IMAC Delro 2.5M Raven Build
- Thread starter Wacobipe
- Start date
Wacobipe
100cc
I just checked that...with the canopy line level the wing has a -1 degree of incidence...and I can't see that being what Delro intended...but this is assuming the canopy line represents the zero incidence line, and I don't think there is any reason it has to. Since you set the incidence of everything on this plane to your liking (firewall, tail, and wing) you can make anything you like be the master for setting incidence.
Jlc
70cc twin V2
Okay. I didn't think the wing incidence would be very easy to change and stay matched up with the molded fuselage.
Kevin-Young
70cc twin V2
Agreed!
The Delro's and Exclusiv Modelbau stuff was always really nice. I got to check them out pretty well when I worked at DA and always found they had some ingenious ideas on how to do certain things.
Kevin-Young
70cc twin V2
duplicate
Wacobipe
100cc
e
I agree Kevin...I am really impressed...and there is no adjusting the wing...but the tail incidence has no reference (and the firewall does not either) so these can be placed anywhere the builder wishes...
Wacobipe
100cc
I have been getting a lot done this holiday season but not posting much, so here is an update - more to come.
The Delro kit has many very nice ideas and one of the ones I really like is the way in which hatches are attached. The hatch shown here is the main Engine bay hatch (this kit has no cowl - the entire nose is molded into the fuse and access to the engine bay is from below through this hatch. Shown here:
The Delro kit has many very nice ideas and one of the ones I really like is the way in which hatches are attached. The hatch shown here is the main Engine bay hatch (this kit has no cowl - the entire nose is molded into the fuse and access to the engine bay is from below through this hatch. Shown here:
Wacobipe
100cc
The cool idea is that Delro provides these little aluminum sleeves that you epoxy into place. These sleeved provide a solid metal surface for the bolts to tighten up against, and provide a very tidy countersink.
Once epoxied in, you simply cut the excess tube off, then sand flush with the surrounding surfaces...a good way I've found to do this without damaging the surrounding surfaces is to mask off the surrounding areas which allows the sanding paper to smooth the high spots without cutting into the surrounding surfaces!
Once epoxied in, you simply cut the excess tube off, then sand flush with the surrounding surfaces...a good way I've found to do this without damaging the surrounding surfaces is to mask off the surrounding areas which allows the sanding paper to smooth the high spots without cutting into the surrounding surfaces!
