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71" AJ Slick Building, Flying, and Questions

Capt.Roll

70cc twin V2
What seems to be very popular and effective is the Syssa/Tech Aero IBEF. Use one pack for RX, servos and ignition.

http://www.tech-aero.net/ultra-ibec

Use the channel/switch on the RX/TX that is usually assigned to the landing gear. I believe the above IBEF's will allow you to adjust the supply voltage to the ignition module as well.
 

3dNater

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
I've got a slick with well over 500 flights of hard and heavy 3d abuse (I actually bought it with 500 flights!)

Anyway, it's wing bolts are still intact and sturdy. I trust the 3DHS design, and don't think any extra stiffening is necessary. With THOUSANDS of kits sold, (and the design of the plane just updated) I'm quite sure they'd have modified the design if necessary.

Not knocking the actual aftermarket product as I don't have one, I'm just saying i think it's a little bit of hype marketed as "insurance"

To each their own! Any new owner will love their Slick regardless!

G

I said the same thing till it happened to me. For $12 I would put them in.
 

ryan_m

100cc
From following the original 70" Slick thread on RCG (before it became the V2 and grew to a 71) all the way through today I can say that in 4 years or so of following that thread I have seen very very few reports of failures in that area. And when I say I follow that thread, I mean I've read or skimmed through every single post in those 4 years. Not just read it occasionally. The notable failures seem to be around gas versions, and overpowered electric ones. Keep in mind the original design of the plane was for about 1800 watts. Over the years that has become about 2200 for the average setup with some guys pushing 3000 watts on it. The failures on the electric versions have been the high powered ones primarily, and even on gas it seems to be the guys who are particularly hard on planes. I'm sure there are maybe an exception here or there. Overall though I have only heard of about 8-10 planes that have experienced a failure in this area. Given the number sold, that's pretty low.

I'm not easy on mine, but on two different 70/71" slicks that I have owned I have put them through every maneuver I can, full throttle knife edge spins, tumbles, etc. The only exception being full throttle blenders, I won't do that on a 7x" plane. I have never made one fail. My old 70" Slick had probably 500-700 flights when I finally sold it and was still going strong.

That said, if you are at all worried about it, or if you are running gas, 12 dollars is pretty cheap insurance for peace of mind.
 

nsg

30cc
I finally got interested enough to look at my Slick - 71", electric, about two years old.

The areas where the pins/bolts go look to be balsa sheeting reinforced with basswood (or maybe harder balsa?). If glued properly, this should be enough, even for a 3kW Slick. However - if the person assembling the fuse didn't apply enough glue, the joint would be 1) weak enough to fail 2) look as good as any. That might explain the reported failures. I've seen 3DHS airframes where the assembly folks were very economical with glue... come to think of it, I think my Slick was in that category, or was it Velox?

The manual does tell you to go over the plane with CA when you build it.
 

miketek

30cc
Looks like a 20x8 prop would be a good choice for the DLE 35......Xoar props are pretty easy to find around here so that's probably what i'm gonna get.
Any big diferences between PJA PJD and PJM series ? Which serie would be most suitable for 3D ?
 

3dNater

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
20x8 will be a good destination prop. YMMV but mine did not turn that prop well until after break in. It will turn it nicely now but you may be happier with a 19x8 for a few gallons.
 

miketek

30cc
20x8 will be a good destination prop. YMMV but mine did not turn that prop well until after break in. It will turn it nicely now but you may be happier with a 19x8 for a few gallons.
Thanks for the tip !
Any preference between PJA, PJD or PJM series in Xoar ???
 

dskuro95

100cc
A friend of mine actually snapped his bolt during a full speed blender in his 71". HE has the $12 insurance item. Luckily we heard it, and he landed. As soon as he landed, the wing shot off the wing tube. On my 70", I stripped a wing bolt in the same maneuver. I do not have the $12 insurance item. When I landed, same thing happened as my friend.

From following the original 70" Slick thread on RCG (before it became the V2 and grew to a 71) all the way through today I can say that in 4 years or so of following that thread I have seen very very few reports of failures in that area. And when I say I follow that thread, I mean I've read or skimmed through every single post in those 4 years. Not just read it occasionally. The notable failures seem to be around gas versions, and overpowered electric ones. Keep in mind the original design of the plane was for about 1800 watts. Over the years that has become about 2200 for the average setup with some guys pushing 3000 watts on it. The failures on the electric versions have been the high powered ones primarily, and even on gas it seems to be the guys who are particularly hard on planes. I'm sure there are maybe an exception here or there. Overall though I have only heard of about 8-10 planes that have experienced a failure in this area. Given the number sold, that's pretty low.

I'm not easy on mine, but on two different 70/71" slicks that I have owned I have put them through every maneuver I can, full throttle knife edge spins, tumbles, etc. The only exception being full throttle blenders, I won't do that on a 7x" plane. I have never made one fail. My old 70" Slick had probably 500-700 flights when I finally sold it and was still going strong.

That said, if you are at all worried about it, or if you are running gas, 12 dollars is pretty cheap insurance for peace of mind.
 
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