njswede
150cc
[h=1]Introduction[/h]
The Mini Crack Yak is the latest addition to the TwistedHobbys "Crack Series". Considerably smaller than its siblings, measuring in at a mere 24" wing span, the Mini Crack Yak is primarily geared towards indoor flying and flying in small spaces. And while it may look like a toy to the untrained eye, this is nothing short of an extreme 3D machine in a small package!
There are two versions of the kit. One comes with airframe only and the other has power system and servos included. We strongly recommend getting the power system combo, as it can be a bit challenging finding the right motor and ESC for a plane this size.
[h=1]Specifications as Reviewed[/h]
- Wing span – 24” / Length – 25”
- AUW 80 - 95g (with Landing Gear)
- DualSky XM2212RTR-25 Motor/ESC
- CS-35D Digital Nano Servos
- CS-40D Digital Micro Servo
- 7x3.5 GWS DD Prop
Recommended for skill level: Intermediate - Advanced
[h=1]Unboxing[/h]
Good things come in small packages and the Crack Yak Mini is no exception. The plane arrived neatly packaged in a small flat package containing laser cut foam pieces, a sheet of laser cut plywood parts and assorted hardware. One thing we noticed right away is the generous use of carbon fiber parts. Our kit also came with three 4g servos and a DualSky motor/ESC combo.
[h=1]Building[/h]
The build is fairly straight-forward. However, if you're used to ARFs, be aware that the Crack Yak is more of a "kit" than an ARF and it does require gluing the pieces of the airframe together. Luckily, there are only about a dozen of pieces that need to be glued and with a little bit of care and patience, pretty much anyone should be able to build this kid with excellent results.
We strongly recommend you watch the entire build video (see link below) from beginning to end before starting the build. There are a couple of steps that require some preparation and planning, especially when it comes to preparing and installing the pushrods for the tail surfaces.
The build video is excellent and provides all the information you need for the build. If you follow the steps carefully, you should not have any problems with the build. However, we made a couple of notes during the build:
- We found the method of attaching the fixed Z-bend on the pushrod a bit messy and had better results attaching it with shrink tubing first and then adding thin CA with a fine glue tip and let it wick in under the shrink tube. At the end of the day, this is more a matter of personal preference than anything else.
- When gluing down the pushrod guides, make sure you have a q-tip with some debonder ready. Getting rid of glue spills on the pushrods before it completely cures is a LOT easier. Be careful not to get any debonder on the fuse, as it will dissolve the paint.
- If the hole for a pushrod guide is a little too big, don't be tempted to use gap-filling medium CA. It is much harder to remove if it bonds to the pushrods and guides. Instead, use thin CA and gently push on the foam around the hole to make a tight bond.
- The landing gear also act as a cross-brace and is an essential part of the airframe and must not be omitted. However, if you plan on flying the plane off of anything other than gym floors, you may consider using the supplied shorter cross braces instead of the landing gear.
[h=1]Flying[/h]
We tested the model with 180mAh 2s batteries. This is a very light battery and we found we needed to push the battery almost all the way to the nose to make the plane balance. A slightly larger battery is probably easier to balance and should help with flight times too. We are planning to retest the plane with 260-300mAh batteries.
Unfortunately we didn't have access to an indoor venue for our maiden, but we got the second best thing: An absolutely calm afternoon!
The first thing we noticed was how highly maneuverable the plane is. Rudder response is awesome and in a harrier the plane almost turns on a dime if you give full rudder and lightly bump the throttle. The same thing is true of the elevator response. Walls, waterfalls and parachutes are spectacular if timed correctly.
As you've come to expect from a plane from TwistedHobbys, the knife edge performance is flawless, virtually free of coupling and requires very little rudder input. KE-loops requires some roll correction, but are probably as easy as they're ever going to get in any plane.
Post-stall is plain beautiful without even a hint of wing rock at any alpha and the stall transition is unnoticeable.
Initially we had some issues holding a steady hover, but we soon realized that this plane wants a generous amount of expo, especially on the rudder. The reason for this is the strong and direct rudder response and we found that manuevers requiring precision, such as the hover, worked best if the controls were "tamed" a bit using expo.
[h=1]Conclusion[/h]
As we've said from the very beginning, this is not a toy, but an advanced 3D performer. It will do any 3D trick you throw at it and if you time your maneuvers right, you can be sure catch some attention with this little firecracker of a plane. Many people see foamies as 3D trainers, and while the Crack Yak Mini is certainly a valuable tool for developing your skills, it's a performer that will steal any show from the "big boys".
Pros:
- Great quality kit
- Awesome flight performance
- Great vendor who stands behind their products
- Great build video
- Perfectly matched power combo
Cons:
- Weak landing gear (recommended only for gym floor use)
- Somewhat tricky pushrod installation
[h=1]Links and References[/h]
Build video: http://youtu.be/2FvpBVs046g
Product web page: http://www.twistedhobbys.com/TH-24-...tal-Power-Combo-24-YakMini-w-PowerCombo-D.htm
Vendor web site: http://www.twistedhobbys.com/
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Some items received by 3DRCForums for review, were provided for free or at a discount.
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Looking forward to flying with you soon!
