after market ignition

[kork]

Should I stay with a DA ignition on a 60 or is there any advantage to switch to Rxcel?
I am need of a new one.

 

[Bartman]

not an expert on it Kork but I don't recall hearing any complaints about DA ignitions. why do you ask?

 

[kork]

I am getting a high speed miss I cant tune out.

 

[Bartman]

what have you done so far to try to get rid of it?

i'm thinking about what could cause that and coming up with
gap at hall sensor is too big
bad plug
weak ignition battery
ignition module getting hot
dirty contacts in ignition connectors (engine is probably pretty new though so maybe not)
ignition timing
engine is pulling air in fuel line somewhere
fuel restriction maybe (dirty filter in the line maybe?)

how bad is the miss and how often is it happening?

 

[Bartman]

i was just reading through the manual for your engine and figured i'd copy/paste this as it's good info for someone else surfing through

from the DA-60 user manual, Ignition System;

• When making electrical connections to the ignition system, use the same gauge wire (or larger) as used on the red and black power leads on the ignition module, all the way to the battery pack. Keep wire length to a minimum. Heavy-duty plugs, as supplied on the ignition, or as used on electric cars and planes, are recommended.
• We recommend mounting the ignition on high density foam padding with Velcro strapping. Do not use sticky back Velcro or foam tape to mount the module. This can cause the case to crack in the area where the tape adheres to the module and void the warranty.
• Use a high quality switch such as JR’s heavy-duty switch. Small size R/C receiver switches are not recommended.
• Isolate the charge circuit from the ignition while charging the batteries. In other words don’t “charge” the ignition module.
• Keep ignition components and wiring separated, as much as possible, from your receiver, receiver battery, servos, wiring and switches.
• Don’t use metal-to-metal linkages to operate the throttle.
• Use a 4.8 or 6 volt battery pack. The ignition can handle the higher peak voltage of these packs when fully charged. Higher voltage packs (Lithium, etc) can be used, but require a regulator. We recommend a regulator with a 5.5 or 6 volt output. Excessive voltage will damage the ignition system and will void the warranty. We recommend an1800 mAh or larger capacity pack. This size pack should be sufficient for 5 or more flights. If the voltage entering the ignition shows 5.0 volts or less, don’t fly, re-charge.
• When connecting the red pick-up sensor to the ignition module, make sure that the polarity of the wires entering the connectors is correct (Brown to brown, orange to orange)
• Unlike some ignitions, the Desert Aircraft ignition is designed to spark only when the prop is flipped at a high speed. If the prop is not turned over at "starting" speed, the ignition will not fire. This helps to prevent the motor from firing accidentally. Unless you are having problems starting the motor, don’t bother “testing” the ignition with the plug removed from the cylinder.
• When removing the spark plug caps, PULL STRAIGHT out on the caps. Do not pull on the shielded ignition wires and do not use pliers! To prevent radio interference, the spark plug caps must have the split retainer ring around the base to insure a tight fit. – DON’T FLY WITHOUT THEM!
• Protect the shielded plug wires from rubbing against fiberglass or sharp edges of wood or metal. Rubber grommets and plastic “spiral wrap” insulation from automotive or electronic supply stores work well. Holes in the braided shielding can emit R/F noise or loose connections (spark plug caps, connectors and switches).
• Timing is set at the factory and should not need adjustment. Contact Desert Aircraft if you have any questions regarding timing.
• Only use NGK CM-6 spark plugs. Other plugs may not fit the plug caps firmly.
• Plug gap is .018” to .020" (.38 to .50 mm)
• Never operate the ignition without a spark plug in the plug caps! This can permanently damage the ignition coil.
• Always perform a radio range check before flying. If there are “glitches”, DON’T FLY! Check for holes in the braided shielding, loose connections, or other radio issues .

 

[kork]

I have replaced everything.
tried brand new powersafe receiver
2 new tech aero's
switched from pulse lipos to taildrager 123
new plug
tightened the spring on the cap
The only thing left I will try this morning is direct 123 to the ignition.
I run the same set up in 2 other planes and have no problems.
It has to be the ignition, my guess
I just want my AW freestyle back... ug
wasted a whole day farting around at the field.
The reason I ask is the Rxcel are 50 bucks cheaper.

 

[jon595]

If I was to replace an ignition on a single cylinder I would use RCAME from RCEXTREMEPOWER.NET. Milton is extremely knowledgeable about ignitione and has the best prices. Worth a look.

 

[Bartman]

i don't see a product by the name of RCAME on that website

i always wondered why Milton didn't show up here at all

 

[RC Extreme Power]

I do come here from time to time.

My single ignitions are RCAME

I put my own labels on them with month and year sold so I can keep track of what I have sold and when sold.

Milton

 

[kork]

I guess I owe GSN members an apology.
I came out to the shop to try straight battery to ignition. I took off my plastic loom and walah....
I found my high speed miss and also my brown out/crash a month ago....
I will try replacing the boot but I think I still may want a new ignition.
I feel like MORON now