Another covering question

[TnAeroNut]

When you're "tightening" the covering of either a new ARF or one you've been flying for a while... How hot do you set the iron? Any specific degrees?

 

[3Dchief]

It depends on the covering type. I generally start it out really low and turn it up just enough to tighten it. Not sure about the actual numbers, but it's easier to heat it up more if it needs it than it is to fix the covering if you overheat it.

 

[49dimes]

I find about 350 works well for most coverings. Place on a wrinkle and let stand 5sec and lift off to check. Do not slide the iron with pressure for you can crease the covering. Be gentle. Applying excessive pressure or sliding the iron is what can make or break a nice smooth finish. Let the weight of the iron apply the pressure.

 

[Dooinit]

I find about 350 works well for most coverings. Place on a wrinkle and let stand 5sec and lift off to check. Do not slide the iron with pressure for you can crease the covering. Be gentle. Applying excessive pressure or sliding the iron is what can make or break a nice smooth finish. Let the weight of the iron apply the pressure.

I am working on my 35% dalton and I found what you said to be very true. If you use the iron like you are ironing a shirt, I found the covering can get scratched or dulled. If you just set it in place for a couple of seconds and move it, it works the best. After I do most of my shrinking with the iron, I run over the while thing with my heat gun.

 

[TnAeroNut]

Thanks, I'll try to improve my technique. Usually the tightening job only lasts for a couple flying days. My current planes are both UltraCote but I've got a Pitts on the bench that I've built from a kit but not yet covered; I think I'll try ColorTex fabric this time. I did a fabric - covered (glow powered) AeroMaster many years ago and it held up pretty well. Time to try something different.

 

[stangflyer]

Something I have found that works really well for tightening covering: Open structure usually tightens up quite nicely using only your heat gun. Consistent even passes left to right, top to bottom or which ever direction allows you to feel comfortable with your paths. Correct distance from the covering to your gun is also very important. Too close, you burn holes in the covering. Too far away and you heat the covering up too slowly and usually create more wrinkles or bubbles due to the gasses from the adhesive being released in a greater amount. "Read" your covering. It will usually give you an indication of when your heat is just right.

Sheeted surfaces however can present a numerous amount of factors to be considered. A stripe or a different color upon first layer, seams, or just simple single layer such as sheeted wings or stabs, fin...etc, are really a little different story. I use my iron with the sock on it. So as to protect from dulling or scratches and what not. Typically warmer than just warm to the touch. Almost, but not quite hot. Kelly suggests 350 degrees. That is a good number but remember Ultracote will usually stretch or shrink at a much lower heat setting than Monokote. I use a "COOL" damp soft cloth. I will address the wrinkle, bubble or sun blister which ever it may be by applying the heat gently... smoothing from side to side to allow the covering to absorb the heat evenly. Moving my iron off the covering then gently "swiping" the damp cloth across the heated area will cause it to "SUCK" right back to the surface. The adhesive on the back side grabs ahold of the wooden structure and the dampened cloth cools the covering without allowing a new wrinkle or bubble. After the first season of hot summer sun and 50 flights, my 260 had developed some fairly sever "sun" wrinkles on both sides of the turtle deck and sheeted portions of the wings. Remembering this procedure from previous models that exhibited the same issues, I preformed the same procedure on the 260 with perfect results.

Hope this helps

 

[49dimes]

Something I have found that works really well for tightening covering: Open structure usually tightens up quite nicely using only your heat gun. Consistent even passes left to right, top to bottom or which ever direction allows you to feel comfortable with your paths. Correct distance from the covering to your gun is also very important. Too close, you burn holes in the covering. Too far away and you heat the covering up too slowly and usually create more wrinkles or bubbles due to the gasses from the adhesive being released in a greater amount. "Read" your covering. It will usually give you an indication of when your heat is just right.View attachment 4105 Sheeted surfaces however can present a numerous amount of factors to be considered. A stripe or a different color upon first layer, seams, or just simple single layer such as sheeted wings or stabs, fin...etc, are really a little different story. I use my iron with the sock on it. So as to protect from dulling or scratches and what not. Typically warmer than just warm to the touch. Almost, but not quite hot. Kelly suggests 350 degrees. That is a good number but remember Ultracote will usually stretch or shrink at a much lower heat setting than Monokote. I use a "COOL" damp soft cloth. I will address the wrinkle, bubble or sun blister which ever it may be by applying the heat gently... smoothing from side to side to allow the covering to absorb the heat evenly. Moving my iron off the covering then gently "swiping" the damp cloth across the heated area will cause it to "SUCK" right back to the surface. The adhesive on the back side grabs ahold of the wooden structure and the dampened cloth cools the covering without allowing a new wrinkle or bubble. After the first season of hot summer sun and 50 flights, my 260 had developed some fairly sever "sun" wrinkles on both sides of the turtle deck and sheeted portions of the wings. Remembering this procedure from previous models that exhibited the same issues, I preformed the same procedure on the 260 with perfect results.

Hope this helps

YUP!