74" Edge 540

[Todd Rollins]

Thanks! This 74" Edge has some miles on it. Once I get the twin broken in the motor will go in a 24% Pilot Edge 540.

 

[Chopper85]

They are rite up against the back side of the the wing tube. I mite have made a huge mistake,on the way home from wram I was fet up waiting and looking for the stuff to Finnish the plane by the way it was nice meeting u guys and thanks for the help,wish I had met Gary but the kid was getting restless . On the way home I stopped at a hobby shop and he talked me into more redundancy so I purchased a switch ,opto kill and 1 2550 lipo and a 3000 lipo I hope these batteries are not to big but seems ok.





View attachment 21500

Also I was told that while setting up cg for the first time the tank should be empty. I think there should be at least a half tank to split the weight in half. What do you guys do to get the cg on a new build?

 

[gyro]

Also I was told that while setting up cg for the first time the tank should be empty. I think there should be at least a half tank to split the weight in half. What do you guys do to get the cg on a new build?

I don't stress as much as others about CG. I setup the plane as others do, and then check for CG in flight. First, trim for straight and level after take off. Then, start climbing on a 45 inverted upline at 2/3rd throttle, take fingers off the elevator, and watch the nose. If it falls: nose heavy, if it climbs: tail heavy. That said, some planes fly better nose or tail heavy, so IMHO you need to FLY it first before stressing too much.

Once you get a feel for how the CG is with your setup, you can land and move the batteries forward or back as required... which leads my to this recommendation. Do your first flight with the batteries on the tray next to or in front of the fuel tank, as a slightly nose heavy plane may be easier for you to fly than a slightly tail heavy plane.

These 3D planes have a VERY wide CG range, and if you follow the manual and do as many others do, you'll end up with your CG somewhere in the flyable range from slightly tail heavy to nose heavy

 

[Chopper85]

I don't stress as much as others about CG. I setup the plane as others do, and then check for CG in flight. First, trim for straight and level after take off. Then, start climbing on a 45 inverted upline at 2/3rd throttle, take fingers off the elevator, and watch the nose. If it falls: nose heavy, if it climbs: tail heavy. That said, some planes fly better nose or tail heavy, so IMHO you need to FLY it first before stressing too much.

Once you get a feel for how the CG is with your setup, you can land and move the batteries forward or back as required... which leads my to this recommendation. Do your first flight with the batteries on the tray next to or in front of the fuel tank, as a slightly nose heavy plane may be easier for you to fly than a slightly tail heavy plane.

These 3D planes have a VERY wide CG range, and if you follow the manual and do as many others do, you'll end up with your CG somewhere in the flyable range from slightly tail heavy to nose heavy

The problem is when I put the Rudder servo in the tail it is tail heavy and with it as pull pull its really close to the recommended spot with no fuel so that's why I am asking because I need to figure were to put the rudder servo but maybe I am thinking to much .

 

[Enterprise]

Take back that opto kill and get a IBEC.

http://www.tech-aero.net/ultra-ibec

Ignition batteries are one more thing to remember to charge and another failure point and additional weight.

I would put a new DX-6 high on your priority list.

As far as switches go, for redundancy you need a true battery sharing system like the wolverine, smart fly batt share, or one of these.

http://www.boomarc.com/en/booma-rc-high-quality-digital-switch

That is just my 2 cents from a lot of hard knock lessons.

 

[gyro]

Take back that opto kill and get a IBEC.

http://www.tech-aero.net/ultra-ibec

Ignition batteries are one more thing to remember to charge and another failure point and additional weight.

I would put a new DX-6 high on your priority list.

As far as switches go, for redundancy you need a true battery sharing system like the wolverine, smart fly batt share, or one of these.

http://www.boomarc.com/en/booma-rc-high-quality-digital-switch

That is just my 2 cents from a lot of hard knock lessons.

+1 on the tech aero... And also I don't think Matt meant the dx6, he probably meant an 8 or 9?

 

[Chopper85]

Ya your rite , I will order the tech aero I just got fet up with waiting and the guy talked me into some redundancy. The switch is a smart fly with two plugs out for the rec so I will keep that . And the new dx6 is just like the dx9 with 150% servo travel unlike the dx6i and a new transmitter is next on my list but think I will go for the 9 so I never need anything more.

 

[Enterprise]

I meant the 6 only because if you sell the RX and your 6i you are in for under $100 for a more capable TX. The 9 is better.

 

[Chopper85]

Hey guys I was getting ready to install the rudder servo in the tail and am finding out that there is only two servo holes that are I am guessing for duel elevator and is not set up at all or sent with hardware for a tail rudder or am I missing something?

 

[AtomicFlyer]

Hey guys I was getting ready to install the rudder servo in the tail and am finding out that there is only two servo holes that are I am guessing for duel elevator and is not set up at all or sent with hardware for a tail rudder or am I missing something?

I worked through this same issue with the pertinent post starting here.

The short answer for me is that my airframe was only set up for pull-pull.

Marc