Anyone here really? What? A timing light just for us.

[Snoopy1]

Just so happens earlier today I was playing with it and tried it on the DLE 111 in the PAU Ultimate. The DLE was timed the normal way, at 28°, and ran just fine but when I lit it up with the timing light it was at 24° degree's. So I repositioned the Hall so that the 28° mark lined up with the light, then fired it up to see if there was any difference. I do not know for sure but it did feel like it had a little better throttle response.
I guess timing by hand places a different pull with the magnet than a higher speed pass. Or it could be that with the light it is instantaneous instead of watching for the plug to spark and then stopping rotation. All I know is I like this much better than the old way and as long as one put's the 28° mark at 28° it will indeed be dead on, not just close.

Acerc love what you have done I will most likely buy one or hassle you to get one. But going ask you a few questions first marking and trying to get two lines on a small diameter hub perfectly aligned can have some inaccuracy. If I can ask you if put a degree wheel on the front with pointer wire and then set up dead on zero or T D C and spin the motor with drill and see what you get.

 

[acerc]

Acerc love what you have done I will most likely buy one or hassle you to get one. But going ask you a few questions first marking and trying to get two lines on a small diameter hub perfectly aligned can have some inaccuracy. If I can ask you if put a degree wheel on the front with pointer wire and then set up dead on zero or T D C and spin the motor with drill and see what you get.

I disagree with the inaccuracy. I use the timing wheel (self made) and a wire on a clip. I find TDC via a bolt in the plug opening and the timing wheel with the wire clipped on the engine, then align the wheel's 0° or TDC with the wire. Now I will turn the engine clockwise until the wire is dead on the 28° line on the timing wheel. I take a straight edge (usually the end of a metal ruler) place it against the side of the prop hub across the engine nose and make a line with a Sharpie, now I have a mark on both sides at 28°.
As for spinning the engine and trying to see the wheel and wire, the wheel would be visible but the wire would not. Plus the vibration would likely move at the least the wire.

 

[Snoopy1]

I disagree with the inaccuracy. I use the timing wheel (self made) and a wire on a clip. I find TDC via a bolt in the plug opening and the timing wheel with the wire clipped on the engine, then align the wheel's 0° or TDC with the wire. Now I will turn the engine clockwise until the wire is dead on the 28° line on the timing wheel. I take a straight edge (usually the end of a metal ruler) place it against the side of the prop hub across the engine nose and make a line with a Sharpie, now I have a mark on both sides at 28°.
As for spinning the engine and trying to see the wheel and wire, the wheel would be visible but the wire would not. Plus the vibration would likely move at the least the wire.

Have to agree that is dead accurate like the method of how you did the line straight across cannot improve on that.

 

[acerc]

I just got off the phone with Milton at RC Extreme Power. The deal is the ignition is set to not fire if the hall sensor is activated slowly but the Hall sensor works as usual. In other words the spark plug will not fire like it did the old way of setting the timing. This timing light will work off of the Hall sensor like I have described. The Hall sensor tester will work the same as usual but one need's to remember it is when the light and buzzer goes off that the ignition fires not when the light and buzzer come's on.
I have used the old method, the Hall sensor method, but like this timing light the most.

 

[49dimes]

The "model engine" timing light is very nice. Could you post up a list of materials and a wiring diagram? Like you I would like to make my own.

 

[Snoopy1]

I just got off the phone with Milton at RC Extreme Power. The deal is the ignition is set to not fire if the hall sensor is activated slowly but the Hall sensor works as usual. In other words the spark plug will not fire like it did the old way of setting the timing. This timing light will work off of the Hall sensor like I have described. The Hall sensor tester will work the same as usual but one need's to remember it is when the light and buzzer goes off that the ignition fires not when the light and buzzer come's on.
I have used the old method, the Hall sensor method, but like this timing light the most.

Understand what you are explaining but how easy is to see the timing marks when it turns off. I guess you have to do to see how it works you really have me intrigued, because timing is very important to get the best performance from an engine.

 

[acerc]

Understand what you are explaining but how easy is to see the timing marks when it turns off. I guess you have to do to see how it works you really have me intrigued, because timing is very important to get the best performance from an engine.

If your doing it by hand it is not hard but it is not as accurate as turning it over around 250rpm. The Hall functions so quick at the elevated rpm it is nearly instant on/off. If I had to guess, and that is all I am doing, I'd have to say within hundredths of an inch. One will move more than that coming to a stop by hand with the light or the Hall sensor tester.

 

[Snoopy1]

If your doing it by hand it is not hard but it is not as accurate as turning it over around 250rpm. The Hall functions so quick at the elevated rpm it is nearly instant on/off. If I had to guess, and that is all I am doing, I'd have to say within hundredths of an inch. One will move more than that coming to a stop by hand with the light or the Hall sensor tester.

Acerc can you help trying to help a friend with a 84cc Saito. He is on his 3 ignition but absolutely no spark I think his pick up sensor on the engine is dead is there a quick way to check it. Thanks.

 

[acerc]

Acerc can you help trying to help a friend with a 84cc Saito. He is on his 3 ignition but absolutely no spark I think his pick up sensor on the engine is dead is there a quick way to check it. Thanks.

Yea, buy a Hall sensor tester.

 

[Stevendavis]

Here's a couple pics of my old CH timing light. I've used it on all my gas engines through the years. Sill use it to time DLE engines.