cwojcik
70cc twin V2
Hello again my Twisted brethren!
It's that time again. It's been a while since we have had another plane in the same vein as the ubiquitous Crack Yak. We've upped the sophistication with indoor monsters like the Crack Yak Lite and Crack Laser, and brought things to an easy and precise pace with the SuperLite Crack Yak and Su-29. We've dominated gardens and backyard bush flying with the Crack Turbo Beaver, and gone to even greater lengths with a few larger models.
But we know that lots of you fly outdoors exclusively, and crave the high energy and durability of the standard models. So we've got a new model for you!
Presenting the new MXS-C. Built in standard thickness foam, the MXS-C is the backyard XA monster you have been waiting for. Insanely stiff, this thing will hold up to the sick power of the 26 gram motor with a 9x4.7 prop on 2S, or to go absolutely nuts, you can swap to a 8x4DD prop and 3S and enjoy power that borders on irresponsible. Firewall the throttle and this freak stays rock solid!
The aerodynamics are fresh and unique as well. Built on the same formula that delivered the Crack Yak and Crack Laser, the MXS-C is the result of many prototypes and lots of experimentation. The elevator placement and size, fuselage shape, ailerons, and rudder have been optimized to deliver simply insane authority. Harder pitch changes, pinpoint spins, tumbles, and lightning fast snap rolls are all right at your finger tips alongside high speed racing turns and surprisingly precise tracking as well. This plane knife edge spins better than many wood airplanes! Of course, pull the throttle back and the plane settles right in, delivering gentle and precise harriers for learning.
Even though we have returned to our roots, we refuse to rest on our laurels! Through careful engineering, we have managed to place the servos in the tail. Short, tight, and precise linkages deliver awesome control response with no pushrod guides necessary. Of course, RCFactory's legendary quality and ease of construction are here to ensure your model comes out perfect. This is the easiest plane to build yet!
Also, this is the first standard model to include landing gear! Built similarly to the Lite series landing gear, it's strong, very light, and easy to install.
Build thread will start NOW
OK, without further ado, let’s start the build! Make sure you have the following materials to build the plane:
Welder glue
CA
Thread (carbon fiber tow even better)
Blenderm tape (optional, but highly recommended. 3M Durapore or Frost King will also work in a pinch but Blenderm is unmatched).
Parchment paper (not a necessity, but highly recommended).
And the following tools:
X –acto with fresh blades
Small screw driver set
Wire cutters
Something square to line up the fuselage with…CD cases work well
Pop open that box:
And lay out the pieces. You should have the fuselage parts:
Wing, stab, rudder, trusses, wheel pants, fin/rudder, and SFG’s:
Spar, pushrods, and hardware pack:
Fold the hinges back on themselves 180 degrees and put a weight on them, leave them like this for a few hours. This will really free up the hinges and make them move much smoother.
While the hinges loosen, you can glue the canopy on.
Put a small bead of glue on the bottom of the canopy. You won’t need too much here.
Press the canopy back on the fuselage. You can either just leave it and wait for it to dry (it will take about an hour) or you can pull it apart, let the exposed glue air dry for about five minutes, then press it back together and it will grab firmly. If you do this, be careful to line everything up precisely.
Now let’s glue the wings on the fuselage. Remove the weights and bend the ailerons down a bit to straighten them if necessary. Put down a piece of parchment paper to glue on; it’s just about the only thing out there that Welder does not stick to.
Spread some glue on the mating surfaces of the wings. A 1/8” bead is good.
Glue the wings to the fuselage.
Let the glue dry, then carefully cut the tabs that hold the wings and fuselage together at the spar slot to open the spar slot.
Spread some Welder glue in the spar slot, making sure to coat evenly.
Install the spar, press the fuselage together around it, and carefully wipe up any excess glue that comes out. Weight it down to keep it pressed together and flat, let it dry for at least three hours.
It's that time again. It's been a while since we have had another plane in the same vein as the ubiquitous Crack Yak. We've upped the sophistication with indoor monsters like the Crack Yak Lite and Crack Laser, and brought things to an easy and precise pace with the SuperLite Crack Yak and Su-29. We've dominated gardens and backyard bush flying with the Crack Turbo Beaver, and gone to even greater lengths with a few larger models.
But we know that lots of you fly outdoors exclusively, and crave the high energy and durability of the standard models. So we've got a new model for you!
Presenting the new MXS-C. Built in standard thickness foam, the MXS-C is the backyard XA monster you have been waiting for. Insanely stiff, this thing will hold up to the sick power of the 26 gram motor with a 9x4.7 prop on 2S, or to go absolutely nuts, you can swap to a 8x4DD prop and 3S and enjoy power that borders on irresponsible. Firewall the throttle and this freak stays rock solid!
The aerodynamics are fresh and unique as well. Built on the same formula that delivered the Crack Yak and Crack Laser, the MXS-C is the result of many prototypes and lots of experimentation. The elevator placement and size, fuselage shape, ailerons, and rudder have been optimized to deliver simply insane authority. Harder pitch changes, pinpoint spins, tumbles, and lightning fast snap rolls are all right at your finger tips alongside high speed racing turns and surprisingly precise tracking as well. This plane knife edge spins better than many wood airplanes! Of course, pull the throttle back and the plane settles right in, delivering gentle and precise harriers for learning.
Even though we have returned to our roots, we refuse to rest on our laurels! Through careful engineering, we have managed to place the servos in the tail. Short, tight, and precise linkages deliver awesome control response with no pushrod guides necessary. Of course, RCFactory's legendary quality and ease of construction are here to ensure your model comes out perfect. This is the easiest plane to build yet!
Also, this is the first standard model to include landing gear! Built similarly to the Lite series landing gear, it's strong, very light, and easy to install.
Build thread will start NOW
OK, without further ado, let’s start the build! Make sure you have the following materials to build the plane:
Welder glue
CA
Thread (carbon fiber tow even better)
Blenderm tape (optional, but highly recommended. 3M Durapore or Frost King will also work in a pinch but Blenderm is unmatched).
Parchment paper (not a necessity, but highly recommended).
And the following tools:
X –acto with fresh blades
Small screw driver set
Wire cutters
Something square to line up the fuselage with…CD cases work well
Pop open that box:
And lay out the pieces. You should have the fuselage parts:
Wing, stab, rudder, trusses, wheel pants, fin/rudder, and SFG’s:
Spar, pushrods, and hardware pack:
Fold the hinges back on themselves 180 degrees and put a weight on them, leave them like this for a few hours. This will really free up the hinges and make them move much smoother.
While the hinges loosen, you can glue the canopy on.
Put a small bead of glue on the bottom of the canopy. You won’t need too much here.
Press the canopy back on the fuselage. You can either just leave it and wait for it to dry (it will take about an hour) or you can pull it apart, let the exposed glue air dry for about five minutes, then press it back together and it will grab firmly. If you do this, be careful to line everything up precisely.
Now let’s glue the wings on the fuselage. Remove the weights and bend the ailerons down a bit to straighten them if necessary. Put down a piece of parchment paper to glue on; it’s just about the only thing out there that Welder does not stick to.
Spread some glue on the mating surfaces of the wings. A 1/8” bead is good.
Glue the wings to the fuselage.
Let the glue dry, then carefully cut the tabs that hold the wings and fuselage together at the spar slot to open the spar slot.
Spread some Welder glue in the spar slot, making sure to coat evenly.
Install the spar, press the fuselage together around it, and carefully wipe up any excess glue that comes out. Weight it down to keep it pressed together and flat, let it dry for at least three hours.
Last edited by a moderator:
