35CC 3D Plane

[dth7]

You best break-in will always be on a freshly honed cylinder. So either I'm doing like you did or probably forget it.

I had not heard of the reed valve thing. Do you have any info?

How's this?
http://www.3drcforums.com/showthread.php?t=1533
Don't forget to check out the "forums" section for great resources.

 

[3dNater]

I bolted my 35 on a plane without any mods and have been loving it ever since. If I had the ring in-hand when I bought the engine I probably would have changed it out but I have not had any reason to regret NOT doing it either. Mine wasn't broke, so I didn't fix it

 

[dth7]

I bolted my 35 on a plane without any mods and have been loving it ever since. If I had the ring in-hand when I bought the engine I probably would have changed it out but I have not had any reason to regret NOT doing it either. Mine wasn't broke, so I didn't fix it

Also a valid point [MENTION=4]3dNater[/MENTION]. I had the part and the help and the time. Also had reports and witnessed a member having idle and start troubles with a DLE 30 with reed valve being the suspect. So the motivation was there. Part of the diversity of experience in this hobby.

 

[Abrams]

I'm going to leave the engine as-is. I've barely had the time to put this plane together. I'm going to have limited time to fly it this year. I have to finish it.

I bought a black plastic 3" Great Planes spinner. Just can't finish it without a spinner. I'll be balancing soon.

 

[dth7]

I'm going to leave the engine as-is. I've barely had the time to put this plane together. I'm going to have limited time to fly it this year. I have to finish it.

I bought a black plastic 3" Great Planes spinner. Just can't finish it without a spinner. I'll be balancing soon.

Just sayin keep in mind if the carb comes off easy the sanding takes an hour and is likely to help it run better. Do what you like but if you start getting unreliable status or idling look to the reed block first.
Best of luck with it.

 

[3dNater]

I'm so excited to hear about a maiden!

 

[SnowDog]

Just sayin keep in mind if the carb comes off easy the sanding takes an hour and is likely to help it run better. Do what you like but if you start getting unreliable status or idling look to the reed block first.
Best of luck with it.

I agree Daren, I had problems with a DLE-30 so I took off the carb and did the reed block sanding...I'll be putting that motor on a plane in the next week or so. I also have an NIB DLE-35RA that I'm going to put on my (repaired) Bigfoot...the reed block sanding was so easy to do that I'm going to do that on the DLE-35RA as well before I install it.

 

[Abrams]

I have everything in the plane but batteries switches and the associated wiring. I have 1 4500mah 2s battery sitting on the tail.

Im still debating what lipo configuration to use. In the past I have run two regulator off of one battery. I've heard the ignition last longer on lower voltage, so I might run the ignition off of a regulator and still use one battery. I had an electrical engineer friend check my previous setup on an oscilloscope and it was pretty clean. I might have him check this one as well.

Or, I might just go two batteries and be totally safe. Any recommendations on sizes for two lipos?

 

[dth7]

I run 2 1800 2s or 2200 2s through a wolverine switch and ibec on my EF 78 with DLE 35 RA. No problems at all. Balances fine and it gives me redundancy. 1800s give 3-5 flights, 2200s 4-5.

 

[gyro]

For a four standard servo plane, I'd say one 1800-2200 2s LiPo is plenty, so of you want redundancy two of the 1800 would be nice.