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Scale Don Smith P-51 Mustang

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
To fill gaps I use a feather light speckle filler from Lowe’s or any other retailer.
Glass cloth do the fuselage with one sheet and the stabs with one sheet. On the stabs I will cut a straight edge with a roller blade on the table then epoxy the edge to the trailing edge wrap it around to trailing edge again and make sure the edges are wet. Let it cure just enough so that it easy cut and finish off the edges. Somethings are difficult to explain. Buy the way remember you can really work the cloth into any form you want yes take your time just keep pulling and dabbing with a brush and it will take the shape.
 

acerc

640cc Uber Pimp
Well I am going to throw a method I use in to this mix. I use Stits Poly Lite fabric, for a wing I would glue the bottom T/E then wrap the wing and glue the Top T/E, trim the ends to cup over and glue them down top over bottom, then shrink the fabric to a drum tight fit, then brush on finishing resin thinned about 40% and squeegee off. If using a large diameter based cup or pan the epoxy will give a good four hours to get worked in and wiped off. Then I start the prime and sand, prime and sand.
I prefer the polyester fabric over glass because it has just a tad bit of flex to it when finished unlike glass. And a good epoxy as well as paint will have that tad bit of flex ability. I started this way many years ago when I was into warbirds because of the hairline cracks the glass finishes would get from stress.
It worked for me, others results may differ.
 

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
Well I am going to throw a method I use in to this mix. I use Stits Poly Lite fabric, for a wing I would glue the bottom T/E then wrap the wing and glue the Top T/E, trim the ends to cup over and glue them down top over bottom, then shrink the fabric to a drum tight fit, then brush on finishing resin thinned about 40% and squeegee off. If using a large diameter based cup or pan the epoxy will give a good four hours to get worked in and wiped off. Then I start the prime and sand, prime and sand.
I prefer the polyester fabric over glass because it has just a tad bit of flex to it when finished unlike glass. And a good epoxy as well as paint will have that tad bit of flex ability. I started this way many years ago when I was into warbirds because of the hairline cracks the glass finishes would get from stress.
It worked for me, others results may differ.
Wow Acerc you sure have some interesting methods. Have never thought or heard of this method before. But I must say it is very interesting and makes a lot of sense. Stits lite is if I am not mistaken about 1.9 oz /sq-ft. So it will add a little weight. But if the weave fills better or takes less that would be a plus. You have caused me do a lot of thinking. Only one this method can only be done a sheeted area. Like it when I get chance I will have to make some small experiments some time.
One thing is for sure it will be bulletproof.
 

49dimes

Damn I'm hungry
Probably get that from like Wally-World or Home Depot Kelly? How light is it?

Yep but your best chance of it being in stock is Lowe's or Ace Hardware. It is much lighter than sheet rock mud but not as light as Balsa Rite filler. You could add some micro balloons to the mix and get it like balsa right. It's a vinyl based product and can take many different coatings albeit acrylic, poly,enamel or butylene-nitrate's.
 

stangflyer

I like 'em "BIG"!
You gents are awesome. I appreciate all the input. I think when I actually get to the glassing, I'll have more of an idea of how I will proceed. David, I appreciate the offer on the spray gun. However it just so happens that my son just bought a complete setup and we're going to try it out on a couple of projects before the big mustang. I hope it all works out well. If not, I'll send the Mustang to you for painting. LOL
 

acerc

640cc Uber Pimp
Wow Acerc you sure have some interesting methods. Have never thought or heard of this method before. But I must say it is very interesting and makes a lot of sense. Stits lite is if I am not mistaken about 1.9 oz /sq-ft. So it will add a little weight. But if the weave fills better or takes less that would be a plus. You have caused me do a lot of thinking. Only one this method can only be done a sheeted area. Like it when I get chance I will have to make some small experiments some time.
One thing is for sure it will be bulletproof.
That is 1.87oz per square yard, and it can be used on open bays the same as glassing. Also, the weave is far tighter than Koveral or glass and can be filled easily. On some full scale's they sew the fabric to make a snug sock, slide it over the wing and some fuselages, then do the finish work. As with us there are different methods, products, techniques, and each craftsman have their preference. Some even still use the shrinking dope with some of the fabrics.
See here, https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/randnitratedropclrhi.php .
 
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