Share your great building tips

[stangflyer]

Speaking of covering, there are a couple of things I do maybe a little different. And this goes back to rule of thumb regarding the absorption rate of covering. Lighter colors will withstand a little more direct and concentrated heat than darker colors. I didn't happen across this tip/trick by accident. Oh no, I had to learn the hard way. Too much concentrated heat will cause nasty results of over shrinkage. Lighter colors I use my iron and sealing iron on medium heat. I can get away with higher heat on white. But seams especially and dark colors, I use just enough heat to warm the adhesive. Then iron the covering into place. When doing open structure, a heat gun is ok, but go quick even and consistent passes. So, you have a big bubble blister right smack dab in the middle of a sheeted surface? No problem. The very top of a #11 razor knife inserted at a near horizontal angle to your covered surface. Just enough to puncture the covering. Some use a "T" pin straight down. But when the blister bubble is removed, it is very easy to see the pin prick in the covering. With the knife tip inserted at an angle of near horizontal, the covering is sliced. When the blister bubble is removed, the flap edge where you inserted the knife tip lays down flat and walaa. No evidence. Also, I have used a soft cloth that is soaked in water, wrung out then placed in the freezer for about five to ten minutes. Heat shrink your blister bubbles, lay your now ice cold wet cloth on the covering. Slurp! Sucks that covering right down to the surface and no more blister bubble.

 

[Jetpainter]

Speaking of covering, there are a couple of things I do maybe a little different. And this goes back to rule of thumb regarding the absorption rate of covering. Lighter colors will withstand a little more direct and concentrated heat than darker colors. I didn't happen across this tip/trick by accident. Oh no, I had to learn the hard way. Too much concentrated heat will cause nasty results of over shrinkage. Lighter colors I use my iron and sealing iron on medium heat. I can get away with higher heat on white. But seams especially and dark colors, I use just enough heat to warm the adhesive. Then iron the covering into place. When doing open structure, a heat gun is ok, but go quick even and consistent passes. So, you have a big bubble blister right smack dab in the middle of a sheeted surface? No problem. The very top of a #11 razor knife inserted at a near horizontal angle to your covered surface. Just enough to puncture the covering. Some use a "T" pin straight down. But when the blister bubble is removed, it is very easy to see the pin prick in the covering. With the knife tip inserted at an angle of near horizontal, the covering is sliced. When the blister bubble is removed, the flap edge where you inserted the knife tip lays down flat and walaa. No evidence. Also, I have used a soft cloth that is soaked in water, wrung out then placed in the freezer for about five to ten minutes. Heat shrink your blister bubbles, lay your now ice cold wet cloth on the covering. Slurp! Sucks that covering right down to the surface and no more blister bubble.

I'll have to try that cold the trick.

 

[Xpress]

If you can't get your velcro to stick to the wood, that's because the wood isn't a sticky enough surface for it. I put a few drops of medium CA down where I will be sticking my velcro, then I use the wax paper backing from the velcro to spread the CA around. The smooth surface of the paper backing won't stick to the CA and it helps it spread evenly and smoothly. Then just let the CA harden up on its own, velcro will never come up again.

 

[Jetpainter]

If you can't get your velcro to stick to the wood, that's because the wood isn't a sticky enough surface for it. I put a few drops of medium CA down where I will be sticking my velcro, then I use the wax paper backing from the velcro to spread the CA around. The smooth surface of the paper backing won't stick to the CA and it helps it spread evenly and smoothly. Then just let the CA harden up on its own, velcro will never come up again.

I also do that when I'm sticking down a wire keeper. Some of the wire keepers have really bad foam two sided tape on them that I usually clean off and replace with 3M automotive grade tape.

 

[stangflyer]

If you can't get your velcro to stick to the wood, that's because the wood isn't a sticky enough surface for it. I put a few drops of medium CA down where I will be sticking my velcro, then I use the wax paper backing from the velcro to spread the CA around. The smooth surface of the paper backing won't stick to the CA and it helps it spread evenly and smoothly. Then just let the CA harden up on its own, velcro will never come up again.

I also do that when I'm sticking down a wire keeper. Some of the wire keepers have really bad foam two sided tape on them that I usually clean off and replace with 3M automotive grade tape.

Niiiiice... You two are magicians. LOL. I will definitely remember this little trick. Cool stuff Tanner and Doug.