Pilot RC 122" Extra 330SC

[Joe Hunt]

Only thing about that Dubro hardware for threaded studs is you have to glue it to the stud so it does not turn or your plane looses trim off and on during the flight. Ball link should be all that turns. You may not notice it right away and maybe not as much with three vs two per wing, but as they wear in it becomes more evident.

You know.... I've used control horn bolts on 90% of the planes I've built (that's a lot of planes, mostly 40% planes) and never worried about that, nor had any trouble with that (just setup the AW 122" Yak55m like that and flew it hard, too). But, I went ahead and epoxied these on because you mentioned it... and... I kinda LIKE them epoxied on.

 

[Joe Hunt]

 

[Terryscustom]

You know.... I've used control horn bolts on 90% of the planes I've built (that's a lot of planes, mostly 40% planes) and never worried about that, nor had any trouble with that (just setup the AW 122" Yak55m like that and flew it hard, too). But, I went ahead and epoxied these on because you mentioned it... and... I kinda them epoxied on.

Yea, it doesn't take much to hold them in place, with dual servos it becomes more evident. For instance if you do something like a tight rolling loop and exit the ailerons may be like one click out of trim. Lots of people won't even notice, but thought I'd throw it out there.

 

[dhal22]

I had me a bunch of Moki 2.10s... I was just talking about that to Buttface tonight.

One of the best glow engines ever. Zero nitro needed and still put out some serious hp.

 

[Joe Hunt]

 

[jamesrxx951]

Joe,
Have you removed any of the linkages to see if the hole matchs up correctly. With my JR brushless servos i found that using an amp meter is pretty useless for checking for binding. Once the servo moved to full travel amperage went down to where you have shown and stayed there. I could pull on the servo arm and noticed virtually no increase in amp load. If i removed the linkage the holes were off. Using the same meter as you and the fromeco quad meter.

 

[yakken]

Thats how i set mine up

 

[dhal22]

Joe,
Have you removed any of the linkages to see if the hole matchs up correctly. With my JR brushless servos i found that using an amp meter is pretty useless for checking for binding. Once the servo moved to full travel amperage went down to where you have shown and stayed there. I could pull on the servo arm and noticed virtually no increase in amp load. If i removed the linkage the holes were off. Using the same meter as you and the fromeco quad meter.

I might need some clarification on that. I upgraded aileron servo arms last week and have some slight binding. Was going to pull out my Fromeco Quad meter and start adjusting but going to try to understand your method 1st.

 

[jamesrxx951]

I might need some clarification on that. I upgraded aileron servo arms last week and have some slight binding. Was going to pull out my Fromeco Quad meter and start adjusting but going to try to understand your method 1st.

What i do now is use a digital angle meter to set up throws on both servos with only one servo connected to the surface at a time. Once i have it dialed in i will line up the disconnected servo ball link to the horn or arm and match up the holes. Add subtrim where needed to correct neutral and end point to line up full defection. But i try to dial in the geometry so no trim is needed on end points. The hardware Joe is using works the best for this since you simply turn the screw to match full defection. I will use different servo arms and now unihubs to use as little as possible subtrim for neutral. Mid travel i will move the surface with the radio and look in the hole of the disconnected servo linkage to see if there is any misalignment. If there is, i will balance the midtravel in the radio. I found using an amp meter on brushless servos is not a good indicator of binding compared to coreless servos.

 

[jamesrxx951]

FYI i confirmed with my H9 current meter and it matched the quad meter.