pawnshopmike
Staff member
Looking good Blake.
Gas can all done..
- Thread starter mustangman40
- Start date
mustangman40
50cc
The new can Worked flawlessly, no leaks and filled 32oz tank in 76 seconds... 
Taildraggerrc
70cc twin V2
mustangman40;18340 wrote: The new can Worked flawlessly, no leaks and filled 32oz tank in 76 seconds...
awesome!
The pumps are back in stock.Hurry they don't last long!
stangflyer
I like 'em "BIG"!
Cool idea... Except Glow (shudder) is of a much different chemical make up than gasoline. typically glow fuel works pretty well with some things. Regular pump gas on the other hand can be quite damaging to plastic, right? Also, is the pump isolated so that fumes can not get into the electric brushed motor? I am really just curious. Looks like a great idea, just leary of gasoline and brushed open to the atmosphere electric motors.
49dimes
Damn I'm hungry
The pump is resin formed polycarbonate plastic and it is a "sealed" housing to prevent air and vapors from entering the motor.
No gears here...Impeller. The geared pumps are positive displacement and normally self prime very easily. Centrifugal impellers used in this pump do cause a low suction head to develop and therefore prime themselves as long as the gas can is vented to atmosphere and the suction head does not exceed 4" or so in height. The impeller itself is nylon and will withstand ( like the polycarb housing) harsh detergents such as alcohol, benzenes, petroleum distillates. I have a 2.5 gallon can that I used to trial this pump and it has performed well for over 2 years being submersed inside the can ( first filled with kerosene (1month) and then gasoline going on over 2 years). I [SIZE= 13px]expressly[/SIZE] do not recommend anyone to trial as I did for the very reasons you mention (volatile vapor). The pump unit does hold up and I want to make one where there is no current flow inside the can. I have made apparatus specifically for my trial pump that limits how current is applied to the motor and prevent arcing. As I stated earlier with the impeller; self prime is the obstacle to over come here for centrifugal impellers normally need a positive suction head to work. My Alcohol version performs quite well. Once I am finished with the gas version I will post it.
No gears here...Impeller. The geared pumps are positive displacement and normally self prime very easily. Centrifugal impellers used in this pump do cause a low suction head to develop and therefore prime themselves as long as the gas can is vented to atmosphere and the suction head does not exceed 4" or so in height. The impeller itself is nylon and will withstand ( like the polycarb housing) harsh detergents such as alcohol, benzenes, petroleum distillates. I have a 2.5 gallon can that I used to trial this pump and it has performed well for over 2 years being submersed inside the can ( first filled with kerosene (1month) and then gasoline going on over 2 years). I [SIZE= 13px]expressly[/SIZE] do not recommend anyone to trial as I did for the very reasons you mention (volatile vapor). The pump unit does hold up and I want to make one where there is no current flow inside the can. I have made apparatus specifically for my trial pump that limits how current is applied to the motor and prevent arcing. As I stated earlier with the impeller; self prime is the obstacle to over come here for centrifugal impellers normally need a positive suction head to work. My Alcohol version performs quite well. Once I am finished with the gas version I will post it.
49dimes, i have a pump similar to yours. i made it myself, and i made it so that the lipo battery was inside the black Radio Shack box.
after two years, i decided to give that pump away to my friend, and i removed the battery from inside, and wow!! is all i can say, and not wow in a good way. my 3s battery was puffed up, kind of looked like a puffer fish.
my point being, be sure to remove that battery when you charge it and inspect it regularly. Had that battery blown, i am certain i would have been toast. good thing is i keep my gas tank inside my trailer, which means i would have lost my airplanes, but not my house.
ok, so now, i gave that pump (minus battery) to my friend, and i told him to get some velcro with a velcro strap, and to install the battery on the outside.
then, i purchased a pump from Aztech RC.
and now, i wish i had my old pump back.
the old pump was from Graves RC and cost under 30 dollars.
the old pump was louder, but it was real fast!
the new pump is way quiet, but not as fast in filling my tanks.
Since July, i have gone thru 10 gallons of gasoline.
this past Sunday, i went to the club to fly my airplane, and i was able to get only 2 flights in, as i was out of gasoline ;(
so yesterday, i built me a back up tank, another 5 gallon tank....
it is not electric either. this way, if either i run out of gas, or something happens to the pump, i will still be able to fly or finish off in a competition.
that is a 10 dollar filter from Lowes, and i also have a filter on the fuel line going from the dot to the tank in the airplane.
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49dimes
Damn I'm hungry
Hey Ortho,
You are absolutely correct about the Lipo safety. Everything is mounted to the cover and it is easily removed. I have used a brand new nano tech pack from you know where. As a matter of fact the only batteries I use now are the nano techs. They do not seem to want to swell like other older generation packs but your argument is a real good one. I guess the fire that lithium substrate creates would be classified as a "D" or Delta. Class D fires normally have to burn themselves out because the ignition source is "built in" chemically. Class "C" fires or electrical are also a concern as well as class "B" Oil/Gas and class "A" fires which leave ash are normally a result from other classes of fires starting them.
The most serious fire of all is the class "SA" or Screaming Alpha. This is when my fat ass is on fire!
.
You are absolutely correct about the Lipo safety. Everything is mounted to the cover and it is easily removed. I have used a brand new nano tech pack from you know where. As a matter of fact the only batteries I use now are the nano techs. They do not seem to want to swell like other older generation packs but your argument is a real good one. I guess the fire that lithium substrate creates would be classified as a "D" or Delta. Class D fires normally have to burn themselves out because the ignition source is "built in" chemically. Class "C" fires or electrical are also a concern as well as class "B" Oil/Gas and class "A" fires which leave ash are normally a result from other classes of fires starting them.
The most serious fire of all is the class "SA" or Screaming Alpha. This is when my fat ass is on fire!
.
stangflyer
I like 'em "BIG"!
Hmmm!!! Pretty cool...!!!!
49dimes
Damn I'm hungry
This is my "trial" pump and controller. Controller contains battery, 350ma fast blow fuse, normally open momentary contact push switch, power lead w/ Deans connector, balance and charge jacks. The wire connecting the pump motor is 18 guage stranded copper with oil / gas resistant insulation. The battery is 1000ma nano tech. The pics are genuine as of today and this is 2years old. I can not de-fuel with this set up but then I normally leave fuel in the tank anyway. I just do not like the fact that electrons and petrol can light it up.
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