AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
35cc, it's not just built for electric.
3DHS 75" EDGE 540 V2 Assembly Thread
- Thread starter AKNick
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35cc, it's not just built for electric.
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
More Hinging.
Added The control horns in this manner.
laquer thinner does a little better job cleaning than Isopropyl but still works. I also used the alcohol to wipe the control horns clean and let dry before moving on to the epoxy. Sometimes the release compound can still interfere with the epoxy bonding process, cannot say I've ever had an issue, but I always try and be proactive and learn from others.
Added The control horns in this manner.
laquer thinner does a little better job cleaning than Isopropyl but still works. I also used the alcohol to wipe the control horns clean and let dry before moving on to the epoxy. Sometimes the release compound can still interfere with the epoxy bonding process, cannot say I've ever had an issue, but I always try and be proactive and learn from others.
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AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
I truly love the way the horizontal gets added. They've incorporated a puzzle piece so you can basically epoxy and go! Well done guys. I dry fit the horiz, trimmed, and marked it evenly so I can epoxy and set into place. Like the traditional method, I always measure for squareness from the vertical and some point on the fuse. I was pleasantly surprised that I did not need to move much at all. Rest assured you can just slam it together and it would work great.
I put the block in at this time as well since everything trued up nicely. Then I cleaned up the little mess I made.
This was possibly the easiest method for adding a horizontal that gets glued in place. It's much lighter than a bolt on horizontal, especially with this size airframe.
I put the block in at this time as well since everything trued up nicely. Then I cleaned up the little mess I made.
This was possibly the easiest method for adding a horizontal that gets glued in place. It's much lighter than a bolt on horizontal, especially with this size airframe.
HRRC Flyer
GSN Sponsor Tier 1
@AKNick ,
I've got to admit, I have never cared much for the Edge, but that's an AWESOME looking plane. . . . . . .
I love the color scheme. I didn't know you started the thread until after @pawnshopmike moved it for you. Another hinging tip I learned is if you have a hole punch for paper, use it to punch holes in some blue tape and put a piece over each hinge hole. It will help catch the epoxy that squeezes out of the hole.
I'm in for the remainder of your assembly. Keep up the awesome work. . . .
.
I've got to admit, I have never cared much for the Edge, but that's an AWESOME looking plane. . . . . . .
I love the color scheme. I didn't know you started the thread until after @pawnshopmike moved it for you. Another hinging tip I learned is if you have a hole punch for paper, use it to punch holes in some blue tape and put a piece over each hinge hole. It will help catch the epoxy that squeezes out of the hole.I'm in for the remainder of your assembly. Keep up the awesome work. . . .
.
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
Thanks for the Tip!!! I like it!
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
@AKNick ,
I've got to admit, I have never cared much for the Edge, but that's an AWESOME looking plane. . . . . . .
I am with you here as well. The scheme is killer! This plane will help me determine whether to get its bigger 92" brother or the tried and true 91/93" laser. After owning an AJ 73" laser, Its been possibly the most relaxing airframe for me to fly.
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
Rudder Assembly
If I took the time to read the tip from @HRRC Flyer of using a hole punch into blue painters tape, it would have lessened my hinging mess! That is why I love doing this, we can ALWAYS learn from someone else!
If I took the time to read the tip from @HRRC Flyer of using a hole punch into blue painters tape, it would have lessened my hinging mess! That is why I love doing this, we can ALWAYS learn from someone else!
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
Adding the control horn to the rudder.
The key here is to make sure your control horns are symmetric and the ball link holes are close to the hinge line. It helps to dry fit them and mark with a pencil first. Add the epoxy, insert, and then look from the top of the rudder for symmetry with the rudder taped in the center.
The key here is to make sure your control horns are symmetric and the ball link holes are close to the hinge line. It helps to dry fit them and mark with a pencil first. Add the epoxy, insert, and then look from the top of the rudder for symmetry with the rudder taped in the center.
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
Tail Wheel Assembly.
Three wood screws, and a ball link tiller system with nothing pre-drilled for you. What I mean is this is practically a kit
Sanded the plastic part of the ball end and made some notched grooves with my dremel for the epoxy to grab onto later. Find a drill bit the same diameter of the ball end shaft.
Hold the tail wheel spring into position so the steel wheel spring is exactly over the hinge line center, tape it there. Mark about 1/2" or more down the tip of the wire tiller arm onto the rudder and drill a shallow hole enough for the ball link shaft to sit in. then epoxy it in place.
Now that is set up, I'll position the tailwheel. What I have found is while moving the tailwheel forward and aft along the center line and while moving the rudder back and forth - you'll find a happy spot where everything moves together without binding/torsion. It may be a little off center but anything to take that torsion out and eliminate the tailwheel from wanting to twist itself out of position making your screws loose, ect.
Once you find the happy spot, hold it down and mark the holes or drill a pilot hole for the screws.
Tap the holes, add some thin CA to harden the new threads you just made.
After that cures, go ahead and put the screws in, right before you tighten them down, do a rudder movement test again to double check it's happy. Then tighten them down.
I love that they made allen head screws instead of phillips in their ARF's!!
Although the carbon and alluminum tailwheel is cool, There isn't a whole lot of give. Meaning it doesn't act like a spring and bend very well for this size aircraft which is fine, but I like more springy action personally. I think the looks compensate for springaling functionality
Three wood screws, and a ball link tiller system with nothing pre-drilled for you. What I mean is this is practically a kit
Sanded the plastic part of the ball end and made some notched grooves with my dremel for the epoxy to grab onto later. Find a drill bit the same diameter of the ball end shaft.
Hold the tail wheel spring into position so the steel wheel spring is exactly over the hinge line center, tape it there. Mark about 1/2" or more down the tip of the wire tiller arm onto the rudder and drill a shallow hole enough for the ball link shaft to sit in. then epoxy it in place.
Now that is set up, I'll position the tailwheel. What I have found is while moving the tailwheel forward and aft along the center line and while moving the rudder back and forth - you'll find a happy spot where everything moves together without binding/torsion. It may be a little off center but anything to take that torsion out and eliminate the tailwheel from wanting to twist itself out of position making your screws loose, ect.
Once you find the happy spot, hold it down and mark the holes or drill a pilot hole for the screws.
Tap the holes, add some thin CA to harden the new threads you just made.
After that cures, go ahead and put the screws in, right before you tighten them down, do a rudder movement test again to double check it's happy. Then tighten them down.
I love that they made allen head screws instead of phillips in their ARF's!!
Although the carbon and alluminum tailwheel is cool, There isn't a whole lot of give. Meaning it doesn't act like a spring and bend very well for this size aircraft which is fine, but I like more springy action personally. I think the looks compensate for springaling functionality