Drilling out hinge points

[TnAeroNut]

I think I'll try that.

 

[Naughty Monkey]

You can also use a syringe to inject epoxy. Make sure the play is not in the actual hinge though, I have had that problem more often than the point loosening up.

 

[Luchnia]

I use a soldering iron and works great. You sort of develop a technique after you do enough that works easy.

 

[flycanic]

Why go through all that work? I just cut off the old and install the new hinge next to the old ones I cut off. Much easier and takes less repair time. That's my 2 cents worth. I have done the other methods also. Drill, solder Iron. I have even sharpened the end of a brass tube just large enough to go over the pin hinge push in and remove. but just moving right next to the old cut off one's and installing the new works best for me

 

[Jetpainter]

My reason for not doing that is on an ARF like an Aeroworks there is a balsa block on the back side that the hinge goes into. If you move the hinge you would miss the balsa block. It's easy enough to add in an open bay, but when it's sheeted you can't do that.

 

[ghoffman]

One of the guys at our field said he used a hot soldering iron of about the same diameter as the hinge and melted the hinge out. Sounds messy, but might be worth a try.

That is what I do. The tapered soldering iron tip goes in about 1/2 inch, then you can drill it out with the correct size drill after it cools down.

 

[AEROSHELDON]

The soldering iron works great for me, but you might not get a second chance to do it in the basement--it STINKS.

Ask me know I know....

 

[BalsaDust]

The soldering iron works great for me, but you might not get a second chance to do it in the basement--it STINKS.

Ask me know I know....

Yeah I used that method to get them all out of that 33% edge540 I'm working on. It does stink.

 

[flycanic]

My reason for not doing that is on an ARF like an Aeroworks there is a balsa block on the back side that the hinge goes into. If you move the hinge you would miss the balsa block. It's easy enough to add in an open bay, but when it's sheeted you can't do that.

Maybe One thing I should have mentioned, if you watch what you are doing and not move the hinge point to far from the bad ones you will not miss the blocks in an arf like an AeroWorks or any other arf the blocks are larger than you think. Done them a few times, mostly on the rudder.When doing an awesome wall I judge the ground clearance very close, and try to just miss the rudder hitting the ground by inches some times I miss judge LOL In fact on a couple older AeroWorks arfs when doing the repair have found after removing the surface needing the repair where the missed the added blocks completely.

 

[BalsaDust]

Maybe One thing I should have mentioned, if you watch what you are doing and not move the hinge point to far from the bad ones you will not miss the blocks in an arf like an AeroWorks or any other arf the blocks are larger than you think. Done them a few times, mostly on the rudder.When doing an awesome wall I judge the ground clearance very close, and try to just miss the rudder hitting the ground by inches some times I miss judge LOL

The hanger 9 33% Edge I'm doing the blocks are only about 3/4" long so it wasn't enough.