• If you are new to GiantScaleNews.com, please register, introduce yourself, and make yourself at home.

    We're 1st in Giant Scale RC because we've got the best membership on the internet! Take a look around and don't forget to register to get all of the benefits of GSN membership!

    Welcome!

Scale 35% Krill Extra 330SC....CUSTOM-ARF!!!

Pistolera

HEY!..GET OUTTA MY TREE!
wesley. said
On the carbon arrow shafts are those all one size or can you get different diameters?  I know absolutely nothing about bows i like pulling a trigger! 
sf-laugh.gif
From what I've read on-line CF shafts run from 0.275" to 0.400".  The ones I used I just looked at in a sporting goods store and thought "that looks about right".  There is a whole science of CF arrow shaft stiffness, called "spine" that comes into play in archery.  I'm like you though, triggers I know! 
fist-pump-and-yes-smiley-emoticon.gif
 

Pistolera

HEY!..GET OUTTA MY TREE!
LATCHES – IDEA #1. Use these little cam-style fasteners that are common on assemble-yourself cabinets/etc., since I had a whole bag of spares left over from a home project.

The idea was to have the countersunk-head machine screw mounted in the canopy rail which would engage the locking cam (mounted in the fuse side) when closed. I made a mock-up and tacked into place in the Krill.

Although it did work fine, after a number of lock/unlock cycles the cam started showing some wear. It’s made of softer “pot” metal and is really not designed for lots of cycles. Also, even if it worked fine, I would still need to use a screwdriver to open the canopy….strike 2!

So…scrap that idea.
Open & Closed.jpg DSC00602.JPG DSC00596.jpg DSC00601.jpg
 
Last edited:

Pistolera

HEY!..GET OUTTA MY TREE!
LATCHES - IDEA #2. Then I discovered these very nicely made spring-loaded slide latches, and voila!

After locating the proper position and slotting the fuse for the latch levers, the slide latches where glued onto a light-ply shims, which were then glued inside the fuse.

I used some high-density polyethylene blocks for the locking pins to slide into. They’re held in place on the stock canopy tab with Hysol and a countersunk machine screw. The original screw holes in the fuse will be filled....the only things showing will be the two small slide catches....pull together (toward each other) to unlock.

The whole process was way more tedious than the hinging, but the final result is they lock very securely and require NO TOOLS to open or close the canopy!
fist-pump-and-yes-smiley-emoticon.gif

Alum latch.jpg DSC00679.JPG DSC00685.JPG DSC00688.jpg DSC00683.JPG
 
Last edited:

Ohio AV8TOR

Just Do It
Or linear driven actuator like this  
ID1IMAGE1392329569.
  from here

If you have a bell crank on the hinge pin that is connected to the canopy the 100mm travel unit should give you 90º of travel
 

Pistolera

HEY!..GET OUTTA MY TREE!
Ohio.AV8TOR said
Or linear driven actuator like this ....

If you have a bell crank on the hinge pin that is connected to the canopy the 100mm travel unit should give you 90º of travel
Neat stuff. If I had know about them earlier they would have been another option. However I'm done fiddling with the canopy....and besides....on the full scale the pilot has to manually unlatch and swing it open
dancing-chicken.gif


While we're still on the canopy, I found this great scale sliding canopy vent from www.itailies.com Now Mikey can get some fresh air while taixing....or let the heat out from the pipes under his ass!!!

Also made a little aluminum handle to assist opening the canopy
DSC00681.JPG
 
Last edited:

stangflyer

I like 'em "BIG"!
Really love the scoops on the side of the fuse and the canopy. The grab handle is very cool too.... Just curious, where did you get the spring loaded locking latches? I would like to get some for an upcoming project. They look to be very good quality.
 
Top