Decal Dennis
TEAM EP&G
Worked on this for awhile...............................
The 'What did you do in your workshop tonight?' thread
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BalsaDust
Moderator
Forgot to post these this morning. Basic run down of the glass method. Still plan to do a video though so stay tuned.
View attachment 44604
First off you need a template to go by. I trace the fuse out on butcher paper. Then I can draw out my scheme to see how it's going to look. Ounces that's done I lay another piece of paper over the whole thing and make paper templates of each piece being sure to leave a 1/2" overhang on one side to form a strong seam.
Next you can lay your piece of glass over the template. Be sure the surface of the glass is nice and clean and then you can start laying down the covering. As you can see I just lined up the bottom of the piece of covering with the mark I made on the paper. Speaking of the marks I draw everything out with a pencil once I'm happy with it I trace over it with a sharpie. The sharpie bleeds though enough that all I have to do is flip the paper to do the reverse panel.
Next layer
As you can see here I have all the pieces laid out in position and taped together. Now I like to have the top pieces overhang the bottom pieces but it can be done either way. This is just how I like to do it.
Like I said crank the heat up a bit. Working with ultra cote here and from what I have found 300 is a great temp to shrink the covering once on the airframe but the glass does a great job of absorbing the heat and the covering will not shrink at this time.
End result is nice, clean, straight, wrinkle free seams. Be sure to take your time no need in rushing it. At this point it is stuck to the glass. Allow it to cool for a little bit and then peel it up. Now as you may have noticed my piece of glass is not large enough to cover the entire work surface. At some point I will get a larger piece but for now this is what I have. I just do a section allow it to cool then peel it off and move it to the next section. That why we tape all the pieces together since I know I will have to move them before they are done.
Hope this all makes sense and if it intimidates you don't let it. Once you see the video I will make it becomes obvious how easy it is.
View attachment 44604
First off you need a template to go by. I trace the fuse out on butcher paper. Then I can draw out my scheme to see how it's going to look. Ounces that's done I lay another piece of paper over the whole thing and make paper templates of each piece being sure to leave a 1/2" overhang on one side to form a strong seam.
Next you can lay your piece of glass over the template. Be sure the surface of the glass is nice and clean and then you can start laying down the covering. As you can see I just lined up the bottom of the piece of covering with the mark I made on the paper. Speaking of the marks I draw everything out with a pencil once I'm happy with it I trace over it with a sharpie. The sharpie bleeds though enough that all I have to do is flip the paper to do the reverse panel.
Next layer
As you can see here I have all the pieces laid out in position and taped together. Now I like to have the top pieces overhang the bottom pieces but it can be done either way. This is just how I like to do it.
Like I said crank the heat up a bit. Working with ultra cote here and from what I have found 300 is a great temp to shrink the covering once on the airframe but the glass does a great job of absorbing the heat and the covering will not shrink at this time.
End result is nice, clean, straight, wrinkle free seams. Be sure to take your time no need in rushing it. At this point it is stuck to the glass. Allow it to cool for a little bit and then peel it up. Now as you may have noticed my piece of glass is not large enough to cover the entire work surface. At some point I will get a larger piece but for now this is what I have. I just do a section allow it to cool then peel it off and move it to the next section. That why we tape all the pieces together since I know I will have to move them before they are done.
Hope this all makes sense and if it intimidates you don't let it. Once you see the video I will make it becomes obvious how easy it is.
pawnshopmike
Staff member
BalsaDust
Moderator
I want to build a mojo60 some kind of bad. I have a beat up 40 that I love. I'm going to be recovering a hangar 9 33% edge 540 for the guy I just finished the kadet for. The scheme will require the glass method and I will prolly pick up a new larger piece of glass before doing it.
Dennis, that's a crazy logo.
Chris, that's a great tutorial.
Thanks bud.
Also sorry not sure why this photo didn't post correctly.
Alky6
150cc
If it is not too much trouble, would love to see pics of the process you use on the 33% edge as well. On the mojo60 - would you go with glow or electric? Had a little mojo25 that ended its life short after meeting a tree....Lol Fun!
BalsaDust
Moderator
Yup I can do that. I actually prolly will be starting a thread just for the edge.
BalsaDust
Moderator
I said I was starting a new build shortly didn't I? Got the stabs built for another pair of stix41's. One is built normal and the other the customer requested I add counterbalances to the elevator on his so on they went.
Also cleaned off my table saw so I could cut a couple sets of sanding blocks as well as 8 of these jigs I fabbed up to cut my own tristock out of square stock on my band saw.
Jetpainter
640cc Uber Pimp
Pretty cool Dennis, things like that were all the rage when I was a kid.
