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3D Covering???

stangflyer

I like 'em "BIG"!
I set it on 2 1/2 using a iron
Actually that is a pretty good temp for "SEALING" the edges. Maybe a little hotter than I use. But it will work for that. When you go to your main surface, lower your heat to just above the 2. That would be with either the Coverite or Top Flite Iron.
 

stangflyer

I like 'em "BIG"!
Letting you all in on a little trick I learned. Maybe some of you do it, or have done it, maybe you know about it. I dampen a soft terrycloth towel or rag with cool water. Wring it out so it is not dripping wet. Chase the iron with the cool cloth. Since the covering has already been heated in that area and stretched, you want to cool it. Doing this "sucks" that covering right down on the surface.
 

stangflyer

I like 'em "BIG"!
Do you tack the edges and then use a heat gun for everything else?
Typically what I do is tack an edge. Preferably the leading edge of a wing for example. "PULL" that stuff tight, (less stretching to worry about later)...tack down the trailing edge. Reduce the heat on the iron and work it around all edges and making paths through the entire surface. If you end up with any wrinkles in corners, which usually you will have... That is the time to either turn up the heat a little on the iron for "JUST" that area and work it out. Or you can use your heat gun. I like using my heat gun on open construction as it allows for variances in "stretch". Try to keep in mind that too much heat, either from an iron or a heat gun will concentrate heat on solid construction with no place for the gasses to escape. Hence wrinkles. Wrinkles are basically gasses trapped under the covering with no way to escape. Keeping the iron at a lower temp allows the adhesive to activate without creating gasses that create bubbles that turn into wrinkles.
 

Jlc

70cc twin V2
I'mrecovering a plane and going back with the same scheme. What is the best material to build templates out of?
 
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