when do power distribution boards become necessary

[Super08]

I have several of them in use and have used them in some of my planes over the last 5 years. Not one failure to date.

 

[kevinjulieevan]

thanks for the input guys !

 

[-Rick-]

Thanks stangflyer! Why a flag switch? Safer? Or preference? And always two batteries with an extra for ignition? Or are these powerbox setups safer? or again preference...

 

[stangflyer]

-Rick-;5998 wrote: Thanks stangflyer! Why a flag switch? Safer? Or preference? And always two batteries with an extra for ignition? Or are these powerbox setups safer? or again preference...

Rick, Partially preference, partially design. Partially because they have been proven reliable and dependable. Just as much so as any switch on the market. "MOSTLY" because it is a very clean setup. I don't like "ANY" switches on my fuse dirtying up the looks and I don't like cutting holes in covering. I use an extra ignition battery. Most of the guys I think are doing the same thing. Some have gotten to the point they are trusting IBEC's. Eliminating the need for an ignition battery. Recently, my son and I discovered we can use the RCExel Opto Kill as an IBEC as well. With no modifications or alterations whatsoever. Works perfectly. Using two receiver batteries gives you redundancy which is far more reliable. Especially in larger setups that are using power hungry servos in extreme 3D setups. I would say that nearly all setups are personal preference of what makes each person feel confidant and what is "proven". I would never run any of my more expensive setups on just one battery now. One thing to keep in mind, (in my humble opinion), the cleaner and the more simple the system, the less there is to have go wrong. And lastly this is total 100% preference. When I am done flying for the day...canopy comes off for dismantle and transport to home. At that time, I simply disconnect my batts from my "Smart-Fly", remove the pin from the receptacle and pin is stored in plane. Batteries are isolated from electronics and ready for next charge. And I don't have to worry about the pin accidently being pulled, switches accidently being turned on...etc. Many of the guys do what they do, because it is proven and because it is preference. This works for me with no failures. "If it works, and it ain't broke", why change it... :smile-new:

 

[FerdinandK]

It is also possible to power the servos directly from the (one or two) batteries(s) and only plug the signal wires into the receiver. Of course I would always add an extra battery ignition (or to power the turbine). Also no switches and as few connectors as possible. The only switch is (are) battery.connector(s).



What is not in the plane cannot fail!



best regards

Ferdinand

 

[Lorne@pro-rc.ca]

I think the type of flying you do has some bearing.

A 50cc plane doing a snap pulls between 13-15 amps on hv setup with the large 3d control surfaces.

A 100cc setup with 7 control servos pulls between 20 -27 amps on a hard snap



Most standard recievers are rated for about 10 amps give or take 20 amps peek

Most power distribution are rated for about 20-25 amps cont (40-50 amp peek)

a jr plug is rated for about 5 amps give or take



I personally use the higher rated boards with deans or multiplex type connectors on any plane with 4 wing servos

 

[Lorne@pro-rc.ca]

If you do go with the matchbox and don't connect power directly to the servos I would at least run an extra capasitor on the receiver to take the amp spikes



I like the new smiley choices sleepy.:banana-dancing-with:untroubled:

 

[-Rick-]

I've been flying only 30cc size planes so far. I was going to skip 50cc size and go to 100cc size next. I got a lot to learn!!

 

[BalsaDust]

This has been informative so far for me. Right now the biggest thing I have is 30% so I will stick with just my reciever but if I ever build something requiring dual swervos on a rudder or on the ailerons I will be going with a power dis board.