PHENOLIC SLEEVES FOR CARBON TUBES
- Thread starter stangflyer
- Start date
BillVargas
50cc
Tubes sockets are an easy fix. You'll need some epoxy, micro balloons, an acid brush and a dry eraser marker,,, bend the brushy end at a 45.
Install elevator. Use a dry eraser marker and outline the stab where it butts up against the fuselage. Remove stab.
Several ways here to apply epoxy, to the tube socket, is thru the servo wire hole or thru the lightning hole that's just forward of the tube socket.
If you look thru the servo wire hole, can you see the tube socket and can you reach it with the acid brush? If yes then proceed to mix up the epoxy and micro balloons and apply to all areas where the tube socket meets the wood.
Using the stab outlines, is your lightning hole smaller or well within the stab outline? If yes, cut away the china coat to open up that hole. Now you should have a better view inside and where you will need to apply the epoxy. No need to recover that hole because its hidden when the elevator is mounted up.
If there is no lightning hole, STUDY UP AND LOOK in front of the wing tube socket the best you can before this next step because you don t want to cut thru a bulkhead when making or enlarging the servo wire hole. IF the servo wire hole is too small,,, make it bigger but don t go past the elevator stab outlines. OR, make a hole about 1" or so forward of the wing tube socket that is within the elevator stab outlines and apply your epoxy micro balloon mix with the acid brush.
While there are many ways to make required repairs from time to time,,, this has worked well for me
BV
Install elevator. Use a dry eraser marker and outline the stab where it butts up against the fuselage. Remove stab.
Several ways here to apply epoxy, to the tube socket, is thru the servo wire hole or thru the lightning hole that's just forward of the tube socket.
If you look thru the servo wire hole, can you see the tube socket and can you reach it with the acid brush? If yes then proceed to mix up the epoxy and micro balloons and apply to all areas where the tube socket meets the wood.
Using the stab outlines, is your lightning hole smaller or well within the stab outline? If yes, cut away the china coat to open up that hole. Now you should have a better view inside and where you will need to apply the epoxy. No need to recover that hole because its hidden when the elevator is mounted up.
If there is no lightning hole, STUDY UP AND LOOK in front of the wing tube socket the best you can before this next step because you don t want to cut thru a bulkhead when making or enlarging the servo wire hole. IF the servo wire hole is too small,,, make it bigger but don t go past the elevator stab outlines. OR, make a hole about 1" or so forward of the wing tube socket that is within the elevator stab outlines and apply your epoxy micro balloon mix with the acid brush.
While there are many ways to make required repairs from time to time,,, this has worked well for me
BV
stangflyer
I like 'em "BIG"!
For those that are experiencing the same issue, I am going to do a little tutorial that Bill helped me to realize. I was all stressed thinking I was going to have to cut mine old ones out, try..."TRY" to locate the exact replacements and then install them. With Bills help, I discovered it is so darned easy, even "I" can do it. LOL.... 'Nough said. On with it we go. Pictures to follow soon.
Ok so here we go... as you all can see from the photos, my SD 260 has lightening holes just forward of the stab tube socket in the fuse. Since it is hidden when the stabs are in place, I'm not too worried about trimming a little covering away. And if I wanted to put it back? Heck a patch would not even be seen.
Once the covering was removed, it opened up a very nice and extremely easy access hole to get into. I will start by putting the stab tube in the fuse to insure the alignment of the phenolic tube is correct. Then from the inside of the fuse, I am using Thin CA to go all the way around the joint. (This may require laying the fuse on the side or rotating it so that the glue gets all the way around.) Once the thin CA has set, I will go back and do glue it again with medium CA.
Because I have a slight crack on the right aft side of the socket, I will do as Bill suggested and mix up some Epoxy. I am however going to cut it a little with alcohol to thin it just a smidgen. Before applying the epoxy, I will reach around behind the socket with my dental pick to make sure all the crack is pushed into place. Once that is done, I will use the epoxy to fill the crack from the inside. A little packing tape over the top of the "healed" crack to keep the epoxy in place until it sets up and boom....done. A tiny bit of VERY light sanding to take away any slight residue left behind and we're back in the air.
Saved myself a little money and a ton of worry. Thanks so much Bill....
Ok so here we go... as you all can see from the photos, my SD 260 has lightening holes just forward of the stab tube socket in the fuse. Since it is hidden when the stabs are in place, I'm not too worried about trimming a little covering away. And if I wanted to put it back? Heck a patch would not even be seen.
Once the covering was removed, it opened up a very nice and extremely easy access hole to get into. I will start by putting the stab tube in the fuse to insure the alignment of the phenolic tube is correct. Then from the inside of the fuse, I am using Thin CA to go all the way around the joint. (This may require laying the fuse on the side or rotating it so that the glue gets all the way around.) Once the thin CA has set, I will go back and do glue it again with medium CA.
Because I have a slight crack on the right aft side of the socket, I will do as Bill suggested and mix up some Epoxy. I am however going to cut it a little with alcohol to thin it just a smidgen. Before applying the epoxy, I will reach around behind the socket with my dental pick to make sure all the crack is pushed into place. Once that is done, I will use the epoxy to fill the crack from the inside. A little packing tape over the top of the "healed" crack to keep the epoxy in place until it sets up and boom....done. A tiny bit of VERY light sanding to take away any slight residue left behind and we're back in the air.
Saved myself a little money and a ton of worry. Thanks so much Bill....
BillVargas
50cc
Anytime Rob and glad it all worked out
stangflyer
I like 'em "BIG"!
Whoa.....now "THAT" is big hooptie. Just so not worthy. LOLBill Vargas said
Anytime Rob and glad it all worked out
