Terryscustom
640cc Uber Pimp
Thanks Stang. Hoping to do that during New Years week if things work out.
3D Viper-ST 100-120cc scratch build......it continues!
- Thread starter Terryscustom
- Start date
You can come and cover my wings if you want.This...."THIS" my friend is freaking gorgeous! I used to really enjoy building, but my favorite of all builds was when it was narrowing down to the final stages and I could sit back and "envision" the scheme and the colors and the clear blue sky all around it. Then pulling the covering iron, heat gun, trim tool and all the rolls of that precious colored film out and going to work. I would LOVE LOVE LOVE to be doing a covering job on this beauty. Not many I would say that about, but this would be so fun.
stangflyer
I like 'em "BIG"!
I'd happily come do some covering for you if it weren't so far.
bbrown2828
150cc
Santa please bring me one
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
Terryscustom
640cc Uber Pimp
I'll teach you a few little tips and you'll be looking forward to covering the next one!!
tylerzx9r
100cc
What I recommend, is that you order the kit (while they are on sale!!!) and cubby whole that thing away for a bit.... Then when your ready, there is no question on what to build! Besides you never know what may happen, you could need a plane to put some gear into sooner than a couple years! However if you must wait, I Think you will still be able to get one of you ask Fibertech in a nice manor
Terryscustom
640cc Uber Pimp
Got my work done and had a couple hours to work on my plane today. Got some work done on the canopy. I knew going in with this that the canopy deck would need some work. Rick has re-worked the foam so that the kits going out will match and I'm getting another one soon that my unknowing candidate Tyler is going to try out
I first mounted the cowl and blended in the bottom in with a sanding block. Sides were not an issue but I hit them with a block as well and then checked the top. An easy way to see if you have dips is to mark the top with a pencil (I went a little heavy to show up for the pics) then block over and the sandpaper will only take off the high spots. I made a little masking tape dam to build up the leading edge and applied some body filler. I used glaze since I'm only building up a little less than 1/16".
While that dried I trimmed the bottom edge of the canopy shell and masked off the leading edge. I sanded the leading edge of the shell to thin it down. I hit it with 100 grit paper and it takes a bit of work but looks nice if you have not recessed the front of the shell. I sand it back about 1/2" and so the LE of the shell is down to about 1/32" or slightly less. Always mask to protect that you don't want to sand and if you wear the masking tape down, add another layer. I ended up with four layers of tape to keep from scratching the glassed canopy deck.
I sanded and re-filled the front and then filled the area in front of the canopy shell. This basically yields a nice smooth bump where the canopy shell starts instead of an abrupt edge. Once painted, this transition blends in and is barely visible from a few feet away yet is easy to do and I have yet to have one crack.
I first mounted the cowl and blended in the bottom in with a sanding block. Sides were not an issue but I hit them with a block as well and then checked the top. An easy way to see if you have dips is to mark the top with a pencil (I went a little heavy to show up for the pics) then block over and the sandpaper will only take off the high spots. I made a little masking tape dam to build up the leading edge and applied some body filler. I used glaze since I'm only building up a little less than 1/16".
While that dried I trimmed the bottom edge of the canopy shell and masked off the leading edge. I sanded the leading edge of the shell to thin it down. I hit it with 100 grit paper and it takes a bit of work but looks nice if you have not recessed the front of the shell. I sand it back about 1/2" and so the LE of the shell is down to about 1/32" or slightly less. Always mask to protect that you don't want to sand and if you wear the masking tape down, add another layer. I ended up with four layers of tape to keep from scratching the glassed canopy deck.
I sanded and re-filled the front and then filled the area in front of the canopy shell. This basically yields a nice smooth bump where the canopy shell starts instead of an abrupt edge. Once painted, this transition blends in and is barely visible from a few feet away yet is easy to do and I have yet to have one crack.
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Terryscustom
640cc Uber Pimp
After a little more sanding the canopy was done and ready to a base coat of primer that may or may not show more areas that I need to work on. I decided to put some fine-line masking on the canopy where I am proposing the canopy shell be painted up to. I like to do this and look at it a few times to make sure I'm happy before I commit.
Then I started the hinging. For tonight I just got started and had to leave for the day but will pick it up this weekend. For hinges I bought a robart hinge pin jig and modified it with a piece of plywood. You can do this with a simple square but I had to get fancy with the laser. Basically you just need a hole in the middle that the insert threads into and then two holes equally spaced from the center with dowels of some sort.
I like to double hinge the ends with the first hinge about 3/4" from the end and then 1" space to the second hinge. Then equally space the hinges as you see fit on the rest. I mark the location with a sharpy and then use a hobby knife to cut a small V just the width of the marker. This will allow your drill bit to center on the mark that you made. Drill the holes, insert a hinge and work it back and forth to give it some clearance. Then test fit the control surface. On the rudder the lower hinges need to have blocks installed on the inside of the fuse for the hinges to glue into.
Then I started the hinging. For tonight I just got started and had to leave for the day but will pick it up this weekend. For hinges I bought a robart hinge pin jig and modified it with a piece of plywood. You can do this with a simple square but I had to get fancy with the laser. Basically you just need a hole in the middle that the insert threads into and then two holes equally spaced from the center with dowels of some sort.
I like to double hinge the ends with the first hinge about 3/4" from the end and then 1" space to the second hinge. Then equally space the hinges as you see fit on the rest. I mark the location with a sharpy and then use a hobby knife to cut a small V just the width of the marker. This will allow your drill bit to center on the mark that you made. Drill the holes, insert a hinge and work it back and forth to give it some clearance. Then test fit the control surface. On the rudder the lower hinges need to have blocks installed on the inside of the fuse for the hinges to glue into.
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