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Scale RCM 1/3 Scale Champ Build

Discussion in 'Giant / Scale Scratch and Kit Build Threads' started by TonyHallo, Jan 5, 2019.

   
  1. Well I got the windshield mounted but decided to revise my mounting method, you know another prototype. What I have will work but it will be much better with a new windshield. Since new windshields are available from RCAIIR I have decided to order a new one. I have come too far to take a short cut now.
    By the way does anyone know what material is to seal the bottom of the windshield on the full scale? I looked through the Aircraft Spruce catalog but didn't see thing for this purpose. I'm going to the Super Cub.org site to see id I can't find anthing there.

    IMG_0939.JPG
     
    Stevendavis likes this.
  2. WMcNabb

    WMcNabb 150cc

    1,676
    3,410
    113
    TN, USA
    Found a service manual but didn’t see anything in it which would help on windshield installation.
    https://www.univair.com/content/partcatalog/7ASM-flipbook/mobile/index.html#p=COVER

    But I did find info at this link...
    https://www.shortwingpipers.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-7090.html

    One of the products recommended...
    https://www.bostik.com/us/Bostik-products/1100fs

    And check the first few pages of the LP Aero Plastics catalog...
    https://www.airtexinteriors.com/downloads/lpcat.pdf
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2020
    TonyHallo likes this.
  3. Thank you WMcNabb. I found it interesting reading.
    When I worked in my dad's auto repair shop years ago we called the 3M strip caulk "DumDum", roll it between your palms until soft then push it place.
    Another interesting fact I found is that LP Aero Plastics is located about 25 miles from my home located in the same town where my son is employed. You know their stuff is pricy since they show no pricing in their catalog. Going to have another look in the Aircraft Spruce catalog for tar tape now that I know what it is called, it has to be there, maybe I'll search their online catalog.
    The new windshield is $49 and once I get the shipping quote from Don at RCAIIR it will be on order. There is a lot of work to keep me busy in the meantime.
     
  4. Moved to rear of the plane. I plan to use the blanket method to cover the fuselage since the rudder leading edge just ends in an empty space between the two top stringers and there is a large open area between the top of the vertical fin and the top longeron. In the photo below the fabric will be attached to upper most crossmember on the vertical fin and the top longeron.
    IMG_2684.JPG

    I have never used this method before along with gluing the fabric together over open areas. According to Stewards a 1" overlap and 2" finish tape is all that is necessary to achieve full strength on a full scale. I'm sure a 1/2" or so overlap will work just fine here.
    I need to glue the rear aluminum stab support sleeve to the aluminum support plates and wanted to be sure the plates were positioned for a smooth transition of the fabric. I used some scrap fabric and covered this area with the blanket method. Two pieces were used jointed on the leading edge and covered with a 1" finish tape. I had to take the iron up to 300 f to get all the wrinkles out.

    IMG_0943.JPG
    In the photo below I wanted to practice putting the finish tape down on the transition between the top of the fuselage and the vertical fin. It took me several tries on a BUSA Super Cub previously while using Poly Brush. I laid the tape down on the centerline with a line of EcoBond and let it tack up. Then brushed EcoBond on the tape and the fabric underneath, once dry I used the rounded edge of the sealing iron at 200 f to joint the tape and fabric. Bias tape is what is needed here but not available in the Stits Lite line.
    Once everything was set and aligned the rear sleeve was epoxied to the support plates through the triangle openings at the rudder post. I have been dragging my feet doing this task, it took the better part of today but it is done now.

    IMG_0946.JPG
     
    AKNick, Stevendavis, -Rick- and 2 others like this.
  5. Cut and fit the windows today, not sure why I took the protective plastic off the rear windows. Does anyone out there know if PEG sheet will take dye? Would like to put a light green tint on the windows. There is a lot of glass in this plane.
    I think next I will put the wings on and make the aluminum covers for wing roots unless something better comes along.

    IMG_0948.JPG
     
  6. The wing roots were wrapped with masking tape 4 layers thick and Poly Fiber Super Fill was used to match the top of the fuselage to the wing roots. I wanted the fuselage root to be slightly proud of the wing root. The perimeter of the aluminum fairings will be wrapped vinyl electrical tape to protect the much like the photo below. 2177887.jpg IMG_0949.JPG
     
    AKNick, pawnshopmike and Stevendavis like this.
  7. Once cured, the Super Fill was sanded down to the top layer of tape before the wings were removed. Then the fairings were cut, fit and screwed in place. The new windshield is on the way so once the glass is fit the final two front fairing will be made.

    IMG_0957.JPG IMG_0960.JPG
     
  8. Been thinking about the lower windshield flange. Found the details of the Super Cub flange on the Super Cub Build site however there were no installation details. It appears that there are two mating halves that pinch the windshield that are riveted together, then the Piper tape is applied to the joint between the flange and boot cowl. The Champ on the other hand appears to have this flanged riveted or screwed to the boot cowl and the windshield is sealed to it. Found an interesting video from the 40's by Aeronca, factory tour that briefly showed the windshield being installed. The details of the Cub flange are shown in the pdf below.
    At any rate I decided to make a flange out of epoxy and glass cloth. The joint between the windshield and boot section was sealed with 1/4 fine line tape, then additional masking tape was applied to the joint. The approximate flange section was laid out and two coats of Partall covering film was applied. After dry the area was glassed with 3 layers of 6 ounce cloth, once cured this will get sanded and trimmed to size.

    IMG_0978.JPG
    One night while drinking a few beverages I made this fuel cap that fits into a fuel dot, this will be mounted on the center line between the windshield and cowl.
    IMG_0971 (1).JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  9. AKNick

    AKNick 640cc Uber Pimp

    2,550
    4,125
    113
    Alaska
    I've seen and done quite a few full scale window replacements. There is a LOT of different techniques. There does seem to be a trend of applying a strip of felt where on the inner surface (bonded to the frame) and then sealing the outer surface with two part sealant such as Proseal. I think the idea is to allow the window to slide into the pre-formed flanges easier. The forward glare shield and upper cap strip are either riveted or screwed in place. BUT I cannot say how the Champs were built. Pretty neat finding a factory reference like you did.
     
  10. The flange is complete as well as the the front fairings and fuel cap. Moving on to the front tubes inside the fuselage. IMG_0986.JPG
     
    WMcNabb, pawnshopmike and AKNick like this.
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