Scale 35% Krill Extra 330SC....CUSTOM-ARF!!!

[acerc]

By the way, "Really nice work"!

 

[Snoopy1]

Really nice work on the plane like the detail you are going into. Which I had the patience to that but it is nice to see it when done properly

 

[Pistolera]

Thanks fellows! Compared to military and many civilian planes, the opportunities for scale detail on a plane such as this Extra are slim, so i'm taking advantage of any that I can do!

On the issue of flex.....all of our planes flex in various directions depending on the load. My admittedly rudimentary flex test the of the Krill aileron really surprised me as to how stiff that structure is! The force I was applying would have easily twisted a built up and covered aileron far greater, possibly to its breaking point.

I plan on moving forward with only one (inboard) servo per aileron. I can always add the outboard at a later point if necessary....the internal servo mount in the wing and horn slots in the aileron will still be there. Will not be epoxying the horns in until the paint is done.

 

[Pistolera]

Ooops....double post! Oh well....here's a photo for Stang

 

[TonyHallo]

The aluminum fairing are really neat. What alloy did you use? 3003?

 

[Pistolera]

The aluminum fairing are really neat. What alloy did you use? 3003?

Not sure....just some I had in the drawer. Relatively soft though. They will get painted so a bit of body putty has smoothed out any imperfections.

 

[Pistolera]

Question for @Jetpainter ....or anyone with some good fiberglass painting experience. I will be using SEM self-etching primer over the fiberglass, then auto base-coat/clear coat paint. I've been finishing up the bodywork stuff by wet sanding with 320 grit. Should I go finer than 320? It feels and looks butter smooth at this point, but not sure here? If I go finer it starts to get a sheen, so it seems like I'd be loosing some "tooth"?

Thoughts???

 

[-Rick-]

Good question, I wonder about how much to sand for paint as well. I go down to 600 wet. Does that give paint enough to bite into?

 

[acerc]

Question for @Jetpainter ....or anyone with some good fiberglass painting experience. I will be using SEM self-etching primer over the fiberglass, then auto base-coat/clear coat paint. I've been finishing up the bodywork stuff by wet sanding with 320 grit. Should I go finer than 320? It feels and looks butter smooth at this point, but not sure here? If I go finer it starts to get a sheen, so it seems like I'd be loosing some "tooth"?

Thoughts???

A finer grit does give a sheen but it also gives more surface area for paint as it is more etched, just much finer scratches. And even though the 320 may look good a quality paint will show scratches. I would not use a quality paint without having sanded with at least 600-800grit.
You could do a test piece easily to see the effects of the 320 vs 600 or 800.
And self etching primer is actually meant for metal. It has a chemical reaction so as to stick, there are two type's I use, one for aluminum and another for iron based metals. There is a self etching one for resin but I have never used it as I like the high fill primer for fiberglass/resin.
I would like to close with, keep in mind "I am no jetpainter"!

 

[TonyHallo]

Back in the 70's when I worked in my dad's garage we sanded the filler with 40 grit, coat of primer, then glazing putty, sand with 80 grit, sand with 220, then 320, paint. Of course the paint was acrylic lacquer or acrylic enamel. Today when when painting models I sand with 220 then primer, finish sand with 320 then base coat clear coat.
I would also close with "I am no jetpainter"!