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30% OMP Extra 300 v2 Assembly

Capt.Roll

70cc twin V2
Seems like there is always “little things†that you like to do so your ARF is the way you want it.

Some other owners of this ARF posted on FG about the cowl being pretty thin, especially around the prop/spinner opening. I would agree as it seems that the cowl could be accidentally damaged. Since my manual choke access is on the left front side I took some 18g (very light stuff) glass cloth and reinforced (circled area) the forward cowl openings, the forward quarter top and bottom of the cowl and around the ply mounting ring. I didn't get a before/after weight of the cowl but the reinforcement didn't add much.

glass reinforced.jpg

The spark plug lead passes pretty close to the muffler so I didn't want excessive heat to start to degrade the plug wire. I took a short piece of high temperature hose and covered the plug wire to provide some heat shielding to the wire.

plug wire heat shield.jpg

I’m hoping the upper and lower cowl openings are large enough to provide adequate air flow over the engine for cooling. There is not an exit vent in the cowl to allow the air out. With a full length canister tunnel I’m sure the vent is supposed to be cut somewhere toward the rear of the tunnel. Since I’m not going to run a can/pipe I cut the covering out directly behind the firewall for my exit vent. To keep the air from going back into the fuse/tunnel I made and installed an air director to help route the air down and out of this exit. It’s painted to match the firewall and secured in place with two screws and a piece of tri-stock. It’s easy to remove should I need access to the something behind it.

air deflector test fit.jpg air deflector installed.jpg

The high and low needles on the EME60 are facing up on my install; having access to the needles with the cowl on and engine running when tuning the engine will be nice. I mounted a DA style fuel filler on top of the cowl directly over the H/L needles. The screwdriver guide is made from ¼†ply and two short pieces of CF tube. Haven’t tested the setup with the engine running but the guide tubes allow the screwdriver to drop right on top of the needles.

tuning needle access.jpg tuning needle guide.jpg

The rudder is removable on my Extra so there is a piece of piano wire that needs to be secured. I made a small bracket out of aluminum and fastened it to the CF tail wheel bracket using one of the existing mounting bolts. The aluminum bracket has a small slot cut in it that leads to a rubber grommet mounted in the middle of the bracket. The rudder hinge pin just pushes into the grommet; this also keeps any RF noise from being generated from metal to metal contact.

rudder hinge pin bracket.jpg

CG location is recommended at 6 – 7 inches from the leading edge at the wing root; this is basically right at/under the wing tube. The final layout of the on board components put me right around the 6 to 6.5 inch mark. Maiden flight and initial trim will be with this CG and then make any adjustments if needed.

on-board layout.jpg

Nothing really left to do before the maiden flight other than look at it sitting on the floor.......ha. A nice calm, warm day should be right around the corner now that spring is just a few weeks away. Probably check my control surface movements and rates one more time before taking it out for the first flight.
 

SnowDog

Moderator
Capt. those are some good ideas that you've shared here...really like the high/low speed needle adjustment setup you've got there.
Really enjoying learning from you in this thread...thanks.
 
A

abobo808813

your really gunna love this plane my buddy built one last year and i got to put 4 to 5 flights on it .
 

Capt.Roll

70cc twin V2
Wow........been a while since updating this thread. Plane is finished and the maiden flight was completed this weekend at the 3DHS Low FLI-IN hosted by the 114th RC Squadron in Grapevine, TX.

Had the Extra up for two flights on Friday, each less than 5 minutes. First flight was just a shake out and trim session but noticed there was some flutter during the flight on the ailerons. Landed the plane and checked over the linkage, control horns and hinges and they looked good, the servos had some gear slop but they did before the flight as well.

Took the Extra up for a second flight and the flutter seemed a little more noticeable, even had several other pilots notice it and they suggest that I land the plane before the problem gets worse. There is 0.125 to 0.1875 inch of play at the aileron trailing edge when the servo is powered up and centered.

When I got home Friday evening I removed the suspect servos and installed a SAVOX 1256TG on each aileron. First flight Saturday morning....................aileron flutter was gone.

I'm very please with the EME 60 as well. Starts easily, smooth low idle, plenty of power. I only have about 40 ounces through the engine at this point, just nothing negative to say about it right now.

BadBradGraphics cut the vinyl for me. Brad has done the graphics for both of my planes.......fast service, competitive pricing and he will work with you to develop exactly what you are looking for.

Left side of the Extra.

LF Extra 300 Vinyl1.jpg LR Extra 300 Vinyl1.jpg

Right side view.

RF Extra 300 Vinyl.jpg

Gotta throw in a little love for 3DRCFORUMS as well..............thanks Gyro.

3DRC Luv.jpg
 

hone

150cc
Looks great!

Looking forward to more updates. How are the flying characteristics? Pretty floaty? Would you say it is more precision or 3D oriented design?
 

Capt.Roll

70cc twin V2
In post #21 I show the use of some high temperature hose to help shield the HV spark plug wire from the heat of the Pitts muffler.

It was working as I thought it would but when I had the cowl off several weeks ago I noticed that the hose was starting to degrade where it had been touching the muffler. It wasn't completely burned through but the damage was two layers deep. I checked the plug wire and interior of the hose and could not see any problems but I started looking for something that may provide better protection.

HiTemp Hose.jpg HiTemp Hose 1.jpg

Good ol' McMaster-Carr. I found some THERMEEZ[SUP]TM[/SUP] ceramic fiber product. Purchased a short piece (2 ft.) of the 0.375 diameter sleeve, it has a max continuous service temp of 1100[SUP]o[/SUP]F; the melt point of the fiber is 2800[SUP]o[/SUP]F.

Ceramic Fiber Sleeve.jpg

Ideally you would want to install the sleeve on the HV plug wire before the plug cap is installed. Not wanting to mess with that I cut a 3-4 inch piece and then cut it length wise. Slipped that over the plug wire and then used zip ties to secure. This material is similar to fiberglass as it will fray and unravel unless you seal the cuts; I used thin CA.

Hopefully this will provide much better thermal shielding for the plug wire.
 
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