Wow, this is turning into more of a task than I first imagined. I am making progress though. Here are some photos and a simple explanation to each photo as I have been proceeding. First, the tools! A couple of dental picks, a fresh #11 blade in the xacto knife, trim tool and my sealing iron. I used my sealing iron set at just below medium heat to warm the covering on top of the front lip of the canopy. Just enough to warm the adhesive so that I could gently and ever so carefully lift the covering from the canopy lip. Then, using the trim tool, (also set to low heat) I seated the covering on the hatch around the parameter of the lip of the canopy. Gently pull it back to get it out of the way and wahlaa....
Once the forward edge of the covering was lifted from the lip of the canopy, I used my sealing iron to warm the exterior edges of the canopy where it is glued to the hatch frame. Inserting and sliding my xacto along the frame of the hatch made it really easy to lift the original canopy from the hatch.
I am now ready to remove the broken rear canopy support and clean that mating surface up. Then on to building the new support.
As mentioned earlier, I wanted to cut some clear plastic to fit over the instrument cluster. In hopes of giving the gauges a more defined look with more depth. I really don't think it makes much of a difference. What do you guys think? You can see the forward panel, (the one with 3w on it) is bare with no clear lens. The rear panel has the clear lens temporarily setting against it. Not too much of a difference. Can any of you see much of a difference?
Ok, now I have the rear support removed from the hatch frame. Time to build the new support.
Before going further, I wanted to iron back down the covering that lays on top of the canopy frame. It was showing some heat wrinkles. Figured now is a really good time to get that taken care of.
Now the parts fit and building. Not too much to this. Trial fit, glue, trim, sand. That is about it. I had to put a 45 degree angle on the bottom of the support to give it the right angle once glued into place.
And finished. The rear canopy support is now built, sanded and covered and ready to install.
Next, I will lay wax paper over the fuse and place the canopy into position, insert the canopy locks to hold it into place then install the support and tack glue it into place. After that, I should be ready to install the canopy and tape it to hold it while the RC 56 glue canopy glue cures. By the way, does anyone know if canopy glue goes bad? I have not used mine for some time...well, since the Jtec Pitts build. (Last winter) I hope it is still useable. More of the Behemoth Yak (2) canopy replace to come.