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Sport CARF Pitts - Engine Upgrade

reyn3545

100cc
After further review.. I think I'll just move the batteries.

I was able to remove the original battery tray from its footing and shift it back to sit on a fuselage brace that runs across the back of the plane. A quick CG check tells me that with this shift, the CG is now 2 inches behind the leading edge of the plane. The previous setup had the CG at 2.75 inches. On a lot of planes, 3/4 of an inch would be a lot, but on this behemoth, I don't think I'll notice it. If I do, at least it will be a forward CG, and I can always add weight if I want to later.
 

reyn3545

100cc
These are about as far as I can reach now... If if was a wooden plane, I'd cut an access hatch in the bottom.
 

dhal22

GSN Sponsor Tier 1
These are about as far as I can reach now... If if was a wooden plane, I'd cut an access hatch in the bottom.

There is a thread 'elsewhere' showing cutting servo hatches for ailerons in Carf planes. Someone was doing a pretty neat job of that.
 

reyn3545

100cc
I cut servo holes in the wings of a previous planes, and on this one I moved the elevator and rudder servos to the back, cutting holes and adding backing plates for support. And it still needed more tail weight! This plane was designed back when a DA150 was a big motor.
 

dhal22

GSN Sponsor Tier 1
Finally I'm switching to modern Fromeco batteries and removing my Nimh batteries from my Yak. With the heavy 3W up front they worked well for helping with balancing. I will have to move the newer lighter batteries further back.
 

reyn3545

100cc
A123's make a world of difference for charging, no explosion danger, and they are very reliable... You just need to proactively charge them after every 3 or 4 flights. For me... that's just about a day's worth of flying.
 
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