Snoopy1
640cc Uber Pimp
Used the same one on the Gaui with a starter and it work well.
3DHS 75" EDGE 540 V2 Assembly Thread
- Thread starter AKNick
- Start date
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
I am glad you posted this particular post. It reminded me I needed to get some advice from you fellas on a very good quality, ultra dependable ESC for the Kolm starter motor. You see, I am not able to read German/Austrian and the booklet that came with my 150 outlines a few things. I can make out 40 amp. simply because I can read 40. LOL..... I really see no point in spending 200 dollars for an ESC that will only drive the starter motor for short bursts now and then. But then again, I am not willing to compromise quality to purchase a 10 dollar HK special. Any of you have any suggestions for me? By the way....nice setup.
http://milehighrc.com/EME_E_Start.html
Seems like the $30 controller for an EME engine would work?
HobbyWing makes some cheap but good quality ESCs as well
http://milehighrc.com/ESC.htm
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
This is hard to capture a picture of. Crimping 20AWG wire and putting into the connectors. I did make some extensions, and even had to redo them for length but you get the idea. Here I am making a Y-harness for my power leads up to an XT-60 plug to my single Rx battery.
The crimper that I am using is $$, got it off ebay. It holds the connector in place so you can set the wire in and crimp it.
Here you can see after its been crimped, then I crimped the insulation with some pliers. Now you can see the high spot pooched out after the insulation crimp. 70% of the time that is why the connector wont go into the plug. To remedy that you make a small diagonal cut with flush cut pliers. the other 30% is usually one of the two crimps deformed the connector - just straiten it out.
Now were ready to press it into the connector.
The crimper that I am using is $$, got it off ebay. It holds the connector in place so you can set the wire in and crimp it.
Here you can see after its been crimped, then I crimped the insulation with some pliers. Now you can see the high spot pooched out after the insulation crimp. 70% of the time that is why the connector wont go into the plug. To remedy that you make a small diagonal cut with flush cut pliers. the other 30% is usually one of the two crimps deformed the connector - just straiten it out.
Now were ready to press it into the connector.
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
Putting large pics in so you can see what's going on. Shouldn't have to jam the connectors in, but most of the time they'll need to be persuaded to make it all the way in.
Inserted up to the insulation crimp.
Using Needle nose pliers to gentley wiggle and force them in a bit. with 20AWG and silicone wire this is the hardest part.
Went about as far as possible with the needle nose.
small standard electronics screwdriver will help a lot here.
99% in, just need to finish installing them with another tool...
Back end of an Xacto blade works well. My advise here is to push the connector up against something so the blade doesn't snap and enter your hand.
Final check is to see that the connector didn't warp during the process, is fully inserted, and is locked in place.
Inserted up to the insulation crimp.
Using Needle nose pliers to gentley wiggle and force them in a bit. with 20AWG and silicone wire this is the hardest part.
Went about as far as possible with the needle nose.
small standard electronics screwdriver will help a lot here.
99% in, just need to finish installing them with another tool...
Back end of an Xacto blade works well. My advise here is to push the connector up against something so the blade doesn't snap and enter your hand.
Final check is to see that the connector didn't warp during the process, is fully inserted, and is locked in place.
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
You can probably tell a couple things changed from the last picture.
I didn't like the strait rudder arm... too much slack. I got a couple angled double arms from pro modeler. The set screws were ridiculously loose, in fact one screw would push all the way through the threads. Wasn't too happy. Sent an e-mail to John with a video showing him what I ran into, haven't heard back in a while. I ended up drilling and tapping 4-40 threads and calling it good. I also had to add a washer under the arm on top of the splines because it sat a little low. Might end up buying different brand. It will work for now, most of the slack was taken up, but still far from perfect.
The other thing that changed was my own 3D printed Rx holder for my R7008SB. Instead of straps there is a bar that screws down over top of it. If you want one, just PM me and well figure something out. Takes me about 1 hour to print one by itself.
#60-80 Berkley fishing crimps for me, I despise the ones that come with the ARF. lol
I didn't like the strait rudder arm... too much slack. I got a couple angled double arms from pro modeler. The set screws were ridiculously loose, in fact one screw would push all the way through the threads. Wasn't too happy. Sent an e-mail to John with a video showing him what I ran into, haven't heard back in a while. I ended up drilling and tapping 4-40 threads and calling it good. I also had to add a washer under the arm on top of the splines because it sat a little low. Might end up buying different brand. It will work for now, most of the slack was taken up, but still far from perfect.
The other thing that changed was my own 3D printed Rx holder for my R7008SB. Instead of straps there is a bar that screws down over top of it. If you want one, just PM me and well figure something out. Takes me about 1 hour to print one by itself.
#60-80 Berkley fishing crimps for me, I despise the ones that come with the ARF. lol
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
I like your "Crimp Tool"......In my country it's customary to give the person the item they like. With that said...….I like your plane.
I was waiting for you to stop by and picked everything up, but you never showed, so I guess you decided to like it and leave it with me?
. That's correct. Like it and leave it. Just like the women in my country do me 
. 