Scale 50cc Scratch Build From My Own Design Revisited
- Thread starter Jetpainter
- Start date
Jetpainter
640cc Uber Pimp
The pipe is a KS 1060. The header is stock length, but I don't remember the exact length. I ran this setup in a Aeroworks Extra with a Mejzlik 23 x 8.
Jetpainter
640cc Uber Pimp
There is more than one loose screw evolved in this project.Looking good!
But I wouldn't be able to sleep at night till I found that loose screw.
Jetpainter
640cc Uber Pimp
That should say "involved" not "evolved", but for some odd reason I can't edit my own posts anymore. The "Edit" button has disappeared.There is more than one loose screw evolved in this project.
Jetpainter
640cc Uber Pimp
Thanks!
Jetpainter
640cc Uber Pimp
I worked late last night so I didn't get much accomplished when I got home, but I did spend some time staring at it and have come to the conclusion that the receiver is way to close to the pipe. I'm going to need to raise it up some to get some gap between them. I think I'm also going to pull the pipe back out
and add some heat shield material between the pipe and the receiver. I'm probably going to use a product called Lava Shield. It's thin, self adhesive, and really works great as a heat barrier. I saw it on one of the car shows and recommended it to a friend because the canisters in his Carf Extra that were almost touching the wing tube. He wrapped it around the sleeve and so far it's worked great.
Getting the pipe out is kind of a project that I'm not looking forward to. You need to move the battery tray to get to the engine mount bolts, then remove the motor so you can weasel the pipe out. I'm going to try to unbolt the engine from the mounts so I don't have to mess with the battery tray, but with my luck the stand offs will turn and I'll need to move the batteries anyway.
and add some heat shield material between the pipe and the receiver. I'm probably going to use a product called Lava Shield. It's thin, self adhesive, and really works great as a heat barrier. I saw it on one of the car shows and recommended it to a friend because the canisters in his Carf Extra that were almost touching the wing tube. He wrapped it around the sleeve and so far it's worked great.Getting the pipe out is kind of a project that I'm not looking forward to. You need to move the battery tray to get to the engine mount bolts, then remove the motor so you can weasel the pipe out. I'm going to try to unbolt the engine from the mounts so I don't have to mess with the battery tray, but with my luck the stand offs will turn and I'll need to move the batteries anyway.
Snoopy1
640cc Uber Pimp
I have to agree with putting canisters in planes is convoluted and difficult. And the worst thing you have to do so many times to get it right.
This is my first time installing canisters into planes what distance or how much gap would you recommend there should be between the receiver and canister. Thanks.
This is my first time installing canisters into planes what distance or how much gap would you recommend there should be between the receiver and canister. Thanks.
Jetpainter
640cc Uber Pimp
It's not normally an issue with a canister because their so much shorter than a tuned pipe. A pipe can be three times as long as a canister so it can end up running right underneath where you would normally mount the receiver. If you have good airflow, a couple inch gap seems to work fine, but on this one I didn't have anywhere near that, and I'm not sure how the airflow is going to workout so I'm moving it for my own peace of mind.