X bus HELP PLEASE

[Off2fly]

Anybody understand how to set up servo's using xbus? If you can only program one servo at a time how do you get two on same surface tracking the same? The balance features would be null if running multiple servo's on a single channel? Thanks,Vann

 

[Joe Hunt]

Have to get @Tavis over here, he's the only guy I know running xbus.

 

[Off2fly]

Have to get @Tavis over here, he's the only guy I know running xbus.

Thanks Joe

 

[Tavis]

First make sure that you only have one servo converter pluged in if your setting up a new plane. You can only program one converter at a time as the factory default for the leads are assigned for throttle 1.

What I do when programing multiple servos with Xbus (one at a time) is unhook the ball link from the control horn on the servos I'm not programing since I cant get to the individual lead to unplug it inside of the wing. For example on a 3 servo wing I'll program the inboard servo and unhook the ball link .
Then hook up the ball link on the middle servo and program and unhook that link.
And the same for the last servo except I leave the link hooked up ...

Then hook all the ball links up and test the amp draw though the entire range of motion. I put the amp meter between the big Deans plug on the HDpower hub and the power cable lead coming out of the wing. I usually never pull over .25 of an amp at any given point though the range of motion (3 servos combined) mainly because I spend time during the mechanical linkage geometry phase to adjust the connecting rods and horn heights for matched throws (mechanically) first.

I do the same for any surface with ganged servos. With the exception of using an SWB self adjusting rudder tray with 3 servos. I just eyeball center and end points as I program each. then hook up the cable to the pulleys (all done outside the plane) and then drop that mug down in there and hook up the main pull pull cables. The pulleys "self adjust". Way better than the days of using hard links in a rudder tray.

Let me know if this helps.. If you have more questions I'll be glad to help

 

[Off2fly]

First make sure that you only have one servo converter pluged in if your setting up a new plane. You can only program one converter at a time as the factory default for the leads are assigned for throttle 1.

What I do when programing multiple servos with Xbus (one at a time) is unhook the ball link from the control horn on the servos I'm not programing since I cant get to the individual lead to unplug it inside of the wing. For example on a 3 servo wing I'll program the inboard servo and unhook the ball link .
Then hook up the ball link on the middle servo and program and unhook that link.
And the same for the last servo except I leave the link hooked up ...

Then hook all the ball links up and test the amp draw though the entire range of motion. I put the amp meter between the big Deans plug on the HDpower hub and the power cable lead coming out of the wing. I usually never pull over .25 of an amp at any given point though the range of motion (3 servos combined) mainly because I spend time during the mechanical linkage geometry phase to adjust the connecting rods and horn heights for matched throws (mechanically) first.

I do the same for any surface with ganged servos. With the exception of using an SWB self adjusting rudder tray with 3 servos. I just eyeball center and end points as I program each. then hook up the cable to the pulleys (all done outside the plane) and then drop that mug down in there and hook up the main pull pull cables. The pulleys "self adjust". Way better than the days of using hard links in a rudder tray.

Let me know if this helps.. If you have more questions I'll be glad to help

Tavis, thanks man, for your time. I figured out this morning that I could after setting address for each servo , I could go back into it and adjust each end point and center on each individual servo... Thought you could only have one plugged in at a time while programming, but that's just when setting address ID, me a little slow... I have a hard time getting them to track together on a pilot, I guess because once horns glued in , can't change geometry.... I don't think?? Thanks, Vann

 

[Tavis]

No problem man. I set the addresses with all 3 servos pluged in and installed ...with them unhooked from the control surface. Make sure they are all going the right direction and then hook a linkage up to one at a time while I program them down the row in other words to be short . All servos stay powered the entire time .

Some guys may elicit to mount the servo converter at the root of the wing were they can unplug individual servos instead of unhooking linkages as they program one by one. But I like to keep the servo wires coming off the converter short as possible to take advantage of carrying the current through the 14gage power cable as far into the wing as I can in favor of current efficiency .The converter is in the middle of each wing and the longest servo extensions I run are 12". So that's why I cant get to the individual servo leads to unplug them individually. Don't need to.

Yeah sounds like the holes don't line up on yours either. I've started shimming or trimming the phenolic style horns so that my ball link holes are all the same distance in height from the hinge line before I glue them in. And I pull them up tight in the direction of the bevel when I set them in glue too. Cant trust the manufacturer to have it all worked out. However I have noticed on the Extreme Flight plans they have worked this stuff out precisely.

 

[Off2fly]

No problem man. I set the addresses with all 3 servos pluged in and installed ...with them unhooked from the control surface. Make sure they are all going the right direction and then hook a linkage up to one at a time while I program them down the row in other words to be short . All servos stay powered the entire time .

Some guys may elicit to mount the servo converter at the root of the wing were they can unplug individual servos instead of unhooking linkages as they program one by one. But I like to keep the servo wires coming off the converter short as possible to take advantage of carrying the current through the 14gage power cable as far into the wing as I can in favor of current efficiency .The converter is in the middle of each wing and the longest servo extensions I run are 12". So that's why I cant get to the individual servo leads to unplug them individually. Don't need to.

Yeah sounds like the holes don't line up on yours either. I've started shimming or trimming the phenolic style horns so that my ball link holes are all the same distance in height from the hinge line before I glue them in. And I pull them up tight in the direction of the bevel when I set them in glue too. Cant trust the manufacturer to have it all worked out. However I have noticed on the Extreme Flight plans they have worked this stuff out precisely.

Yes sir, I try and do same thing, but like you said the framing is not always exact... But overall the quality is great.
Have you used the new nx series servos yet? I have 14 of them to rig a 50% 260, but I don't understand the alarm , stop, and delay fuctions in them and have seen no paperwork to explain how to use and set up.... I turned on the slow start feature but I can't see any difference with on or off.. To me the JR literature is very much lacking in my opinion....Thanks, Vann

 

[Joe Hunt]

However I have noticed on the Extreme Flight plans they have worked this stuff out precisely.

Plans? Did you mean to say Planes? Listen, if you're not going to be helpful...

 

[Off2fly]

LoL

 

[Tavis]

Plans? Did you mean to say Planes? Listen, if you're not going to be helpful...