Desert Aircraft Owners
- Thread starter mooneyrocket
- Start date
ericrs
70cc twin V2
I am having a problem with my DA 50. When it sits and idles, it slowly idles lower and lower till it finally dies. I have messed around with all kinds of different needle settings and nothing seems to help. It runs great at any other speed. I am sorta new to these motors, and am kind a frustrated with it that nothing that I do seems to help. Any help would be much appreciated.
Eric, is the fuel brand new? or is it old fuel. The DA motors can be erratic if the fuel is old. Also, is this a brand new motor, or is it a motor that you have flown before, and now that season is starting, it is giving you problems?
Tell us more about your set up, plugs, fuel, fuel lines, tank, clunk, etc...
also, what about the ignition, is it battery powered or do you have an IBEC. are the batteries old? Also, what is the status of the CDI boot and the cable, all these things, let us know.
Has the motor ever been sent in to DA, ever been in a crash, etc...
Tell us more about your set up, plugs, fuel, fuel lines, tank, clunk, etc...
also, what about the ignition, is it battery powered or do you have an IBEC. are the batteries old? Also, what is the status of the CDI boot and the cable, all these things, let us know.
Has the motor ever been sent in to DA, ever been in a crash, etc...
Ohio AV8TOR
Just Do It
Just saw this thread and maybe a good place to ask a question for my new DA-70. I would like to cut off the Powerpole connector and solder a short servo extension to connect to my Tech Aero IBEC, does this void the DA ignition warranty? What have you guys done.
ericrs
70cc twin V2
The fuel was just mixed right before I started working with it. I bought this motor used, and I think it just came back from DA before I bought it. I have flown it a couple times a few days earlier and it would always die when I would land. I just set it up in a new plane with all new fuel lines. I am running a fortitude tank. NGK cm6 plug. New pulse lipo batteries running through a fromeco wolverine switch than through a Tech-Aero IBEC. The CDI boot and cable look good to me, but than I may not know what looks bad.
Ok Ohio, here it is.
I have one of these bad boys in my EF 91" yak.
this is what i did:
the power pole connector has another end and that hooks up to the power supply via whatever (kills switch/ignition battery/IBEC/Optical/spark-switch, etc...).
what I did was obtain a JR type plug and used a crimper and made my own connection. This plugs into my IBEC and it works great.
I do not know if it would void your warranty, but in general, anything that may one day end up going back to them or if you want to sell, it is best if you leave it in the stock condition.
I have one of these bad boys in my EF 91" yak.
this is what i did:
the power pole connector has another end and that hooks up to the power supply via whatever (kills switch/ignition battery/IBEC/Optical/spark-switch, etc...).
what I did was obtain a JR type plug and used a crimper and made my own connection. This plugs into my IBEC and it works great.
I do not know if it would void your warranty, but in general, anything that may one day end up going back to them or if you want to sell, it is best if you leave it in the stock condition.
How is the transition from low to high throttle? is it fast and without hesitation?
Is it rough?
Does it seem to 4 stroke in the midrange?
here is from the manual, DA 50 r:
- Needle Adjustments
- The needle farthest from the motor is the “High End” needle. The needle closest to motor is the “Low End” needle. Turning the needles in/clockwise “leans” the fuel mixture. Turning the needles out/counter-clockwise “richens” the fuel mixture.
- Settings will vary with altitude, temperature, humidity, fuel, carb variances, etc. A "general" starting point for the DA50 is: 1 5/8’s open on the Low needle, 1 7/8’s open on the High needle.
- Adjusting either needle can have a slight effect on the other. Example: Leaning the low needle can "slightly" lean the high rpm range.
- Adjust the High End needle to peak rpm. A tachometer can help, but remember that the RPM normally drops a little bit after every start due to residual heat build up. Don’t lean the mixture any more than necessary. If the rpm steadily drops at full throttle or fades on long vertical maneuvers, the motor is too lean and is overheating.
- The needle farthest from the motor is the “High End” needle. The needle closest to motor is the “Low End” needle. Turning the needles in/clockwise “leans” the fuel mixture. Turning the needles out/counter-clockwise “richens” the fuel mixture.
- Adjust the Low End needle until you achieve a smooth idle and a reliable transition to high throttle. Generally if the motor “stutters” or “coughs” in the mid range or when the throttle is advanced, the low end needle is too rich and possibly even the high end needle. If the motor dies quickly, the low end is probably lean.
- Don't set the needles overly rich to protect the engine. Operating the motor overly rich not only reduces power, it creates other problems such as poor transition, pre-mature carbon build up, fouled plugs, excessive exhaust residue, sticking rings, airframe vibration, and overall rough running.