3D Viper-ST 100-120cc scratch build......it continues!

[Fibertech]

A lot of you have been asking when the Viper-ST would be available for purchase so I wanted to inform all that Terry's Viper-ST is know available for pre-orders. You can check Viper-ST out on our web www.fibertechnmore.com
We will start shipping around first of December.

 

[ericb]

There you go guys. Gotta getcha one of these.

 

[Terryscustom]

First Three kits ordered, I have included a CNC cut control horn kit FREE of charge!! I have already delivered these first three parts kits to Fibertech. http://www.fibertechnmore.com/index.php?crn=321&rn=975&action=show_detail

 

[Terryscustom]

I didn't get a lot done today on the Viper but I am ready to install my root ribs and tip stock tomorrow. I took a bit of time and shaped the stock I applied yesterday, sanded over the wings again and shaped the LE. One quick tip on sanding the LE and TE stock on the surfaces. I use a line of the el'cheapo making tape as a guide to ensure that I don't gouge into the sheeting with my planer while rough shaping the edge stock. I stop just before I get to the tape and sand the rest with a long sanding block with 100 grit sticky back paper.

The tape also helps if you have any bubbles of glue that break off, they don't ride under the sanding block and make huge gouges in your sheeting.

 

[tylerzx9r]

Oops, Terry asked for pictures of anyone trying the bagging process in his other thread, I got it confused with this one, He does such a great job on all of them, Sorry Terry! Here is what I wanted to post on this one, If Terry, and the Law are willing to take pics and post them of my first build, I would be fine with that! Showing all of you who are wondering..... is it really that simple? As stated in a post long ago on this forum, I have mostly been an ARF guy, If I can do this you can too! GET YOUR ORDER IN NOW... OR YOU"LL KICK YOURSELF LATER! Thanks Terry, Looking forward to my first full build!

 

[Terryscustom]

LOL, if I did not know better......I'd guess you are pretty pumped up. Thanks man, it'll be fun. Depending on how much chitty chat we have you will be surprised what we can hammer out in a weekend. LAW said she'd even help.....she must like you, she usually does not offer to help me during my builds

 

[ericb]

Let me know when you are doing it. I will come help.

 

[tylerzx9r]

LAW said she'd even help.....she must like you, she usually does not offer to help me during my builds

Maybe that is because she has to deal with you all the time? Thanks to Eric too, I will let you know after we get a date set!

 

[Terryscustom]

OK, had to take a few days off for work and holiday but hit it hard today.

So, it's time to install the belly pan. The sheeting was sanded staying a little ways away from all edges. First we need to cut out the hole for the landing gear plate. I use a straight edge and carefully find the middle of the flat area on the belly pan. Mark the center and then mark out the area to be cut out by measuring and drawing the outline with masking tape.

Start to cut the area out with a fresh hobby knife blade scoring several times until you have cut through the sheeting layer. Then cut with the knife at a steep angle to the surface to get the best cut. Fine tune the cutout with a sanding block.

***Now, the measure of a true craftsman is their ability to hide their mistakes. I learned this when learning to build furniture, but it completely follows through to airplane building. I managed to make my slot .05" or so off center. So I sanded more on the long side and added some 1/16" balsa to the other side of the gear box with CA.

Once you are happy with the fit, apply and smooth a bead of glue along the long edges of the fuse, on the back side of F-1 and around the landing gear box. I start by taping and "pulling" the belly pan against F-1. Next put 5-6 pieces of tape on each side working from side to side and pulling the belly an out flush with the fuse sides. Push the belly pan down hard and pull the tape tight. Follow up with a few more pieces as needed to securely hold it in place. Lastly put a couple of pieces across the gear plate area. Let dry.

Note: The back edges of the landing gear box will be slightly above the belly pan because of the curve of the belly pan, this will be address later just make sure that it is minimal and straight across the very bottom.

 

[Terryscustom]

Next there is a plate by the rear landing gear. For production models the rear of the belly pan will be 1/8" taller and 3/8" stock will be used. That also requires very little sanding will be blended into the plywood sides. This being the first test model with CNC cut foam it is just that......a test run, so I'm rolling with it and have installed a 1/4" plate. Same procedure is done. I put the plate on the fuse, drew the outline, and cut it to rough shape. Then I hollowed out the bottom since this plate serves no structural purpose. Then glue it in place and clamp as required.

The inside part of the belly pan that is basically garbage can be used to make one or more ribs to add strength to the belly pan. I like to do this because I hang planes from the ceiling in my garage when they are "out of rotation" for what's in the trailer. This is also nice for general handling and does in fact add some structural strength with no real weight penalty.

I use my miter saw and I like to put a 1-1.5" rib under the former that is directly under the front of the turtle deck. Install with non-hardening wood glue or a small amount of gorilla quick poly glue.