Sport Sport plane for a Kolm 150

[TonyHallo]

I don't think the rear shear webs are necessary. Isn't the trailing edge getting glued to the rear spars? That in effect acts as a shear web.

 

[AKNick]

They don't add a lot of weight; I'd still use them even if using thin balsa. I always figured the advantage is to create rigidity of the noodle spars - thus reducing the flex in the wing at a very small weight penalty. I've seen them used more where the wing center section area and once they get closer to the tip they end up removing the aft shear webs (where there is no sheeting) and then eliminating them all together in the last few rib bays.

 

[BalsaDust]

MY thoughts on shear webs. Yes glue them to the sides. If fitted between the spars its just a butt joint then and will add almost zero extra strength. As for ones on the rear spar. No need to do them full length of the wing but I would run them from the root rib out to the rib your wing tube terminates at. Speaking of the wing tube be sure to tie it into you shear webbing. A fillet of thickened epoxy, Fitting a piece of tri-stock, or even just some foaming gorilla glue. This will add a tremendous amount of strength in that area.

 

[Snoopy1]

I don't think the rear shear webs are necessary. Isn't the trailing edge getting glued to the rear spars? That in effect acts as a shear web.

They don't add a lot of weight; I'd still use them even if using thin balsa. I always figured the advantage is to create rigidity of the noodle spars - thus reducing the flex in the wing at a very small weight penalty. I've seen them used more where the wing center section area and once they get closer to the tip they end up removing the aft shear webs (where there is no sheeting) and then eliminating them all together in the last few rib bays.

MY thoughts on shear webs. Yes glue them to the sides. If fitted between the spars its just a butt joint then and will add almost zero extra strength. As for ones on the rear spar. No need to do them full length of the wing but I would run them from the root rib out to the rib your wing tube terminates at. Speaking of the wing tube be sure to tie it into you shear webbing. A fillet of thickened epoxy, Fitting a piece of tri-stock, or even just some foaming gorilla glue. This will add a tremendous amount of strength in that area.

Thanks for all the replies will install shear webs. Also I will glue the wing tube to the shear webs that are also glued to the main spars. When designing the wing the sleeve was located so that 1/8 shear web slid between the sleeve and the main spars.

 

[Snoopy1]

The four small 1/8 - 1/4 balsa aileron spars have been add so that the hinge blocks can be glued in and servo horn.

The wiring sleeve has been added. It is just a sheet of Mylar rolled up and slid into place with a couple of drops of glue to hold in place

 

[Snoopy1]

Made all the hinge blocks and horn block for the aileron. Also cut some aileron horns for the control linkage To connect to. Cannot believe the amount of time it is taking to make all the little parts to complete the wing inner structure.

 

[TonyHallo]

What percentage of the thickness of the wing?

 

[Snoopy1]

What percentage of the thickness of the wing?

The wing is 10.6% fully symmetrical.

 

[Snoopy1]

Nice change decided to glue the front sheeting on the RH side bottom. setup with a laser then clamped the leading edge down to the workbench with a straight edge, and weighted down the rest. It is the only way I have been able to get a nice straight flat leading edge. The rest of the wing has many wedges under the wing to keep everything straight and level set by the laser.

 

[Snoopy1]

With wing all setup I thought why not do the centre section as well, went well and quickly?