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Scale 1/3 Scale Harvard with Moki 250

FUSELAGE CRADDLE

This plane is just too big for me to easily move from my house to the trailer and then onto the flying field. At the field it will take the assistance of an extra two sets of hands to flip it from it's backside to upright with the wings assembled to it.

To make moving somewhat easier, I built this custom sized cradle out of 1 1/2 inch ABS pipe and fitting.

I purchased some cheap wheels from Amazon. For protection against scratching I used the larges Pipe Fitting Foam from Home Depot.

The wheel shaft is a piece of 1/2-13 threaded rod.

CRADLE.JPG PADDING.JPG WHEELS.JPG
 
EXHAUST DEFLECTORS

I made the exhaust deflectors from 3/4 inch copper pipe fittings. Each one is made from three seperarate 45 degree Male to Female Elbows.

The first one slides tightly over the Moki Exit Ring pipe by about an inch. The nice thing about using these type of fitting is that it is very easy to orient them to have the final exit exactly where you want them.

After dry assembling them, I then silver soldered them into their correct place. A tip I use to not loose their proper orientation when moving them from the engine to the workshop vice, is to use my Dremel cut off tool and make a subtle notch in the mating parts. I solder one at a time and re-install the first sub assembly and recheck that the next part still lines up correctly. If not I make the small adjustment for the second silver solder attachment.

For a final cleanup, I soaked them in a very weak solution Muriatic acid.

Next year I plan to make another exhaust system that will have the exhaust come out the side of the plane.
EXHAUSR DEFLECTORS.JPG FRONT VIEW.JPG SIDE VIEW.JPG
 

dhal22

GSN Sponsor Tier 1
As a plumber 30+ years into his career I can appreciate a good solder job when I see one. You could solder the copper 2 hole strap to the pipe now that you know where it all goes.
 

BalsaDust

Moderator
As a plumber 30+ years into his career I can appreciate a good solder job when I see one. You could solder the copper 2 hole strap to the pipe now that you know where it all goes.

And here I thought all plumbers had to know was "Hot goes on the left, cold goes on the right, and crap flows downhill". :). So I'm a sparky and just had to do it.
 
[QUOTE="dhal22, post: 96842, member: 707"]As a plumber 30+ years into his career I can appreciate a good solder job when I see one. You could solder the copper 2 hole strap to the pipe now that you know where it all goes.[/QUOTE]

To remove my copper pipes I need to rotate them back and forth to rock them off of the Moki pipes. If I was to silver solder the straps on I would have to completely remove the engine from the firewall to get my pipes off. For this reason I chose not to attach the straps permanently to the pipes.

Actually I am fortunate that the fit is so snug between the steel Moki pipe and my copper fitting as it should severely retard any leakage.
 

Bartman

Defender of the Noob!
Not everyone visits this site, and I would like to get valuable information from all out there that can help me. I certainly learned a lot about my Beautifying the Beast from GiantScaleNews comments.

Would you prefer that I DON"T post here?

Yes, that's what I'm saying. I see your preferred site is FG, and I'm not sure what people are seeking (celebrity maybe?) when they post identical updates at three or four sites and then don't even reply to the people responding to their posts, so you should probably just go there and stay there.

It's an insult to our members that you think you're doing us a favor by posting updates and barely anything else. I saw in another thread where you were attempting to redirect traffic to FG so it's probably best for you to just go and enjoy the many benefits they offer there.
 

Flyingjon

70cc twin V2
EXHAUST DEFLECTORS

I made the exhaust deflectors from 3/4 inch copper pipe fittings. Each one is made from three seperarate 45 degree Male to Female Elbows.

The first one slides tightly over the Moki Exit Ring pipe by about an inch. The nice thing about using these type of fitting is that it is very easy to orient them to have the final exit exactly where you want them.

After dry assembling them, I then silver soldered them into their correct place. A tip I use to not loose their proper orientation when moving them from the engine to the workshop vice, is to use my Dremel cut off tool and make a subtle notch in the mating parts. I solder one at a time and re-install the first sub assembly and recheck that the next part still lines up correctly. If not I make the small adjustment for the second silver solder attachment.

For a final cleanup, I soaked them in a very weak solution Muriatic acid.

Next year I plan to make another exhaust system that will have the exhaust come out the side of the plane.
View attachment 50081 View attachment 50082 View attachment 50083
I'd like to hear that radial run now! If and when you get the exhaust hooked up to the scale pipes, I'd like to see a low flyby with smoke on! [emoji106]
 
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