oil trap. But did not quite understand what they meant and how to build one. What I understood was just a small 4oz plastic bottle filled with cotton wool and the 2 drain lines run into the bottle, and that it needs to be emptied once in a while. Could you go into the design a little deeper and also why you are using steel wool.
 
TonyHallo

TonyHallo

640cc Uber Pimp
I believe the cotton tubes need replaced, once they are soaked with oil they are no longer effective.
I'm using the steel wool as a coalescent media, I made the first trap for the Champ before I learned about the cotton and it works. Aeroscale sells a trap with a bag of cotton tubes that supposedly last a season, my ounce 8 bottle would never last a season, I empty it every time the cowl is removed. To empty it I remove the bottle, unscrew the lid and set it upside down in a garbage can for an hour, then put it back together.
It the photo above there is a 5/32" brass tube soldered to the outlet nipple on the cap. The tube is drill with 20 3/32" holes. The 3/4" aluminum tube is drilled with 16 1/8" holes is slid over the 5/32" tube and the annular space is filled with steel wool, the aluminum tube is capped with a washer that is held in place by crimping the 5/32" tube shut. I would have just made another crap trap like I used before but I wanted the line from the engine to drain with gravity so the inlet nipple needed placed lower on the bottle.
 
Snoopy1

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
TonyHallo said:
I believe the cotton tubes need replaced, once they are soaked with oil they are no longer effective.
I'm using the steel wool as a coalescent media, I made the first trap for the Champ before I learned about the cotton and it works. Aeroscale sells a trap with a bag of cotton tubes that supposedly last a season, my ounce 8 bottle would never last a season, I empty it every time the cowl is removed. To empty it I remove the bottle, unscrew the lid and set it upside down in a garbage can for an hour, then put it back together.
It the photo above there is a 5/32" brass tube soldered to the outlet nipple on the cap. The tube is drill with 20 3/32" holes. The 3/4" aluminum tube is drilled with 16 1/8" holes is slid over the 5/32" tube and the annular space is filled with steel wool, the aluminum tube is capped with a washer that is held in place by crimping the 5/32" tube shut. I would have just made another crap trap like I used before but I wanted the line from the engine to drain with gravity so the inlet nipple needed placed lower on the bottle.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the description that helped.
 
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