Discussion How I prep for smoke!

[acerc]

Here is how I get the most out of smoke. One first needs to install Bad Dog smoke nozzles, there is no better way to inject the oil. After that I start by wrapping the header or can numerous times with 1/8" soft copper tubing, in this example there is 26 inches of copper tubing on each header. I like to start the tubing where the oil will be going in and at he end fold it back over to the same point, this gives more tubing for the oil. Pic #1
Then I wrap the tube with automotive exhaust wrap and secure it with stainless steel zip ties, just enough to hold the exhaust wrap securely. Usually one on each end and one in the middle is more than enough. Pic#2
Next I cover the exhaust wrap with exhaust tape. This tape is not necessary but holds the exhaust wrap long enough for it to form itself to the header. I learned the exhaust wrap formed to the exhaust when I had to make a repair. Pic #3
I use some normal zip ties on the tape to hold it securely until it has been heated, heating activates the adhesive. Pic#4
And lastly the exhaust assembled and ready for use. #5

I have measured temps under this type of wrap up to 500°. This really aids in running less oil and having no residue on an airframe.

 

[AKNick]

Nicely done, and thanks for posting. I've wondered if anyone had tried brazing the copper pipe onto the exhaust for a more permanent installation, considering the metallurgy of stainless, aluminum, and copper, I don't know if it's possible.

I've tried wrapping copper tube in a small radius and it is very hard. (like inside a saito 100 muffler), you can crimp/seal off an end of the tube and fill it with liquid (like dump the coil in a bucket of water and give some time for the air to escape...or use something that dissolves easily. This way you can wrap it and it wont collapse the tube.

You're right about the residue, the hotter the oil, the less residue! I always feared that the vibration would cause for a loose connection and make a mess at some point. Never thought about staginess steel zip ties.

Which pump are you using? The Holy Smokes pumps seem to be sought after these days. Powerbox makes a nice unit, a little heavy though. For some reason it appears powerbox isn't being sold anymore at my favorite rc sites... not sure why.
http://www.holysmokesrc.com/products.html
https://powerbox-americas.com/collections/smoke-systems/products/powerbox-smokepump

 

[dhal22]

I should do a smoke system someday...............

 

[acerc]

Before using the SS zip ties I used 100% silicon, just filled in and around the tubeing and wiped fairly smooth, the SS ties came into play when I bought the exhaust wrap. I have three different pumps currently in play, Sullivan, HolySmokes, and the Powerbox. I believe the Powerbox to be the best, much smoother, a lower available speed, and draws less power. There are a number of places here in the states to get one, Northwest RC, Chief Aircraft, AJ Aircraft, and Aircraft International just to name a few. As it currently stands I have not had to wipe an airframe down due to smoke oil in many years. And thanks to the Bad Dog nozzles, along with my pre-heating, oil consumption is relatively low. I can remember my first go with smoke, a 32oz tank lasted only a couple minutes and I had to clean the airframe every time like I was running glow.
By the way, this tubing is soft copper, very bendable by hand.

 

[Hinckley Bill]

Here is how I get the most out of smoke. One first needs to install Bad Dog smoke nozzles, there is no better way to inject the oil. After that I start by wrapping the header or can numerous times with 1/8" soft copper tubing, in this example there is 26 inches of copper tubing on each header. I like to start the tubing where the oil will be going in and at he end fold it back over to the same point, this gives more tubing for the oil. Pic #1
Then I wrap the tube with automotive exhaust wrap and secure it with stainless steel zip ties, just enough to hold the exhaust wrap securely. Usually one on each end and one in the middle is more than enough. Pic#2
Next I cover the exhaust wrap with exhaust tape. This tape is not necessary but holds the exhaust wrap long enough for it to form itself to the header. I learned the exhaust wrap formed to the exhaust when I had to make a repair. Pic #3
I use some normal zip ties on the tape to hold it securely until it has been heated, heating activates the adhesive. Pic#4
And lastly the exhaust assembled and ready for use. #5

I have measured temps under this type of wrap up to 500°. This really aids in running less oil and having no residue on an airframe.

Robert,

The guy who taught me how to fly in '79 used that same technique on a Byron's Pitts belt-drive setup.......his smoke was truly heavy-duty and he had little, if any, residual oil on his airframe. The nice thing about your setup is that as the pre-heat temperatures get hotter you should be able to experiment with other, less expensive oils, to make the smoke! Thanks for sharing
Bill

 

[acerc]

Robert,

The guy who taught me how to fly in '79 used that same technique on a Byron's Pitts belt-drive setup.......his smoke was truly heavy-duty and he had little, if any, residual oil on his airframe. The nice thing about your setup is that as the pre-heat temperatures get hotter you should be able to experiment with other, less expensive oils, to make the smoke! Thanks for sharing
Bill

I really did not think I was the first to think of preheating or insulating it, just thought I'd post about it for those that had not seen it. I think Bad Dog is showing this copper wrap on his site now. As for mixing my own, well, I don't really care to be playing with mixing oils and other stuff. There a number of oils locally available, within driving distance. Here is the local oils, Aeroshell @ $17 per gallon-sold by a 5 gallon bucket, Robart @ $24 gal., Sullivan @ $35, and the RedOil from Chief @ $60 per 3 liters. I run the AeroShell most of the time simply for the cost, but, for an event and to truly crank out some wicked smoke it is the RedOil. The RedOil is by far the absolute best oil, very thick pume, very low pump rate, and literally absolutely no residue anywhere, but it is expensive for everyday smoking.

 

[Snoopy1]

Thanks for sharing that interesting how you do it. I can now see why you have very little or none off the residue on your planes. The heating and the nozzle is the secret to burning all the oil, and also cutting back on the flow at low rpm. Nice job.

 

[Hinckley Bill]

I really did not think I was the first to think of preheating or insulating it, just thought I'd post about it for those that had not seen it. I think Bad Dog is showing this copper wrap on his site now. As for mixing my own, well, I don't really care to be playing with mixing oils and other stuff. There a number of oils locally available, within driving distance. Here is the local oils, Aeroshell @ $17 per gallon-sold by a 5 gallon bucket, Robart @ $24 gal., Sullivan @ $35, and the RedOil from Chief @ $60 per 3 liters. I run the AeroShell most of the time simply for the cost, but, for an event and to truly crank out some wicked smoke it is the RedOil. The RedOil is by far the absolute best oil, very thick pume, very low pump rate, and literally absolutely no residue anywhere, but it is expensive for everyday smoking.

Robert...sorry wasn't downgrading your post, was very glad to see that you shared the method with everyone.....was sharing the experience I had with that method working even on a much smaller scale (byro-drive powered only by an OS 61)....Bill

 

[AKNick]

This is a Mad Dog nozzle with a powerbox smoke pump on a DLE35RA.
I would like to preheat because of the oily mess the current setup has.



Had a coworker goober some more metal onto the thin muffler. It’s been holding up well.
Sullivan skysmoke

 

[acerc]

Hey @Hinckley Bill, I would never think that. I was just commenting on how I am sure I was not first, probably at anything in this hobby, as it has been around a long time with much smarter people than me at it.