No limitz spinners

[RePete]

Just ordered a new spinner, my question is, what is the best way to cut the spinner for prop?
the reason I ask is the spinner I purchased this spring I hacked up badly to much gap, not symmetrical in general did not look good. How would one make a template of sorts. is there a sores for templates? It took me about 3 hours to hack up my last one. I used a piece of stiff wire wrapped around the prop at the hub ware the spinner would pass over the prop as a kind of template along with a fine wire form transfer profile tool. didn't work to well. If any body has suggestion please reply. or how do you do it. Pictures are worth thousand words.
Thanks RePete.

 

[jamesrxx951]

My last one I marked on the back plate where I wanted the cutout to start. Then I transfered that mark on the spinner mounted. I made a paper template of the prop. Once it was where I liked it I transfered it to the spinner. Then I cut undersized and opened it up from there based on how the prop fit in it.

 

[Dan767]

Sears and tool stores sell what's called a profile gauge. Google "images for profile gauge". I use one and have cut four Nolimitz with great results. Use the profile gauge over the prop where it crosses the spinner backplate. Transfer that to thick paper such as card stock or use a manila folder. Mark the spinner where the screws are, transfer the profile gauge outline to the spinner cone centered between the screws and mark with a sharpie.

 

[RePete]

Thanks James and Dan. James did you make a scribe line on the paper to outline the prop, or did you just start cutting the paper till it looked good.
Dan, yes I mentioned that was one of the tools I used the first spinner I cut. used it to get the cut depth. I think a jewelers saw would work for roughly cutting out the opening.

 

[jamesrxx951]

I just cut it till I was happy. Having another spinner already cut does help though.

 

[mnfatboy]

I use profile gauge like Dan767 said above. I put the backer plate on the motor then the prop on and mark the back plate and put tape on the prop and mark where the back plate and prop meet. Take the prop off and lay it on a flat work bench and use the profile gauge where you marked the prop and back plate meeting points. Then transfer the profile to a piece of card stock and cut out with a scissors. I then put the spinner and back plate together with a little blue tape on the spinner where you are going to trace the cut out and align the template to the points on the back plate. I use a dremel cut-off wheel and sanding drum to make and clean the cuts.

Here's the only pic I took of my process...

Here's the gauge I use...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Johnson-6-in-Contour-Gauge-2206/100353830

 

[mnfatboy]

Here's some finish pics...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Terryscustom]

This is something I put together about three years ago when I had a bunch of them to cut. I will note that @Pistolera followed my post back then with a great tip to use a piece of solder to make the profile around the prop which is an amazing tip

OK, repeat after me......No Limitz Spinners are NOT Scary!

If you can cut a cowl with descent results, you can cut one of these spinners. I had a few spinners to do today, so I took pics in order as I went, here is a basic overview:

- Make a template on paper till you are happy with it. You can copy an existing spinner or, like I did....copy an existing spinner on the paper just as a basic idea and modify it to suite.
- Transfer the template to some thin cardboard to use it and keep it for future reference.
- Locate the prop on the backplate and make some registration marks and marks for the opening
- Drill the prop if you haven't already
- Use the prop to start one hole in the back-plate
- Drill the back plate and use a tapered ream or similar tool to clean up the holes in the backplate
- Use masking tape on the spinner so you can draw on that instead of the spinner. Also helps prevent splinters, etc.
- Add for the thickness from the lip on the back plate to the back of the actual prop, in this case 3/16"
- Draw your outline, and cut "close" to the line so you can sneak up on it. Better to take a little at a time than too much. I prefer to use carbide dremel bits instead of a sanding wheel. Sanding wheels can burn the fiberglass and are generally a PITA unless they are new. One of the carbid bits will cut dozens of cowls and spinners without wearing out. Sand the final profile with the sanding wheel before hand sanding.
- I toss the screws that are provided with the spinner in the garbage. They seem to strip out the first time you assemble the spinner and if they don't then, they will when you remove it (assuming you used loctite). RTL fasteners has nice button head 3mm screws and #4 bonded washers that work great and with these I typically do not use loctite, but I'm sure you could.
- Clean up the slot with some 100 grit and follow with 180 to smooth the sharp edges.
- Install, go fly!!

 

[RePete]

Thanks Mnfatboy and Terry. very helpful. Mnfatboy I see you are from Lakeville, where is your club? you probably belonged to tri valley before they got booted out. I fly at Grass field.
Terry thanks so much wish I would have seen this earlier. I subbed to your channel a while back your shop is amazing. followed Pistoleras Krill Extra build on f g. I also follow Tbrums builds on rc canucks. The spinner I botched up is for krill sukhoi 33% . I have new spinner ordered not because I botched it because screws striped baker plate eventually. Thinking of building the Vertigo 2m this winter what do you think.

 

[Terryscustom]

Vertigo is badass, I was all on board to build the 100cc size then then they made the small version instead