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Brand New PAU........Viper-ST Announced!!!!!!!!

Pistolera

HEY!..GET OUTTA MY TREE!
That is exactly how his is set up. I do mine the same way.
OK, cool....when Terry mentioned having it on a switch so one could quickly deactivate it, it made me think about a friend who didn't have any mix in his setup. When he inadvertently hit the switch during a low pass, you can guess what happened next! :(
 

pawnshopmike

Staff member
OK, cool....when Terry mentioned having it on a switch so one could quickly deactivate it, it made me think about a friend who didn't have any mix in his setup. When he inadvertently hit the switch during a low pass, you can guess what happened next! :(
Ouch.
 
I wanted to take a minute to talk about the gold hardware. I've had a lot of the PAU planes that we travel with and everywhere I go it seems someone asks me about it because it is different than what most ARF mfg's use. On most of my builds I use the G-10 horns but I have the ability to make my own after confirming the geometry. I have cut my own for ARF's before because many of them use a generic horn and I have found a few cases where the geometry is just plain wacky. With the threaded stud you have lots of adjustment to fine tune your geometry, especially when dealing with multiple servos on a single control surface. First thing people ask is "how well does it hold up", and my answer is extremely well. I have had a couple where the bushing gets a little sloppy from the shake of a DA120 after LOTS of hard flight time.

So here are some details and a few tips and options for you to add to your mental toolbox when using this hardware to get the best chance of success.
These are just some options to show the versatility of this hardware and different ways you can use it:

1 - It's not a bad idea to remove the screw and put a little blue locktite on the threads before installing on the plane. Tighten the screw, but not so tight that the ball link binds!!

2 - If you use Savox servos you undoubtedly have tossed these hardened black screws with the allen heads in the garbage a time or two. If you still have them they are wonderful to put in place of the stock screw because they are hardened and will last even longer.

3 - A little ahead here, but once you have your servos all set up in your plane and you are ready to fly, put a drop of thin CA where the push rod goes into the ball link. Since this is a metal to metal link that is not "tightened" it can be prone to vibrations. A drop of CA makes things all better. Threadlock would work but since you do this after adjustment, you don't want to un-thread it and thread it back on to risk messing up your perfectly matched servos.

4 - Another thing that I discovered after a little brain storming is that a Dubro ball link exactly fits the space of the stock gold link!!! This option also allows for a little side to side motion without the gold connector having to rotate on the threaded stud quite as much.

So you can see that this hardware is quite versatile to fit any application and user preference!

Just a general comet Terry. When putting loctite on the screw, and running it all thruthe ball link, when the loctite set up, it also sets up inside the ball link as well. Also, when inserting a screw with loctite on it, the loctite follows the threads going up towards the head of the screw. If you were to put a dab on the nut or whatever you are threading into, once you install your screw, the threads of the screw have no choice to push to loctite into the nut or retainer.

All food for thought. Not saying either is better, but an option. :)
 

jhelber08

70cc twin V2
I don't want to start a poll or anything, but I prefer one piece for sure.

The problem with one pieces, for me anyways, is they seem to warp more in the sun. All my planes with wooden hatches seem to be less problematic. Mounting these PAU canopies is really only a 15 minute job and is alot easier to repair than an all plastic 1 piece canopy.
 

Terryscustom

640cc Uber Pimp
Terry...one suggestion on the flaperon setup. I activate mine with a switch, BUT it's also mixed with the elevator....so they go up (or down) proportionally to the elevator movement. This way, you can easily fly away from anything by just releasing all or most of the elevator and adding power as needed....then flip the switch off.

Beautiful bird buddy!

I'm thinking of doing this with the throttle so if I throttle up the go up immediately. Still working on it but great tip!
 

Terryscustom

640cc Uber Pimp
@Terryscustom is the cowl baffling included in the ARF or did you do it custom?
BJ Swope

Yup, what Bunky said, baffling is highly dependent on the engine used. As an example my engine heads are offset opposite from DA heads. Baffling is easy to install. I use cardboard to make a template, trace and cut out your material, test fit. If the material is safe to use CA on I tack it in place with thick CA by putting glue on the edge of the baffle, spray accelerator on the cowl then push together. When done and happy I go over the edges and joints with goop in a syringe.
 
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