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LamYak 40 Scratch build

3DNinja

30cc
View attachment dec_14_wildfredyak.pdf Here are the blueprints if anyone wants to build one.

Ok, here is a 3D plane im scratch building for a buddy of mine. I wont mention his name but it starts with Snow and ends with Dog:) This is a plane that was designed by Ron Ferrier (AKA Wild Fred). I contacted him and asked if I could post this build on here and he said no problem, I also asked if I could post the blueprints on here and was told that would be fine as well. I have built a few of these thus far and I can tell you that it is one of the most fun 3D planes that you will ever have the privilage to fly, not to mention very durable and affordable. So sit back and enjoy this:popcorn:, as I built this from blueprint (no kit).

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The first step is to cut two airplane kits, build one of them and give the other one to your buddy. After about 6 months or so harass your buddy about him not building his yet, then agree to build it for him:) Ok so lay all your parts out and cover your prints with wax paper over the build table, I used the pink foam from Home Depot on my table so I can pin the parts to. Crack open a beer and study the prints. Remember this is a scratch build so if you want to make any mods to the origional design, this is the time to plan it out.
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Since i did this months before, I wanted to show you just how I cut the parts out using the blueprints. Fiirst, trace them onto wax paper. Then use some spray adhesive to apply them to the wood to be cut (also apply to multiple peices of wood so as to cut duplicats ie right and left side ribs). This is a temporary glue up and is to be removed after you cut the tracing out and seperate the duplicate parts. I Cut the tracings out with a scroll saw but it can also be cut with a #11 Exacto blade. This is rapidly becoming a lost art due the the ARF planes being more in demand, but is not hard to do. Before long you have a kit.
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Glue up nose/engine mount block and dont be afraid to use clamps! A strong airplane depends on a good glue joint. All the glue in the world will not make up for a bad glue joint. I glued up some duplicate parts I cut to make up the thickness i needed since I did not have the correct size wood (so I improvised:))
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Now here is a unique part of the design of this plane, there is a 1/2 inch hollow tube running through the center of the wing and the length of the fuse. We must build the inboard wing ribs to allow a channel for this tube to fit.
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Now comes building the wing. Yay! I love building wings!:bouncy: Basically, you build your main spar and doubler on the plans and place them onto the wing prints with the bottom main spar bending up from the table. This will allow for the wing taper when you start laying down the ribs. Assemble all the ribs upper and lower spar in place and square it all up on the trailing edge so you will have a nice straight hinge line, then glue it all together ensuring that the ribs are all pinned down to the table. Glue the leading edge to both wing halves.
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Now I glued the wing sheeting from the leading edge to the main spars although the prints are olny shown sheeted up to the sub spars. Glue the LE of the sheeting to the LE spar with CA, then moisten the sheeting with water and form it around the profile of the ribs. I like to use Tite Bond wood glue for this since it gives me time to work the sheeting. Again clamp it like theres no tomorrow! Remember that the olny good glue joint is a tight one! Remove from the building table and sheet the other side.130221_0002.jpg

Build the ailerons to the Prints. Notice the "dog eared" tips. This is so you dont rip them off as easily on those low high AOA knife edge circuits, or clipping them on rolling harriers done the right way:eek:

Now we have built the nose block, wing and ailerons!:thumbup: More to come.
 

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SnowDog

Moderator
Craig, this is an awesome build log. Really great pictures and explanations. The guy for whom you are building this plane is one lucky guy. ;)
 
Nice Job and Nice work 3DNinja !!!! that guy Snow uhhh errr hmmm Dog, is really a lucky guy I'll be watching it come together for sure
 

3DNinja

30cc
Thank you SnowDog and Waldopepperaxel for the kind comments. Last night after work I finished her up so she is ready for crash testing!;) I think she turned out pretty cool looking. I will try to post the final build pics and comments today. I hope you enjoy it SnowDog, and I will give her to ya tonight at the meeting. I was able do do the basic high rates with expo setup with your TX last night but was unable to finish the other flight modes due to your TX battery going dead. At least the linkage geometry is correct and you can hover it in the parking lot under the lights tonight:cool:
 

SnowDog

Moderator
Thanks Craig, can't wait to see it tonight at the meeting. I'm surprised that the TX battery went dead...that's a Life battery that usually lasts a long time, and I think the radio has a shutoff after not being in use.
Anyway, it's all good, I can charge it when I get home.
I'm sure I will enjoy it! and crash it! and fix it...and enjoy it even more!
:grrreat:
 

