Covering questions
- Thread starter Flyingjon
- Start date
stangflyer
I like 'em "BIG"!
Yes, you can leave your control surfaces attached. I have done a number of complete recovers with the surfaces still attached. It is actually a very simple procedure. Just a little patience and it will look awesome.
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Flyingjon
70cc twin V2
Couple questions again. How is the best way to cover around control horns? Remove the little plate that aligns them so you can get covering under them?
I got to the "local" hobby shop (3 hrs away) and looked at covering options. I've been scared away from monokote by several experiences by members here so I planned on using ultracote, but I really like some of the color choices monokote has to offer. Could a guy do a full base layer of the main color in ultracote and then use the ammonia/Windex trick to apply the monokote over the top? I've been thinking about a ultracote yellow base with monokote metallic teal over the top.
I'm also a bit curious how/where/who can match some paint colors like this.
I got to the "local" hobby shop (3 hrs away) and looked at covering options. I've been scared away from monokote by several experiences by members here so I planned on using ultracote, but I really like some of the color choices monokote has to offer. Could a guy do a full base layer of the main color in ultracote and then use the ammonia/Windex trick to apply the monokote over the top? I've been thinking about a ultracote yellow base with monokote metallic teal over the top.
I'm also a bit curious how/where/who can match some paint colors like this.
stangflyer
I like 'em "BIG"!
I don't lift the alignment plate for the control horns. It is usually more of a task than it is worth. Also, if they are glued down really well, most times you will damage either the plate or the surface in which they are attached to. I lay my covering in place over the surface in an approximation of where it will be. I "slit" to allow for the horns and then slide the covering right down over the top of the horns. With my hobby knife, I cut around the plate so the covering will lay flat. Easy peasy.
I really have not mixed Monokote and Ultracote. So I can not say with all certainty but I would say there should be no problem. I can offer this however. Monokote trim solvent is awesome for adhering multiple layers of Monokote and Ultracote. A very...."VERY" light brushing of the area that will be "layered", will allow the top layer covering to adhere to the lower base layer. But once that sucker is down, you won't be getting it off. Just saying. For Ultracote, I use the Windex method only in very large areas that layers extend quite a ways. Otherwise, I usually lay down my top layer into place and tape it at both ends. Lifting and starting with one end with slow progress to the opposite end using lowered temperature on the iron will yield to a very nice bubble free layer.
Stripes usually go down with no problem. Larger areas take a "LOT" more patience. Just don't rush your work.
Home Depot usually has a very extensive selection of rattle can paints. My son used some on his PAU Edge recover job. It looked pretty good. But for a more professional look, go to your local paint store. They can usually match your paint with your covering, put it into a can and I have heard some say, the results are good. Just a suggestion on that though.
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Flyingjon
70cc twin V2
Well I've been working off and on over the last several days on this thing and now I have all the old ultra off. I used some filler on some dents, soaked a few cracks in the sheeting with CA, and have most of the rough sanding done. There was just a bit of tackiness on parts of the wood from glue residue that didn't sand very easily, so I used the hairspray trick to stiffen it up and let it dry and then sanded it again. Worked like a charm.
I decided to rehinge the elevators as there was a hinge or three loose. I used a soldering iron to melt the old ones out, and will drill them out oversize so I can plug them with a dowel and then drill them so the hinge fits tight. Still trying to decide if I should try to do the ailerons...
Covering should be here middle of next week with the holiday and all and I should be ready for it by then. Feel free to critique, comment or suggest; it's my first stab at this so....
I decided to rehinge the elevators as there was a hinge or three loose. I used a soldering iron to melt the old ones out, and will drill them out oversize so I can plug them with a dowel and then drill them so the hinge fits tight. Still trying to decide if I should try to do the ailerons...
Covering should be here middle of next week with the holiday and all and I should be ready for it by then. Feel free to critique, comment or suggest; it's my first stab at this so....
stangflyer
I like 'em "BIG"!
From what you've said this far, you're doing great. Excited to see your finAL result. I'm sure it look simply awesome.
Flyingjon
70cc twin V2
From what you've said this far, you're doing great. Excited to see your finAL result. I'm sure it look simply awesome.
I sure hope it turns out somewhat like I envisioned!
I finally got all the aileron hinges and rudder hinges removed. Now I need to get over to @ericrs and use some of his tools![emoji3] I need a good bit to drill the holes for the hinge hole plug. Then I'll plug them with a piece of dowel and drill them for a snug fit for the new hinges. What's the preferred adhesive for flying Robart hinge points in? I've got some gorilla glue I was thinking of using.
stangflyer
I like 'em "BIG"!
I use good ole Epoxy myself. Haven't had one come loose yet.
pawnshopmike
Staff member
The last couple I hinged I used Loctite Go2 Glue. It has a nice pointy tip for filling the holes and plenty of working time. Before I used it I glued up a test hinge in a piece of balsa and there was no way in hell I could pull it apart without breaking the hinge or the balsa. So far so good. No failures yet.
