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The 'What did you do in your workshop tonight?' thread

Decal Dennis

Decal Dennis

TEAM EP&G
This stage is done, have more planned for the truck. Thanks @pawnshopmike

20161029_173259.jpg
 
Buddy5303

Buddy5303

70cc twin V2
stangflyer said:
Not entirely accurate. The RCEXL Opto-Kill only does what they are told to do. They recieve the "on" and "off" signal from your reciever. There is no failsafe per sey, just has to have "on" power signal to allow voltage to be passed to the ignition module. And fact be known, they do not need an extra battery for ignition. The power lead can be plugged into any open reciever channel or even "Y"d with another channel that is in use. The Opto is only looking for power to allow voltage to the ignition. I've been setting them up this way on everything for years with no issues. Everything from the RCGF 10cc on the grandsons trainer to the 30, 50, 100cc planes including the big Yak that presently runs (2) Opto-kill switches. Both operated from separate channels for redundancy, however slaved to operate from one common 2 position toggle switch on my tx. I use the same switch for all ignition commands on all my planes to reduce the risk of "c.r.w.s.s". Too many times I've witnessed people setting up different switches for different planes. It's like, "it's a different plane, it needs a different ignition swith on the tx"! And then they walk around in a daze for six hours trying to figure out where they put the silly ignition switch. The Opto-kill works perfect on a 2 position switch on a tx. Definitely have to make sure the servo volume level for that channel is maxed out and e.p.a. is set at least 20 points past either way of "on" and "off". In other words the "on" signal is kicked at let's say 25%, then drop e.p.a. all the way to zero. Never seen them require more than 20 either way to work perfectly without issue. Course a lot of this depends on each manufacturer and their individual settings on each radio. I am a huge advocate in opposition of adding things that can risk an airframe. Whether it be a 200 dollar foamy or an $8,000.00 dollar Sukhoi or like. It's all about safety to property and people. I'm also huge about not spending money for items you simply do not need, that add possible failure links and is far more complex than needs to be. K.I.S.S.! For myself I'll never spend not one penny for an I.B.E.C or like component, when I can achieve the same exact result from a 12 dollar simple plug in and go switch.
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That may be the case never checked failsafe settings in my radio it could have been that. Mine would switch off and on real fast only noticeable by watching the led light. In flight motor would sometimes miss at random times. That's the only reason I really looked at the light sitting on the ground. I agree with the kiss method. Now just servo to kill motor manual switch on plane guarantees the ignition off or on.


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Jetpainter

Jetpainter

640cc Uber Pimp
Jetpainter said:
One of the guys at the field has been shaming me about not flying my little pylon racer for over a year now, so I decided it was time. The airplane is one I scratch built from my own plan about 20 years ago. Back then it was powered with an O.S. 10 for races we had at my previous club. About two years ago I changed it to electric. I had been flying it on 3S and have been wanting to go to 4S, so the other day I ordered a new battery to try out.

According to the propeller data for the Cobra 2213/12 2000kv motor, the 3S with the 6 x 5.5 prop I'd been running had a pitch speed of 89.4. On 4S with a 5.25 x 4.75 that goes up to 104. I have a 4.75 x 5.5 coming (hopefully tomorrow) that the data says has a pitch speed of 124.8. It hard to say if those numbers are close are just theoretical, but it should be interesting to find out.;)

It's also going to be interesting to see if the 20 year old glue joints, and servos, will hold up to the higher speed too!:lol2:

View attachment 90408 View attachment 90409
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Well the first try on 4S was a miserable failure. Something went pop about 10 seconds after the hand launch and the motor quit. I killed the throttle a landed. After getting it back to the pits the motor seemed free so I tried to test run it, the motor spun for a split second and then it let the sacred smoke out of the ESC.:(
 
pawnshopmike

pawnshopmike

Staff member
Jetpainter said:
Well the first try on 4S was a miserable failure. Something went pop about 10 seconds after the hand launch and the motor quit. I killed the throttle a landed. After getting it back to the pits the motor seemed free so I tried to test run it, the motor spun for a split second and then it let the sacred smoke out of the ESC.:(
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Dammit man. Hate when that happens.:confused:
 
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