3DNinja

30cc
130305_0001.jpg130305_0004.jpg130305_0005.jpg130226_0001.jpg130304_0001.jpg130305_0002.jpgBuild the elevator over the plans pinning it down as you do. For this I used thin CA and wicked the peices together, this makes a strong bond (assuming you made a good joint) and is fast. Notice that I did not build the air ballances into the elevator, I did this because they offer no change in flight performance that i can notice and that they just rip off on the upright low harriers and harrier landing (see, always thinking:) )Build the stabilizer over the plans pinning the stick down, then remove the stabilizer and sheet both sides with 1/16 inch sheeting (i used alot of contest grade sheeting on this plane). Construct the rudder over the plans in the same manner of the elevator. Bevel the leading edge of all the control surfaces so to allow 45 to 50 degrees of deflection in both directions.
The fuse is constructed over the plans allowing for the 1/2 inch fiberglass tube to run through the middle (This is the secret to not snapping the plane in half when banging the rudder on the ground) remember the channel we allowed for in the center ribs? The section of tube that does not attach to the fuse goes through the wing and nose block. I used 3/8 inch stock for the fuse and have a half inch OD tube, so I shimed up the fuse 1/16th of an inch and constructed a box as the tube will be glued in, for this i used elmers brand of gorrilla glue (be carefull, because it expands alot).

Get a pic of a plane that your buddy wants it look like, drink some beer and cover it completely different:) Now I covered the base colors, MonoKote yellow and missile red. Still unassembled airframe at this point, meaning that the wing is not installed and the stabilizer not attached.
Heres a cool trick, to put MonoKote trim over covering (and i belive this olney works with MonoKote) spray windex with "ammonia" over glass. Then put your covering over the glass and windex to hold it into place. Draw your design out and cut over the glass with a #11 Exacto blade. Spray the plane with windex and lay your trim over it. Squegie out the air and windex as best you can. Let it sit overnight (the ammonia activates the adhesive on the MonKote) and seal the edges with a low temp iron. Done! No air bubbles! Makes you look like a pro!

Assemble the wing onto the tube from the trailing edge of the wing. For this I used the gorrilla type glue. Glue and clamp the top and bottom of the fuse together, (insert the elevator first!) then the stabilizer. I just wicked in some thin CA to set it into the correct position. Then let sit overnight. Remove the clamps and tighten up the covering with a heat gun (since you wrinkled it up with the clamps during the glue up).

Hinge it up (i used CA hinges) throw on your control horns, servos, engine, rubber band your fuel tank on attached by some sort of anchor (I used pitcher hanging anchors) and run your wires through the tube. Set up your threaded push rods so they are 90 degrees to the horns at a neutral position. Attach the landing gear and wheels (I used the 40 size profile gear from Outlaw Hobbies). Bolt on your prop and balance on the output shafts on the aileron servos (The thing about this laminar airfoil is that the CG is not as critical as a conventional airfoil)

I used a Saito 72 on this, I have ran a Saito 82 and a YS 63 on previous LamYak 40s and they were both rockets out of a hover.

Now, take it out and destroy it! Always fly low and in your face. Torque roll in front of your buddys face while hes hovering 1/4 inch off the ground so he cant see;) Crash it and see that you dont need to fear most major damage, because this is built for abuse. Always bring packing tape to the field with you for repairs. Fly with no fear!:cool:

She will fly better after the first crash!!!!!
 

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SnowDog

Moderator
Looks great Craig! can't wait to see it in person tonight!

Also, one item that you did not mention is that to run those servo extension wires through the CF tube, you took the extensions, clipped off the connectors, and then soldered the wires from the servo directly to the extension, otherwise the extensions would not have fit in the CF tube, correct?

Another useful tool from Craig's box of tricks.
 
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3DNinja

30cc
Thanks again SnowDog, I hope you enjoy it this flying season and many more.
The flight report is on you now my friend.
 
Wow that was quick LOL Sweet looking too awesome job !!! Snowdog you are a lucky man :) have fun with the maiden and lets not have a :facepalm: moment LOL I just had to have a reason o use that smiley LOL
 

SnowDog

Moderator
Ha Ha Thanks Joe; no headsmacking moments, I hope. But Craig says they fly better afterwards so...who knows.
I am fortunate to have a good friend and 3D mentor in Craig.

I'm going to have two weeks of vacation in early April, so I WILL maiden this plane during this time, no matter what! And I will get video!!!
(and if I fly ok, maybe I'll even post the video) ;)
 
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