Aerobeez 70″ Slick PRO Step By Step Build Guide

[Bloosee]

http://www.trimcraftaviationrc.com has a good selection of metric and standard stainless steel hardware...check them out...and good prices and fair shipping too...

Unless I'm missing something that site has screws and nuts and some threaded rod. The ball links that come with the Slick are 2mm, which means to use typical aluminum long arms new control rods/ball links would be required. I'd be using long arms on my Slick if the hardware were 3mm.

 

[Pete]

Bling will be difficult given that the hardware is 2mm, the AL long arms are 3mm. You'll have to change out the control rods and links. You can add some bling to the rudder though, just get the Secraft pull/pull tensioner and an AL double rudder arm, the Secraft tensioner ball links are 3mm.

If you don't like the Dubro arms in white, a black sharper will quickly turn them into black arms, it's what I normally do.

I'm hoping to get some serious work done on my Slick this weekend, weather doesn't look so good.

Bloosee is correct! The screws in the Slick Pro are 2mm using a 1.5mm screw head. Reason is to keep the airframe light. There is no real need for aluminum arms unless you want the "Bling" factor lol. The DuBro arms come in black, white, and gray however, the color is used to identify for different servo splines. Hitec servos will use the white or "off white" arms. If you are not a fan of the color, you can use a rattle can and paint them black. Or another option is using RIT fabric dye. Boil in a pot of hot water and RIT and soak your servo arms in there until the color has reached to your liking. Your other option is to use standard sized ball ends on the servo side.

Regards,

Pete

 

[Bushwacker]

unless you want the "Bling" factor lol. Pete

Thats all it is right there and if I can't then I would just use the white arm. I like the contrast of the white against the yellow and black.

 

[Enterprise]

There are these arms.

http://www.3drcparts.com/cnc-machined-aluminum-futaba-savox-servo-long-arm-25t-m2/

They come in Hitec as well, only gold then.

 

[Bushwacker]

The spin and the Mezon are very different ESCs. My spin 170 has a very paltry 1.5 second accelation setting. Get a Mezon 120.

[MENTION=271]Enterprise[/MENTION]
So it looks like I will have to go up to the MasterMezon 130 as I will be running 12S. The 120 goes to 8S. Sound about right? Unless you have a better idea to consider.

 

[Enterprise]

You can do a Mezon 90 or 90 lite if we are talking 12s 3300. That is what I ran in my AJ laser and will recycle it to a new plane.

Mezon 90 and 130 are 12s
Mezon 120 and 160 are 8s

These are the ones with BECs and there is a lite version of each of them.

I got a 90 lite for my 60" laser. I know complete overkill, but it was about the same weight as the Gecko 85A and MUI 75.

I am trying out a Graupner 160HV +T in my 91" Extra electric because there is no Mezon that size and the spin 170 is very heavy in comparison.

On this ARF, I think 6s 5000 is perfect. I hope we jumped threads.

 

[Bloosee]

There are these arms.

http://www.3drcparts.com/cnc-machined-aluminum-futaba-savox-servo-long-arm-25t-m2/

They come in Hitec as well, only gold then.

Thanks Enterprise, I just ordered one for the elevator which is the only one I'd be concerned about the Dubro's stripping.

 

[Bushwacker]

Yeah I was looking at the 90 too, but like you I was thinking about a future build of something larger. The weight difference isn't that much nor is the money.

 

[Bloosee]

Mine is getting the Mezon 160 Lite, there is a significant difference in weight between the lite and regular. I have one of each. I think we are all aiming to keep this 70 as light as possible.

 

[Bushwacker]

Well has anyone ran into any other new issues assembling this bird yet? You know I remember reading "don't remember where" that some dude came up with this method of gluing and sealing larger gaps. He took some baking soda and filled in the large gaps with it until he had it where he wanted and then glued. Said one of the great things about this method was that when you ran your bead of CA it would transform the baking soda into something transparent and what you would see is what was underneath. Pretty cool if you ask me and I will be trying this method out myself if I run into something to large to glue normally.

Dang man wish I could remember his name and where I found that post. "Many thanks to you Bro"