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DLE 35 RA Mods- Reed Valve, Bowman Ring, Single Post prop adapter

dth7

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
Switched to Ultra mix at 40:1 with no tuning. Stihl (pun intended lol) ripping the Lam Xoar 20x6. And Hover 20x6. Tried Xoar sword 20x8- too much pitch and too wide. Also the Falcon 20x7, ok but I prefer the Lam Xoar. Still tweaking the throttle curve too. Had one engine failure the other day on a poptop. Successful (no damage) recovery, restart and flight. Best reason we could figure was crazy hot and humid (100 degrees and about 98% humidity) and may have had the idle a little low. Other than that little hiccup the 35 has been fantastic. Starts are averaging 1-2 flips hit and stop 2 w choke then 1-2 choke off. Even had a half flip the other day! Stuck on dead center and just nudged it, vroom ! Might have to try a 21x6 if someone has one lying around.
 
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dth7

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
Cody gave me some help tuning up the 35 the other day after another deadstick since changing to synthetic 40:1 mix. On the Xoar 20x6 Lam and the ES 30 CF pipe I'm getting about 8250 rpm with real smooth transition. Still tweaking low and high idle and the throttle curve. Also bouncing between lam and Cf Hover 20x6. Experimenting with Falcon 20x7 too. 20x6 seems to give nice overall performance.
 

3dNater

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
Does it fly as fast as you want it to on the 6 pitch prop? I really liked the 19x8. I wanted to run a 20x8 but decided the motor didn't like it as I couldn't quite get into the max power band with it. I never tried it after the motor was really broken in though. Now I am waiting for another project to put the 35 on since the slick is RIP.
 

gyro

GSN Contributor
Does it fly as fast as you want it to on the 6 pitch prop? I really liked the 19x8. I wanted to run a 20x8 but decided the motor didn't like it as I couldn't quite get into the max power band with it. I never tried it after the motor was really broken in though. Now I am waiting for another project to put the 35 on since the slick is RIP.

Sorry about the slick Nate. Maybe try an Aerobeez or Redwing?
 

3dNater

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
Sorry about the slick Nate. Maybe try an Aerobeez or Redwing?

I plan to at some point. Right now I have another home brew project in the works. Ill probably do a build thread when it gets going.
 

dth7

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
Does it fly as fast as you want it to on the 6 pitch prop? I really liked the 19x8. I wanted to run a 20x8 but decided the motor didn't like it as I couldn't quite get into the max power band with it. I never tried it after the motor was really broken in though. Now I am waiting for another project to put the 35 on since the slick is RIP.

I find the pipe and added 800 rpm really helped. It gets up and goes. I'm trying to find a good power band for the 3d but keep it versatile enough to fly high energy and IMAC. The 6 seems to do it all.

Note, 20x7 Falcon is working now that the engine is better tuned. Really moves on the 7 pitch.
 
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ghoffman

70cc twin V2
Not! With proper preparation it is a normal thing to "charge, fuel, flip and fly". Notice that the Pratt and Whitney logo does not say most powerful, rather they use "Dependable". That is the biggest thing to me, I need the practice flying, not fixing. Pratt-Whitney-logo.jpg
 

3dNater

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
I'm confused too...

Also, it should be noted that you can have power and dependability. I don't want to compromise on either one ;)
 

dth7

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
DLE choke pushrod issues. I've gone through two pushrods so far? First was 2-56 rod threaded at one end with a ball link at the choke arm. It was long- all the way to front of cowl with a little loop to grab. After about 2 gals it sheared at the guide built into the engine block. Next I used the same size rod (can't get any bigger through guide and doesn't look like there is enough room to drill it out more without compromising the case). I made it shorter with an L bend only. That one sheared after only several flights. I just put on a "hybrid". From choke arm going forward- ball link, threaded piece of 2-56, short piece of golden rod CAed and heat shrinked to a small CF rod. Through guide to another piece of golden rod to grab. It seems to function ok but I don't know how it will hold up to the vibration and the friction I working in and out of cast guide. Next (hopefully not but confidence is not high!) will be a home made guide mounted to one of the mounting bolts at the standoff lined with tubing for dampening.
Any other thoughts. It's possible to reach into the cowl from underneath but I don't want to do that all the time.
Thanks.
 
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