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Aerobeez 70″ Slick PRO Step By Step Build Guide

Boomer2

New to GSN!
Thanks guys I will order the Mezon 120. As to the quality issues I have only built 2 3DHS and a HH Beast 60e, and found them to be better quality and better instructions
I have no doubt that Aerobeez will do better in the future, I read their built log on the 93" and it was much better that the one for the 70". I did not have a cracked cowel like Bushwacker , just the cowl ring problem, misaligned hinges, missing cf rod at the front of the canopy hold down, very poor fit on one of the elevator halves requiring a shim, poorly aligned rudder control horn's, haven't decided how to fix yet but taking it to a much more experienced friend for help.
 

Bushwacker

3DRCF Moderator
[MENTION=3649]Boomer2[/MENTION] yo dude after speaking with Ken I to decided to go with the DM4330-216Kv with a 19x10 or 20x8 prop.
 

Bloosee

70cc twin V2
Thanks guys I will order the Mezon 120. As to the quality issues I have only built 2 3DHS and a HH Beast 60e, and found them to be better quality and better instructions
I have no doubt that Aerobeez will do better in the future, I read their built log on the 93" and it was much better that the one for the 70". I did not have a cracked cowel like Bushwacker , just the cowl ring problem, misaligned hinges, missing cf rod at the front of the canopy hold down, very poor fit on one of the elevator halves requiring a shim, poorly aligned rudder control horn's, haven't decided how to fix yet but taking it to a much more experienced friend for help.
[MENTION=3649]Boomer2[/MENTION], after I read your post I had to break out the rest of the plane (I had only been working on the wings), yes I have the loose elevator half as well. I'm wondering if it was intentional to allow the builder room to glue it on true. If it was too tight and not aligned then it would be a serious problem. When you epoxy the joiner rod into the half and tape it level with the other side the epoxy will dry and fill in any gap the exists. I'm not sure what you mean by poorly aligned rudder control horns....
 
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Boomer2

New to GSN!
Hey Bushwacker sounds like a monster power setup, it's just cool to have a vendor like Ken that will help and advise on setups like these. Let us know after the maiden.
Bloosee, I guess it's possible that they left the elevator half loose on purpose but for a relative noob builder like myself, with no more instruction that there is in their video it is not a confidence builder. As for the misaligned rudder control horns, after opening the mount slots in the rudder I dry mounted the horns and immediately noticed that when looking from the back of the rudder held vertically the right pair of horns was level but the left pair slanted downward @ 10 degrees and the ball link holes did not align. Have not tried to correct it yet.
 

Bloosee

70cc twin V2
Not cool that one side it angled slightly, but it should not really cause any issues with the rudder action. Make sure to screw the ball links onto the horns before gluing in the angled side to ensure they will fit (IF they will fit). Test fit everything at least once before gluing.

I'm not sure what number is stamped on your kit but mine has the number "001", like most things the first run may have a few bugs that will be corrected. My buddy is programmer with 3D Robotics, they are getting ready to ship a brand new high end quad, the concern right now is QC from the first batch out of the Chinese factory.
 

Bushwacker

3DRCF Moderator
Hey fellas, do you think this bird would benefit better with a push pull type of system or the pull pull?
I only ask because of the extra weight it may have with the 12S batts. Then again it might weigh out pretty close to a larger single battery.
 

3dNater

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
You will just have to see how it goes. Put the servo in the pull-pull tray without finalizing anything or messing with the cables and see how it balances. Your balance point should be real close to the wing-tube. See where your packs will have to go to achieve balance on the wing tube. If they have to go uncomfortably far forward try taping the servo where it would go on the back and see how it goes. The idea is that you want to have a good idea before finalizing anything. Before you decide on the rudder servo have the other components fixed in place and the cowl on so the last thing you have to decide is where that servo goes.
 

Bloosee

70cc twin V2
It might be an option as there seems to be a servo cutout for a rudder servo. If it doesn't work out then just cover the hole with black covering and move the servo to the tray. Seeing how lightly build the rudder and elevator are, I'd be willing to bet it would balance with the slightly heavier 12S setup.
 
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