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Scale 35% Krill Extra 330SC....CUSTOM-ARF!!!

Pistolera

HEY!..GET OUTTA MY TREE!
Question for those with Bondo 2-part experience.

On the pics I posted above I used the 2-part Bondo Professional spot putty/glazing compound to build up the panel thickness i desired (about as thick as a hotel key card). This stuff flows/spreads very smoothly, and sands easily.

On the other side (no pics...it looks the same) I've used 2-part Bondo Professional body filler which mixes the same (hardener to putty ratios), is somewhat thicker on application, so doesn't quite spread as nice. It is much harder to sand, although still very sandable. Seems to be much less susceptible to dings.

So....I'm thinking the body filler may be a better choice for me, long-term.
>>>>> What do y'all think ????
 

Jetpainter

640cc Uber Pimp
Question for those with Bondo 2-part experience.

On the pics I posted above I used the 2-part Bondo Professional spot putty/glazing compound to build up the panel thickness i desired (about as thick as a hotel key card). This stuff flows/spreads very smoothly, and sands easily.

On the other side (no pics...it looks the same) I've used 2-part Bondo Professional body filler which mixes the same (hardener to putty ratios), is somewhat thicker on application, so doesn't quite spread as nice. It is much harder to sand, although still very sandable. Seems to be much less susceptible to dings.

So....I'm thinking the body filler may be a better choice for me, long-term.
>>>>> What do y'all think ????
The body filler is better for building, and stronger, but as you said is not as smooth or easy to sand as the glaze.
 

dhal22

GSN Sponsor Tier 1
I like Evercoat. Very light and sandable.


20181204_195022.jpg
 

Pistolera

HEY!..GET OUTTA MY TREE!
Some progress.....both sides of fuse "panels" done. Completely sanded off the first attempt where I used spot putty. Built them back up again with body FILLER and a touch of putty as needed to smooth.
20190123_103442.jpg
Also, fabbed up a mandrel and hammered out some aluminum fairings for the rudder cables, and turned some scale fairleads with nylon bushings. These will be mounted after painting. The paper tab locates where the rudder cable will attach to the horn. Included a pic of the full scale fairing/lead for reference.
20190123_185124.jpg 20190124_155407.jpg 20190125_094837.jpg DSC00773 Closeup.jpg
Lastly replaced the 6 large metric cowl mounting screws with a bunch of 4-40 button heads which are WAY more looking!
20190125_095845.jpg
 

Pistolera

HEY!..GET OUTTA MY TREE!
Really giving a lot of thought to running just one aileron servo per side. The inboard servo mount is very strong...basically mounted into the solid ply wing rib. The inboard horn is 7" out from the inboard end, and these composite ailerons are VERY stiff torsion-ally. I've clamped the root and tried twisting the end....it takes a LOT of effort to show even an 1/8" of flex!

Additionally each aileron has aerodynamic counterbalances on their tips, plus I'm mounting spades. Both of these help reduce the felt load on the servo. The kicker is the stunningly high powered servos we now have available. I figure a minimum of 600 oz/in should be sufficient. Looking at ProModeler DS630BLHV (630 oz/in and 0.10 speed @7.4V) as an extremely affordable candidate here. Then there's the Savox SB2290SG (694 oz/in, 0.13 @ 7.4). Of course the Futaba HPS A700 would certainly fit the bill although maybe a bit overkill...and about $100 more per servo.

Lastly....this plane will primarily see scale aerobatic style flying.....by an OLD GUY :lol2:
 

acerc

640cc Uber Pimp
The single aileron servo would do fine in the short term I am sure. But it is the long term with the constant minor flexing that causes the problem. Think of it like a piece of metal, flex it once or twice causes no real harm but constant flexing will weaken and eventually break it.
There is no great loss in having two servos but may prove otherwise without it.
OMHO!
 
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