Discussion Onboard On/Off Switches

[Bartman]

i rewire the switch so the three balancing wires for the two cell lipo go through a servo type plug and the charging port, the switch uses the power wires. sometimes you have to use a Dremel cut off blade to cut through the circuit board traces that go to the charging port. if anyone wants to see how to do it I could make a quick video

 

[49dimes]

I can think of only one occasion when a switch failed causing me a crash....It was a Futaba Acrostar 60 and Supplied Futaba Switch that came with the 7UAP radio I purchased new. Gosh! That was almost 30 years ago.

I have also used, and still do on some models, the single and dual toggles with never an issue. Now a days If I plant a new "tree" it's because of the radio ....or should I say the person standing behind the radio .

Most recently I decided to go "switchless" because the planes canopy has a quick release system built in (Like an electric). The XT60 connectors make a good tight and snug fit so I don't worry about vibration. Got the Idea from flying my Chunk 'O' Foams .

 

[AKNick]

I'm a little pissed to find out today that there are people complaining about those Miracle Switches. Was about to order a double with the fuel dot built in.

Anyone here have first hand experience with them or the Valley View version of them?

I had the dual switch Miracle anodized red with a fuel port in my 71" slick with a DLE35RA that I abused for three years until I smashed the plane into the earth/water. (avatar photo plane). I rewired the charge port to accommodate charging my A123 batteries. No issues. I will say that after cutting the large hole for it I put a bead of silicone around the device prior to inserting it in the hole for a little extra vibration damper. I did this on a 20cc plane as well but used the double sided sticky foam on the back side of the face and trimmed it.
Now my planes are equipped without a switch. I use an XT60 connector instead. No different than flying a little eclectic plane.
https://www.valleyviewrc.com/dual-switch-w-fuel-dot-red

Not sure what to think of the booma pin style switch. Maybe its the fact there is a little 1/16" of free space when the pin is removed that is keeping your plane from shutting off... dunno. All the reports of this unit appear to be bullet proof. One failure I've heard of, but who knows how it was taken care of either? But a battery redundancy is nice.
http://www.boomarc.com/en/hidden-balance-switch-with-pin-flag

There Key Fob switches are pretty neat
http://www.boomarc.com/en/smart-switch-with-pin-flag-and-battery-guard-technology

I made a little thread a while back on a brico switch, that uses the same pin style concept, but was primitive and have never used it.
https://www.giantscalenews.com/threads/brico-43a-pin-flag-switch.7776/

Fromeco makes a nice "wolverine" switch that I haven't heard a bad thing about. Once again, Battery Redundancy.
https://fromeco-scale-avionics-llc.myshopify.com/products/wolverine-switch

Jeti makes a Magnetic Key switch. I've used the Single version. I didn't like the magnetic key arm plate connection. I have also forgotten the magnetic switch at the house before....
http://www.espritmodel.com/jeti-electronic-switch-dual-with-magnetic-key-dps-40.aspx

So all these sweet products and I feel that a XT60 coming off my Single A123 battery with a 10-14AWG wire into two 20AWG power leads for the RX is about as bullet proof as it gets. But that is for a single 35cc plane. I did the same with the Jeti plug but used an XT30 instead.
My thoughts are get what you want and do your best to make it last a long time if you are concerned... That miracle switch offers replacement toggle switches so you can maintain it and either replace the switch every 2-3 years or the whole unit.
There is always room for a failure point. If you are using Lipos, you probably want to charge them in a contained environment outside the plane anyways.

 

[Bartman]

That Brico switch looks interesting but not available in the US.

I'm actually leaning back towards just using two of whatever matching switches I have in my parts box. Feel free to smack me when you see me.

 

[pawnshopmike]

I saw some google results from Redwing today, are they back in business or new owner?

self-inflicted thread drift is acceptable, by the way

New ownership. His name is Jeff. Can’t remember his last name. But he’s a super nice guy. Met him a few different times.

 

[Pistolera]

Have always liked the Fromeco Wolverine switches. That said, I just ordered the Booma Key Fob switch for my Krill. I had originally set up the plane for a pin flag switch....but have since decided I didnt want anything showing on the outside of the plane. Hope it works as well as I've heard.

 

[Bartman]

You guys trust technology way more than I do!

 

[acerc]

You guys trust technology way more than I do!

That may be but it is because most of these things have been in use for a while so they are time tested. For example, the Miracle switch, it did have an issue with vibration on the wires where they connected so they went and put a sheath on them. I have used many of them with no issue, same goes for most of these electronics. The biggest difference in them is the amp capability and that is why I like Smart fly and Booma, they have a larger amp rating.
For on board remote switches I use a Pico switch.

 

[Snoopy1]

One thing that I have found over the years is that most wires and electronics is time and vibration sensitive. I have had stuff work without any problems from 1 to 3 years but when life is up to 5 years and up it becomes very apparent what does and does not work. I have planes that are 16 years old and have well over 500 hours on them. Those planes have shown me very clearly what works well and over time. There are some fellows at our field that don’t own a plane more than 2 years and are trying to tell you what and does not work. And yes Miracle switches worked great except the wiring connections to the switch is what failed.

 

[acerc]

That may be but it is because most of these things have been in use for a while so they are time tested.

One thing that I have found over the years is that most wires and electronics is time and vibration sensitive. I have had stuff work without any problems from 1 to 3 years but when life is up to 5 years and up it becomes very apparent what does and does not work. I have planes that are 16 years old and have well over 500 hours on them. Those planes have shown me very clearly what works well and over time. There are some fellows at our field that don’t own a plane more than 2 years and are trying to tell you what and does not work. And yes Miracle switches worked great except the wiring connections to the switch is what failed.

Before Miracle started putting the added housing I was using silicon to make a securing block as I felt the first I seen the open solder I did not like it. Never had a problem and quit adding the silicon once the block came on them.